Chef Miko Calo Serves Foie Gras With Santol, Divine Duck Breast at Newport World Pop-Up

(SPOT.ph) Whoever said food that’s easygoing can’t be treated with the same level of finesse and reverence for culinary tradition as its more decidedly luxe counterparts? Coquette, for one, aims to show us how it's done. The highly anticipated pop-up by Chef Miko Calo opens today, September 2 at Casa Buenas at Newport World Resorts, where it’ll be until November 29.

Having studied at the prestigious FERRANDI Paris and worked for the Joël Robuchon himself, Calo is best known for her French culinary chops that we saw in full swing at the now-closed Metronome. At Coquette however, she presents a more laid-back and playful side—one that relies less on hard rules, and more on natural curiosity and instinct. Still, ideas are executed with the reliance on proper technique and eye for detail Chef Miko’s long espoused. 

 “My goal for this pop-up really is to… make it casual and intimate,” Calo tells SPOT.ph. “I want people to share. Just come here and eat, share the food—there's no wrong or right way to eat things. We'll just make sure that the food that we send out is great.”

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Given her own background, Chef Miko naturally draws inspiration from French and Filipino cooking—go through the menu and you’ll find the likes of camembert, foie gras, and burro velouté alongside kabayawa (a citrus from Butuan, Calo’s hometown) and moringa, just to cite some examples. But the idea isn’t to limit herself to these cuisines. “I just wanted to really play around with flavors and the things that I've been thinking about,” Calo tells SPOT.ph.

You can go à la carte—a great option if you’re dining with companions. Their lineup is divided into cold appetizers, hot appetizers, substantial mains, sides, and desserts that are mostly good for passing around and sharing. 

There’s plenty to love in the starters department. The Shrimp Kinilaw (P400) is as rich as it is punchy from its marinade of the the aforementioned kabayawa, which imparts onto the mix its distinct fragrance and tang; tabon-tabon, a lesser-known local fruit traditionally used in kinilaw in certain parts of the Philippines, whose slight bitterness evens out the tang of the citrus; and creamy coconut to round out the mix. There’s the Pot de Foie Gras (P1,350) partnered with santol confiture—the stuff of heavens when slathered onto the toasts that keep the foie company. For the adventurous, the Sweet Bread Fricassée (P650) is your gal—come for the offal that’s uncommon in these parts but nothing short of buttery-rich; stay for the welcome umami boost from mushroom duxelles and conpoy (Chinese dried scallops).

The choices for mains are just as fun, in that they bring together familiar flavors and fresh, inspired combos, all grounded in the use of proper cooking techniques. Case in point: the Duck Breast (P1,400). The poultry here is aged in miso, which infuses it with a hint of natural umami; it’s then seared slowly over the pan, rendering the fat and leaving the skin glossy and a touch crisp. Pickled ampalaya and a sauce of foie gras, sugarcane vinegar gastrique, shallots, and toasted garlic bring piquancy and liver-y depth to the mix, amplifying the natural taste of the duck. 

There's more—Iberica Presa (P1,200) is lent a smoky-fruity profile by tamarind barbecue sauce and grilled eggplant, while the Lamb Saddle Confit (P2,500) is fittingly given a Morrocan-esque flavor profile with the addition of a date purée and maple-glazed carrots. If you were one of the lucky ones to catch Calo’s collaboration dinner with the late Margarita Forés last year, you’ll be happy to know that a variation of the pigeon with kamias caramel from the dinner can be had at Coquette, in the form of the Roasted Pigeon (P2,900). This being a casual endeavor, you're very welcome to pair these big plates with your carb of choice—there’s Rice (P575) that's laced with stewed tuna roe; Fried Bread (P200) which you can use to mop up their saucier numbers; and of course, Calo’s famous Potato Purée (P375) that's so insanely buttery it glides like silk on the tongue.

For the indecisive, Coquette will also be serving a five-course set menu (P4,500) with their best plates, the Kinilaw, Duck Breast, and Cloud Nine dessert included. And, should you be in the mood to celebrate, pours of bubbly from French-Filipina owned champagne house Champagne Florence Duchêne are there to keep your food company. 

Casa Buenas, with its 120-seater space, high ceilings, and ancestral Filipino motif, might appear ornate a setting in comparison to Calo's more casual vision for the pop-up. But once you’re done marveling at the Capiz shell-lined dividers and the striking butterfly chandelier, you can fully take in the place’s warmth—welcoming staff, easygoing atmosphere and all. It mirrors the food in many ways: elegant without trying too hard; nostalgic in some ways, but still full of surprises; and ultimately, easy to love.