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10 Wishes for the Manila Restaurant Scene

JJ Yulo | Published: Jan 11, 2011 - 4:12pm

2010 was an interesting year for the restaurant scene, as you can probably attest to by now. Interest in the food world in general is at an all-time high, thanks to cable TV and publications, and a thousand and one culinary schools. All good, if you ask me—this only brings us one step closer to breaking through to the rest of the world as a great food destination. Here are some of my wishes for the year ahead:


1.  That celebrity chefs give a little more time to their restaurants. Manila is no stranger to the phenomenon of celebrity chef-dom. Faces of the “Who’s Who” of the restaurant world are splashed all over magazines, newspapers, TV commercials, and for the fortunate few, even their own TV shows. That’s great for them, because making good cash in a restaurant isn’t easy. It’s always a good idea to be looking for other forms of revenue. Here lies the problem. Their restaurants are their babies and the items on their menu, their creations. Often, it’ll be difficult to translate expectations to their kitchen crew, or at the very least it’ll be tricky to get the exact flavors the chef expects from the dish, especially if the food is alien to them (if you have a line cook from some tiny, remote corner of the Philippines, how would he know the real flavors of some complex sauce?). That’s why I think it’s imperative that the chefs check in on their line as often as they can to taste and make sure the food is what it’s supposed to taste like. I know, it’s easier said than done what with their busy schedules but that’s just it—I’ve been to restaurants of very competent chefs, and things just fall apart when they’re not there. Incidents like that sink reputations, no matter how capable they are.


2. The demise of blogger abuse. Blogging is God’s (and the internet’s) gift to free speech. You can say anything you want, describe your most intimate details, rant, curse, be lascivious, be emotional—you name it. It’s your right, and when taken seriously, it sometimes makes for compelling reading. However, I find the present state of food blogging, especially here in Manila, a bit disturbing. Why? I’ve heard dozens of stories from chefs and restaurants owners of bloggers who enter restaurants, introduce themselves as bloggers and then proceed to demand things—discounts, a free meal, etc.—simply because they are bloggers who may just write you a favorable review. If you don’t give in to their demands, they often cut you down indiscriminately on their blog. How this started, I’ll never know. That isn’t blogging; it’s extortion. This is also the main reason why I feel a bit queasy every time I’m addressed as a “blogger.” Running a restaurant, even a bad one, is a difficult proposition. Sure, call them out if your think there’s something wrong, or if the food is off, and if the service is bad. But be constructive, and be responsible. This is especially true for them fortunate bloggers who actually have a following. You have, in that creative brain of yours, a way to help restaurants improve. Bad reviews can cost precious jobs.


3. Support the food artisans. One of the things I do is take people on tours to centers of food culture, and not just to eat the good stuff, but to learn about them as well. One of the biggest observations I have is pretty common worldwide: there is a whole universe of artisan food producers out there—several generations deep—that make all sorts of goodies with specialized skills passed down to them that have the same problem: there’s no one to continue the business. The members of the younger generation have other plans, and making, say, excellent chicharon isn’t part of it. The sad news is, this means all these really old recipes will just be forgotten, which is not a good thing because these foods are also a part of who we are, our culture, and our identity. I actually have a secret wish that someone who takes our tours will be inspired to take up one of these fast-fading businesses and preserve its legacy. Perhaps restaurants can take them into their wings, and serve their concoctions on their menu? Who knows? My fingers are always crossed!

4. Fresh is best! We are all victims to mass-produced, industrialized food. Yes, it’s the food we grew up with, and it’s also the easiest to get and the most available, but it’s all full of crappy stuff and one of the reasons why people get sick. It’s time to at least try and eat better, not just for health’s sake, but also for us to realize that the freshest, best ingredients often make the best dishes, plain and simple. I, for one, want to start planting little things in my apartment, like herbs, perhaps. Though I’m no green thumb, apparently it’s much easier than I thought. I also recommend making friends with people who own small farms. Get great veggies and protein from them when budget allows. I know all this organic stuff can be a bit pricey but it really makes such a difference when you eat it, and your system will thank you for it. It would be great to see restaurants serving these kinds of products on their menu—a win-win situation for everyone, especially the customers!

