Taiwan Noodles in Makati Serves Good Noods, But Even Better Scallion Pancakes

(SPOT.ph) Is there anything better than waking up to the sound of rain? Oh, we know: a comforting bowl of warm, savory broth on a rainy day. Which could explain the droves showing up nightly at Taiwan Noodles these days, seeking comfort, shelter, and a bowl of their best-selling beef noodles. But there are other reasons why customers keep coming back: the restaurant offers a glimpse of Taiwan’s exciting food scene, as expressed in their hefty menu, and free milk tea.

We visited Taiwan Noodles one weekend, before the lunch rush. But even if we dropped in early, the place was already busy. Regulars with their cars were waiting it out on the street, and inside, the biggest table was already occupied by a jolly, noisy group. The al fresco section appeared like a nostalgic sepia photograph from a certain angle, thanks to the warm tone of the hanging lights. The scene felt straight out of a Taiwanese night market where everyone is busy digging into hot bowls and slurping noodles.

If you’re looking for something classic, clean, simple, and filling, their best-selling salty-savory Braised Beef Sukiyaki Ramen (PHP 428) might just hit the spot.

But if you’re a jaded trentahin looking for something a little more exciting, there are eleven ramen dishes to choose from.

We got to try their Traditional Lemon Shrimp Ramen (P528), whose elements were a bit similar to the classic Braised Beef Sukiyaki mentioned above: same medium-cooked noodles, crisp wood-ear mushrooms, a slice of carrot, onion, and leeks. But here, the distinctly sour citrus broth offered an entirely different experience, clearly unbothered by the notion that most Pinoys have a sweet-biased palate. Even compared to the more famous sour-leaning Asian broths (i.e., sinigang and tom yum), this one tasted gleefully fresh and new, coming in strong even before your first sip, thanks to its decidedly acidic lemony aroma.

For some extra protein to go with your noodles, we recommend a plate of Pork Gyoza, which has a chewy fried bottom. You can order it à la carte (P228) or as part of a gyoza and ramen set (PHP 398). You can also get a plate of sliced Taiwanese sausage (P148), but we found its better iteration was as part of the Taiwanese Sausage Fried Rice (P298), where it gets to impart its sweet-salty flavor into the rice for better balance.

Rachel Lamigo, the entrepreneur behind both Taiwan Noodles and Taiwan Kitchen, says they work closely with their Taiwanese chefs. "We combined our ideas and experiences to create dishes that stay true to authentic Taiwanese flavors," she tells Spot. "Beyond the food, every detail of our restaurant's ambiance was thoughtfully designed to make guests feel as if they were dining in Taiwan, creating an experience that reflects our passion for Taiwanese culture.”

Customers can see what Rachel means in the rough, lively, and tightly packed al-fresco area, tawny-lit and heavily scented. It's like stepping into a dollhouse version of a Raohe or Ningxia night market street. But what we found closest to the “Taiwanese experience” was the overwhelming giddiness we felt faced with so many choices—that moment you’re about to worm your way into a swarm of food stalls and you’re not quite sure which to pick first or where to start.

When Taiwan Noodles set its roots in the Philippines during the pandemic, its target market was clear from the get-go, and it has stubbornly stayed the course.  “Our original goal was to provide the kind of everyday meals commonly enjoyed by Taiwanese and Chinese communities. Over time, Filipino customers embraced the concept because of its authenticity, quality, and generous serving portions.”

Because Taiwan Noodles cooks with the non-Filipino palate in mind, it’s able to hit two birds at once: the homesick Taiwanese regular and the adventurous Filipino foodie. “Taiwanese customers often look for familiar flavors that remind them of home," Rachel says. "While Filipino customers are usually excited to discover something new.”

We made the trip to Taiwan Noodles half-hoping we'll discover a new bowl we could add to our ever-growing list of comfort foods. Instead, we found something else: the Overload Spring Onion Pancakes (P288). Oyster sauce-drizzled, flaky, chewy toasted dough embedded around bits and pieces of ham, bacon, egg, cheese, and basil.

It sounds like a typical breakfast combo, but coiled up together, and unraveling with every chew, so many textures and variations of umami sneak up on you, all tempered by that fragrant basil. At the end of the day, our Filipino taste for strong, bold flavors won out. The refreshing, cold, sweet, tall glass of Mango Orange Four Season (P198) was a good companion, and unofficial palate cleanser. We swear could have eaten more.

But all good things come to an end and our tummies can only take so much. Lucky for us there are plenty of reasons to come back: pages upon pages of yet-to-be-tasted dumplings, omelets, buns, pastries, shaved ice, and more, like beckoning night market corners still waiting to be explored. 

Taiwan Noodles is at 7476 Bagtikan Street, Village, Makati, 1203 Kalakhang Maynila. Open from 9 a.m. to 3 a.m. daily.

For more information, check out Taiwan Noodles' Facebook page.