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JJ Yulo: Food Fanboy meets Alain Ducasse

JJ Yulo | Published: Feb 24, 2010 - 4:20pm


Alain Ducasse imparts his knowledge. Photo by Philippe Petit


I entered Enderun thinking only one thing: holy crap, this place is awesome! No wonder tuition here is steep–it really is quite impressive, and only a place as stunning as this would be a setting proper enough to present a man like Alain Ducasse to Manila.

I got a pretty interesting gig–the opportunity to see him up close and personal during his press conference for his lecture at Enderun. I have to say that as a food fanboy, it was akin to a basketball fan being face to face with Jawo. Anyone even vaguely interested in the culinary world has got to give props to him–he has certainly blazed a million trails for the propagation of excellent food.


Enderun Colleges at The Fort


Like seemingly everyone else in that room, I gazed upon his face in utmost admiration (in as much of a non-threatening and non-stalker way as I could muster, of course) like I probably would have on someone like, oh, Eddie Garcia. Truth be told, he reminded me more of a wizened professor than a chef. A staunch Frenchman, he grew up on a farm in the south of France surrounded by ducks and geese, so I can only surmise that he was practically raised on foie gras. Talk about kick starting your palate young, feasting on foie at the age when we were probably eating Gerber. Good food was always nearby, and that, plus his surroundings surely gave him the upper hand and shaped him into a chef that would win his first 3 Michelin stars by the age of 33. ("3 stars" is a rating from the much vaunted Michelin guide, a rating so powerful and that creates so much pressure to keep up your success that some chefs have been known to have meltdowns when stripped of it.) To date, he has 25 restaurants in 10 countries, and several Michelin stars under his belt.

No longer cooking in the kitchen, he now conceptualizes recipes, and more importantly, sniffs out talent and takes them under his wing, like the Jerry McGuire of the cooking world. After being trained and nurtured, they are set free to run restaurants (preferably his!).


Ducasse (center) at the Enderun press conference


Which may explain why he is here: his Alain Ducasse Foundation sends teams of chefs that have trained under him to schools like Enderun to elevate their culinary programs up to his standards. Young, budding chefs get one of the most sophisticated culinary educations available, and if they're good enough they start to train in some of the best restaurants and of course may eventually become one of Mr. Ducasse's new chefs. Imagine that: an army of cooks from all over the world–domination through food! At present, there are two Enderun kids now interning in his restaurant Le Jules Verne, which only happens to be located in the Eiffel Tower. Lucky bastards. We have been told they're having the time of their lives.

Apart from being here and giving his keynote speech, I'm guessing he's here to just soak everything in. This is a man, after all, who has a nose for seeking knowledge. After eating heaps of good ol' Pinoy cuisine, he will surely be sorting through our treasure trove of tropical fruit and produce. I wonder if someone will have enough cojones to sneak in a plate of balut?

It was very cool to find out that he is all about sourcing what is best locally, and doing the best he can with it–not very common here in Manila in this day and age of importing ingredients left and right. Wouldn't it be great for someone of this caliber to bring our food to the world's tables? I can't wait to eat at Le Jules Vern and order some adobo Ducasse. Someday, someday.




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  • migraine-ic Nov 17 2010 @ 11:58pm Report Abuse
    "At present, there are two Enderun kids now interning in his restaurant Le Jules Verne, which only happens to be located in the Eiffel Tower. Lucky bastards. We have been told they're having the time of their lives."rnrnLOL I feel you. I just enrolled for their post grad cert program. My interviewer even said that the ADF tie-up is what sets them apart from the mainstream culinary arts here. It's their alas. rnrnI really hope I'd be better so as to get accepted in any of Mr. Ducasse's restaurants.
  • xiaoluya Mar 02 2010 @ 11:44pm Report Abuse
    nice account of his holiness...i would be speechless too.
  • belscastro Mar 02 2010 @ 12:26pm Report Abuse
    @cyrene. Balut was offered to Chef Ducasse, and his two other chefs, Nicolas Navarro and Timothy Briggs. They didn't eat it but were very interested when I ate mine. It was a 10-day old balut which I meticulously dissected for them. Chef Briggs tried a bit of the yolk, found it alright...if not unremarkable.
  • ratatouille Feb 26 2010 @ 01:58am Report Abuse
    bakit magkano ba tuition sa enderun
  • igeramos Feb 26 2010 @ 01:00am Report Abuse
    Hello JJ, thank you for noticing my comment. I feel so honored. Food and culinary culture is so close to my heart that I would have to read the history of a certain recipe even before cooking it. I'm not a professional chef but I have oven scars and knife wounds due to my underdeveloped kitchen skills. I look forward to reading more of your Eat Log. Cheers.
  • Cyrene Feb 25 2010 @ 11:46pm Report Abuse
    Chef Alain Ducasse was given a balut. He didn't end-up eating it though. I know that he liked our sapin-sapin from the Suzy'z (SP?) of Pampanga Tibuk-tibuk fame among other things.
  • Mary Moon Feb 25 2010 @ 11:25pm Report Abuse
    can't wait to read about that in your next post! veg out!
  • JJ Yulo Feb 25 2010 @ 11:18pm Report Abuse
    hey igeramos.. glad you're informed about the slow food movement and making organic veg available to everyone. i totally agree with your points. these are things that my chefs drilled into my head back in culinary school in the states -- and i've always felt strongly about them. grabe.. daming issues.. hopefully i can write about some of them. it'll be a challenge for us, though, in the sense that our meats and stuff are just not up to snuff (and i won't even go into how they are handled and fed.. yikes..) but we can do what we can, and that should be a good start.
  • Daquiri Feb 25 2010 @ 07:39pm Report Abuse
    If you want fresh produce, then we have to stop people like Manny Villar and other developers like him from converting farm lands, hill sides and mountains into subdivisions. In a not distant future, we will see our countryside totally littered with subdivisions with houses built using substandard materials but price out of reach of ordinary folks.
  • igeramos Feb 25 2010 @ 01:58am Report Abuse
    I can smell the Slow Food phenomenon reaching the shores of Manila.

    The best restaurants in Europe source their ingredients within 5 kilometer radius. While in most Manila's fine-dining restaurants, the the farther the source of the ingredients the better and therefore more desirable.

    So each drop of imported olive oil, dusting of truffle, and a wedge of Manchego cheese is guilty of leaving a huge carbon footprint that has drastically altered our climate.

    Every time I order a plate of food containing all foreign ingredients, I feel like I contributed to the massive flooding that typhoon Ondoy generated.

    Food doesn't come from packet of noodles or cans of Maling. It comes from farms. If we continue to support imported produce and not support our local farmers, we will be like the Sudan and most countries in Sub-Saharan Africa. Because of natural and man-made disasters like drought, all their cherished traditional recipes gradually cease to exist, at worse vanished without trace.

    Why does it take a Ducasse telling us what is so blatantly obvious.

    And for god's sake, please make organic produce available for everyone.
  • Nigella Feb 24 2010 @ 10:24pm Report Abuse
    How lucky can you get!
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