New Restaurant Alert: Cevicheria at Bayani Road, Bonifacio Global City
A husband and wife team makes the perfect surf and turf pairing-sort of.
28 Bayani Road, Bonifacio Global City
Tel. No. 998-7274, 0917-850-8817
Open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Monday to Saturday)*
(SPOT.ph) Husband-and-wife team Patrick and Pia Roa only knew how to make two things-lechon kawali and kinilaw-but that didn’t stop them from pursuing their longtime dream to open a business. In 2012, they set up a small hole-in-the-wall on busy Bayani Road in Bonifacio Global City. Patricio’s, based on a pet name used by Patrick’s grandfather whenever he got into trouble, was a takeout shop with a solitary cocktail table for students, army men, and runners who needed a quick protein fix. Apart from their two specialties, they also served Lechon Macau and Poke, a raw Hawaiian salad, which they made with fresh tuna. Soon, they expanded both their menu and space.
The new restaurant, Patricio's Cevicheria, opened in December 2013 with more kinilaw and ceviche varieties integrated into the menu. Patrick has a fascination with cured fish and he goes to great lengths to find recipes from various provinces. The Kinilaw de Oro (P240), for example, has fresh chunks of tuna flown in from General Santos City mixed with thinly sliced red onion, ginger, red chili, and cucumber, before being cured with coco vinegar. Juice from a locally grown suwa (a smallish lime) adds a resounding zest, bringing vibrancy and brightness to the dish.
Kinilaw de Oro
The Binakhaw (P250), on the other hand, is less tangy, with strips of green mango to provide the zing. Crumbled chicharon that crown the dish lends a very welcome saltiness and crunchy texture.
Mango Wasabi Ceviche
The ceviche depends on what the fresh catch in the market is. During our visit, shrimp was the primary component of all their ceviches. The Aji Amarillo (P210) is composed of whole corn kernels, red onion, chopped parsley, and deseeded cherry tomatoes, all thrown in with deveined shrimps bathed in a lemon-lime marinade, then spiced with the yellow chili pepper flown in from Peru. The Rocoto (P210) is named after a plump pepper with a spice that pairs well with the sweetness of the orange juice. It’s a sneaky little thing-the heat creeps up last and develops as you continue with your meal.
Hawaiian Aji Poke
The clean taste of fresh tuna in the Hawaiian Aji Poke (P210) makes a huge difference in the dish. Without those salty overtones, you’re able to detect the mingling flavors of ginger, sesame seeds, nori, and their special soy-sesame oil dressing.
To appease the carnivores, Pia also offers her Chicharonnes (P230) and Lomo Saltado. The Chicharonnes features tender lechon kawali with crisp skin and perfectly seasoned meat while the Lomo Saltado is stir-fried beef on a bed of potatoes.
For something truly satisfying, pair Pia’s savory proteins with her husband’s zippy seafood for a surf and turf. If only everyone’s marriage was that delicious.
*Starting March 15, Patricio's will open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. and will serve healthy breakfast to cater to early risers.