Locavore's new menu kills all diets
The Garlic Baby Squid dish is the king of all squid dishes.
10 Brixton Street, Kapitolyo, Pasig City
Open from 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.
(SPOT.ph) Tinola. It’s never really anyone’s first choice soup. Maybe third—but that’s only after bulalo, all kinds of sinigang, and maybe just one notch above papaitan. It’s good, but in a soothing way, like you’d rather have it at home than order it in a restaurant.
The tinola at Locavore is a revelation. It’s one of their new dishes, and, like everything on Locavore’s menu, it’s a convincing argument for why there’s a special kind of enjoyment in eating Filipino food outside your house.
The Tinola Manok (P660) is served deconstructed. There’s a shallow bowl of clear soup, a steamed, boneless half chicken, and a trio of sauces—patis-calamansi, chili garlic, and ginger oil. It’s as if tinola and Hainanese chicken had a baby. You can set them up together for an incredible bite or you can appreciate each element individually. The soup will make you sit up and take notice. Instead of that subtle savor, this one is rich and deep, with even the malunggay becoming more pronounced, its leafy flavor embedded in every sip.
We don’t have to tell you that rice is as necessary at Locavore as bagoong is to mangga. This is a place where diets are hung at the door and workouts mean stretching the muscles of your stomach to make room for more—whether it's an oldie like the Sugpo con Mayonesa (P585) or the newcomer Chicken Relleno stuffed with chorizo and glazed with adobo sauce. Pro tip: Save some of the ginger oil for this dish, too.
Sugpo con Mayonesa
Nostalgia is dressed in bacon with the Bacon BBQ Skewers (P490). They’re big, juicy, reminiscent of old-school Pinoy barbecue where one stick and a cup of rice could tide you over. Portion size isn’t the issue and the seven skewers can ideally serve seven friends; that delectable sweetish glaze, however, will make you have more than a couple of sticks.
Bacon BBQ Skewers
Kanto BBQ Rib Fingers
It’s as if Locavore’s kitchen, headed by Chef Kel Zaguirre, doesn’t run out of ways to present flavor. The Kanto BBQ Rib Fingers (P490) will have you gnawing on the bones till you’re sure you’ve caught every sticky, yummy morsel of meat. Of course, it wouldn’t be Locavore without a touch of aligue—in the butter coating the fresh Baked Scallops (P500). With breadcrumbs on top, salt at the bottom, the delicate tone of this shellfish is amplified to maximum levels of flavor.
Pulutang Laman Dagat (P280)
Garlic Baby Squid
Extra rice is justified in the Garlic Baby Squid (P440), which is a dish that will probably end up blurry on your Instagram feed. The smell of garlic is hypnotizing, and looking at soft tender squid swimming in delicious oils with cloves of soft garlic is enough to make your mouths water. It takes a special kind of will power to resist. A third round of rice, please?
Locavore. It’s never disappointed us yet. And if they continue to create flavor bombs like this, we don’t think they ever will.
Photos by Sasha Lim Uy