I still remember the first time I went to Antonio's. Back then, I had never even given a thought of going to Tagaytay for a meal. Tagaytay was for drinking with buddies, or for stopping over on the way to the beach, or picnicking with chicks and flying kites.
If my memory serves me right, before Antonio's came along, it was just Sonya's Garden that offered something different, apart from the bulalo joints, the much-lamented Tom Sawyer's ribs and fried chicken outpost (our post-beach fave), Gourmet Café (too far for a salad bar) and the still standing, immortal Mushroom Burger. The turn onto the road leading to Antonio's was easy to miss, as it was far off from the main "strip", if you can call it that.. and the only signage was what looked like a little strip of plywood nailed to a tree. It was, and still is, a narrow, twisting thruway–adding to the mystique.
Entering the gate and into a dirt parking lot simply heightened the suspense. I remember thinking: Who is this fool, and why did he build this in the middle of nowhere in the fields and hills of Tagaytay? Ha. Let's see him survive in the long run...crazy bastard!
Of course, we all know how this story ends–I tasted the lusty, satisfying food their kitchen churned out and ate my words, my socks, my jocks, everything. This was no fool–not by a long shot. He was, and is, the real deal–and there is a reason why year in and year out his restaurant remains one of the Philippines' favorite eating establishments.
Fast forward to around two weeks ago, when I got invited to lunch (I love this gig, I tell you!) with Tony Boy Escalante and his wife Agnes. The dirt parking lot was now manicured and landscaped, with huge trees providing shade in the height of the summer sun, and flowers in full bloom providing colorful accents. They had expanded wisely, indeed.
Our little luncheon was set up for us to chat about their happy shiny new website–something he had to be cajoled into putting up. He does recognize, of course, that he has to keep up with the times, even if computers and technology are simply lost on him–so don't expect to find him on Facebook, Twitter or even Friendster. Until you tell him, he probably won't even know what a jejemon is. I have to tip my hat off to the team they put together–the site designers are web pioneers here, and their photographer is a "señor" (Bad ass, in other words. Shake his hand and be humbled, young 'uns.) They'll get their hits, for sure.
Behind the main area is another topic of conversation: the structure that will house their soon-to-be resurrected breakfast joint. The structure will be open everyday 'til 4 p.m. to serve brekkie, and then transform into a place to hold functions like weddings–big business for sure, this.
But to be perfectly honest, more than all that stuff, what really turned me on and made me randy was the rare opportunity to actually be able to break bread with this rather amazing Ilonggo gent who is notoriously shy of publicity–which I learned was one of the qualities I like the most about him. He is the epitome of humility, and of one who follows the beat of his own drum, a rare trait in this town know for people so hung up on titles and accolades.
Despite his so-called "shyness", he will initially strike you as a rather gregarious fellow, the quintessential host, a man who will shake your hand and give you a smile that makes it seem as if you've known him forever and, without missing a beat, will have drinks on the ready. All the better to loosen things up for a table of strangers. No gin bulag, vino kulafu, nor cheep beers over here, please–German biers and premium vodkas are his tipples of choice. After a sip or two, the ring of laughter–not only from him, but from guests as well–was adrift in the air, punctuated with moments of dead silence and soft, pleasure filled moaning once the food arrived.
Plates of fresh oysters (P300 for 8 pieces), baked oysters (P350 for 6 pieces) and steak Tartare (P700) arrived. It was around this time that Mr. Escalante started looking super pogi to me. I knew I was in for a crazy fun and deliciously good time. Only someone with guts will serve steak Tartare–a classic dish of ultra fresh raw beef chopped up, mixed with capers, onions, mustard, Worcestershire and other spices, and the occasional raw egg, and served with bread (the Koreans have a similar dish called Yuk Hoe)–because anything less than top quality beef will bite you in the ass for sure. This version was exemplary–one of the best I've tried, actually. It goes without saying that the fresh oysters made me hear ocean waves, and the baked ones (some done up Rockefeller style, with bacon and spinach, another topped with cheese and resting on angel hair) were rich and satisfying. All this and our meal hadn't really even begun yet.