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  • marianne Jan 21 2011 @ 02:53am Report Abuse
    Many good points, JJ. rnrn1. Thank you especially for mentioning artisanal products, a cause close to my heart and are rarely documented in the metro. I'm Bulakenya on my mom's side and we had a relative who made fantastic pastillas de l*ch* from carabao's milk sourced from San Miguel. It was exactly as you said - she taught the method to her children, but when she passed on no one took it up, and that knowledge is lost. rnrn2. Hope we will stop double-frying things so much - crispy kare-kare, crispy dinuguan, double-fried bagnet something or other. Many humble but delicious local vegetables and healthy dishes are being sidelined by artery-clogging Pinoy food we encourage tourists and balikbayans to consume. rnrn3. Many food blogs are the bane of the restaurant industry, but consider this. Just the other day I read that a blogger was being asked to sign a restaurant form that (a) requested review of the article online before publication and (b) threatened legal action if it was an unfavorable review - a contentious point - and published by the blogger without the restaurant's consent. (Flimsy lawsuits, but that's beside the point).rnrnThe boundaries between journalism and, for lack of a better word, "responsible" blogging are constantly shifting, but restaurants who co-opt the system I mentioned are not offering a viable solution. We're all in trouble if mainstream media (again) gets the idea they're missing out! Anyway - i think more food bloggers need to disclose their "transactions." rnrnEventually I expect restaurants to post signs at the door that read, "No blog reviews solicited." rnrnrnrn
  • takaw queen Jan 18 2011 @ 11:05am Report Abuse
    i'm not a food expert but the eggs benedict in Bizu was really good. i'm not sure if they still have it in their menu since they moved locations (next to nuvo) but i remember going back there several times for it!
  • bluepiranha Jan 14 2011 @ 04:56pm Report Abuse
    Very nice writeup JJ.rnrn#2 and #5 ring close to my heart, as my girlfriend and I have plans of making a foodie blog of our own within the year. It's just the culmination of a long-time hobby of ours, all in the name of enjoying locally prepared food we like and sharing it with other people.rnrnWe're all for promoting less well-known eating places, and we definitely will not ask for preferential treatment from the restaurants we visit. rnrnIn the end we're all just human beings, and even as customers of a restaurant, or as (incognito) food bloggers, we are still expected to maintain some degree of proper conduct. Being a food blogger doesn't excuse one from being what marketing people call a "jaycustomer." rnrnIf a food place serves great stuff at a good price, that's fulfillment for us right there. Writing and photographing about it and sharing it to others is only icing on the cake.rnrnBy the way, +1 on the search for a good breakfast place. :)
  • dig it Jan 13 2011 @ 11:14am Report Abuse
    I have a restaurant and while I have never been extorted (except by the city government), I have seen a number of awful food blogs. The traditional media already have a hard time applying journalistic standards such as fact-checking, interviewing all sides, writing good copy, and even proofreading for grammar and spelling mistakes. What more for the average blogger?rnrnTo be sure I think blogs are democratic and I have seen some well-written and fair blogs. I have no problem when bloggers describe their experiences at restaurants. They start to get into trouble though when they publish false statements (which could be easily checked if they asked), when attempts at wit and snarkiness just bomb and come out like a turd on your screen, or when they write with "expert" knowledge about something they truly don't understand.rnrnMario Batali may have said it best on this blog--rnhttp://ny.eater.com/archives/2007/06/why_i_hate_food.php
  • imaminta Jan 13 2011 @ 05:56am Report Abuse
    I agree. Abusive bloggers AND journalists are the double edged sword in the restaurant industry. They should pay heed to the French Proverb 'If you get free food, you can't criticize the chef'. rnAs for Celebrity chefs, they are not good trainers if the place falls apart when they are not there. Most of the 'Celebrity chefs' I have seen have not even worked in a professional kitchen yet. They are just posers. TO be able to run a professional kitchen, especially if they are not there, is a mark of a true chef.
  • chowhound manila Jan 12 2011 @ 04:45pm Report Abuse
    Spot on indeed JJ! My sentiments exactly(but,you already know that). May I add one more wish for those opening new restaurants this year to please concentrate more on serving better quality food with better quality ingredients vs.concentrating on cool interiors/exteriors. Also,looking forward to the day that all these 'extortionists' are exposed. Maybe, it's time for a group of restaurateurs to write the anti-blog :-D
  • cj Jan 12 2011 @ 02:02pm Report Abuse
    Well said, JJ! Especially on item number 2. Having people read what you write is a privilege that should not be abused.rnrnA lot of your wishes are my wishes too!
  • buta kakuni Jan 12 2011 @ 01:49pm Report Abuse
    Great to read that I'm not the only one that thinks that there are a lot of mediocre blogsites posing mediocre AWESOME food and restaurant reviews of sometimes also mediocre food. It is really time to go beyond mediocre which sadly is defining a lot of the food being served here now.
  • leon Jan 12 2011 @ 01:47pm Report Abuse
    i totally agree with what you said in number 1. we had dinner at one of your more famous chef's (afc) resto because of all the hype it's been getting and boy were we disappointed. the sad thing is they messed up a simple thing like rice... it'll take some time before we go back to the tablernrn
  • mike Jan 12 2011 @ 12:24pm Report Abuse
    im baased overseas and the only way i can get myself updated with manila food scene is thru blogs and articles via net. rnthere are ALOT of mediocre blogsite posing to be AWESOME but with VERY poor food and restaurant reviews and everything else is a complete photogallery with confusing captions.rni was in manila for over a week and must say we need MORE healthier and creative dish on menu!rnand more local produce- please!!!rn
  • cathy b Jan 12 2011 @ 11:13am Report Abuse
    Amen to breakfast place! It has also been my lonnnnggggg lost wish!
  • foodie Jan 12 2011 @ 10:27am Report Abuse
    nice JJ! although i have to say that not all Manila bloggers are as bad as you think, in fact i think MOST bloggers here are pretty tame, and sometimes too pleasant. Well, at least, those that I follow. Who are these extortionist bloggers ba?
  • bulag Jan 12 2011 @ 10:18am Report Abuse
    I am 34 years old with 20/20 vision - spot.ph, the font of this article is too small!
  • marj Jan 12 2011 @ 09:52am Report Abuse
    #1 That they finally realize that the customer is king. PERIOD. If a customer is satisfied, others will come. If one customer is unhappy, you lose ten customers.
  • restaurateur Jan 12 2011 @ 09:11am Report Abuse
    Spot on! You hit the nail right on the head without being nasty or abusive. I agree about abusive extortionist bloggers! The nerve! Many of them can't even complete one grammatical sentence. Grrrr....
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