This New Churros Spot Is More Than Just a Pretty Place
Here's where to get no-frills churros done really, really well.
G/F SM Mall of Asia, Ocean Drive, Mall of Asia Complex, Pasay City
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
(SPOT.ph) Perhaps the best things in life are also the simplest—note that we said “simplest,” not “easiest.” This thought applies to most things, like work and relationships, but we think the best demonstration of it can be found in food. While there’s a time and place for complex flavors and grand presentation, the everyday treat doesn’t need to possess these traits—they just have to be done well.
You can slap a couple of ingredients together, provided they’re good quality—often, though, good food entails strict methods. At Nuki, we learn the humble cup or basket of Churros (P95/three pieces, P190/six pieces, P250/12 pieces, P340/18 pieces) may not be so humble after all. When making the batter, the flour can’t be lumpy, the water has to be a certain temperature, and you can’t throw too much in or it’ll suck up the frying oil—which can’t be something fatty like olive oil, either, don’t get it twisted—and we know this sounds like a lot. But the results speak for themselves.
What you get for all that meticulous work is a long-lasting crunch, a clean taste, and soft spikes in the pattern of the churro. And “clean” doesn’t mean “boring,” either—you can eat about four full-length ones on your own and not wonder where the dip is. But the dips are there, and they’re glossy and globby and glorious: Tsokolate de Manila is a rich, bittersweet sauce of dark chocolate that keeps its sheen until you finish it, while Milk Chocolate is a good alternative for the true sweet tooth. It’s the Salted Caramel that’ll surprise you, though—it doesn’t have that biting, salty-saccharine quality you’d normally find in salted caramel. While that’s all well and good in some cases, it’s not necessarily the best dip—but this is. It’s a gentler taste, in a way…so you can eat so much more of it and not feel like you’ve betrayed your body.
Here’s the kicker: Their Gelato is something else. It’s not perfectly smooth, but it’s not quite textured either—the star of the show is really the natural intensity of the flavors. When they say Chocolate (P140/regular, P260/large), they mean it—and Strawberry (P180/regular, P350/large) delivers a fructose-enveloped tang that you thought you could only get from the fresh fruit. The Ube (P180/regular, P350/large) gelato almost feels like you’re tearing through a softened, sweetened, smoothed-out version of the root crop—in the best way. Though how it reads should come as no shock; they do mix and churn the stuff before your very eyes.
And if you love that, don’t skip on the Soft Serve (P99/regular, P199/large)—Cream is really the way to go, especially when you get the churros with it. You can fully appreciate these two desserts for what they are, and savor them like you’re in some hybrid fantasy land that has all the best parts of Spain and Italy mashed together; think of a good, old-fashioned siesta, under the Tuscan sun.
Our verdict? You may as well wave goodbye to the churros you enjoyed in the past. And although our local selection of gelato is expanding all the time, Nuki is where you go when you want the flavor to really hit you in the face. (In a good way, obviously.)
Photos by Hans Fausto