June Eatery in BGC Serves the Pancake of Your Brunch Dreams and More

(SPOT.ph) Say what you will about BGC—and a lot has been said about it lately—but when something new opens, you’ve got to admit there’s an urge to peek through the windows. We’re all hungry little busybodies at the end of the day; when there’s that new-menu smell, we go a-sniffing.

Right off the bat, June Eatery has a warm, kind of old-world charm—you could almost swear you’re at the Grecian seaside, with sunshine bouncing off the grass and pavement of Burgos Circle Park and onto the Mykonos blue of the interiors. But it’s the bottles that line the walls that tell you where June really comes from.

This is the sister concept to Bibio, the wine bar in Poblacion now known for its popularity among chefs looking for a culinary playground. That’s also how co-owners Justin and Vanessa Apolonio got to know Kier Ibañez, the Cebu native whose accent now carries a tinge of Auckland, NZ—and whose imagination seems to know no limits.

At his side are chef Kevin Gonzalez and patissier Clar Abac, keeping the kitchen running when Ibanez has to be elsewhere. But it seems that the very tangible vibe of Euromaxxing and the platonic ideal of brunch is enough of a template to keep things on track—the ‘small plates’ are all generous, flavorful, and reminiscent (or predictive) of the best vacation you’ve ever been on.

We start with breakfast, as we all must; the Pancake (P400) here at June rides the line between French toast and souffle to an adventurous diner’s great satisfaction. There’s almost a crust to it, which breaks things up vis-a-vis texture. The spiced maple syrup also ensures that you’re not just getting sugary slop; there’s a warmth to the sweetness, with a little bright kick from what must be orange zest; whipped butter creates a rich, light roundness to your bite of pancake.

If you’re more of a savory person in the mornings, the Eggs & Toast (P350) is the plate for you—but this beats a country-club breakfast by miles. Herbaceous in a way that seems to open up the senses, the sumac-topped greens on a soft scramble might ruin eggs forever after; add a little more protein in the form of the peppery Pork and Fennel Sausage (P280).

Fans of Bibio will easily find the links in between as they migrate from one concept to the other; Ibañez did spend a relatively lengthy residency down at the Poblacion haunt, ‘free reign’ a mild term for how much he was able to experiment. But it did make the signature element of his cooking incredibly obvious. Some may think that being so identifiable is unfortunate, as surely each concept should have its own identity? But for the chefs and the owners alike, they’re all milestones on the same journey.

Also read: Meet the Cebuano Chef From NZ Who's Reawakening Poblacion Dining

For them, June is “brighter, breezier”—not a far cry from the rustic yet sophisticated din of its older sister, retaining much of that same coziness, and of course, carrying many of the same wines. “We got into wine because we like to eat,” says Vanessa. “It’s part of the leisure in eating—savoring it, taking your time.”

“It’s nothing too complicated,” adds Justin. “But I guess it can feel new because it’s Kier’s take on how normal ingredients can be elevated.”

We’re seeing a pattern; though it’s hard to rightly say that the bistro ever left the local dining scene, the resurgence of the more intimate, laissez-faire, and French-inspired way of lunching and brunching (and drinking) is more than notable. There’s a little bit of an old, pseudo-1970s sense of sophistication in a bistro, and the Chicken Burger (P450) here at June serves as an almost-throwback to thereabouts in time. The heavy stress is on the ‘almost,’ because Ibañez is going to do that sandwich his way regardless. It’s fresh, springy, and not too heavy on the mayo—because there has to be room for that decadent, peppery gravy.

But for those who really want to push the boat out, there's the Escabeche (P470)—poached, vinegary mussels served in olive oil and dollops of whipped cream, with homemade and generously salted potato chips for a delicate vessel. There's something so distinctly Kier about this particular dish that I don't think anyone who's ever had his food would trade for the world. His trademark balance of strong yet non-competing flavors and textures is, indeed, front and center.

And then there are the not-so-casual plates, specifically designed (or so one might think) to show off—and we’ll let them. The tender, flaky Skate Wing (based on market price) is served with a blanket of beurre blanc and brown butter, then topped with fried capers because why wouldn’t you? Order a side of Fries (P300) for fun and a Bitter Leaf Salad (P470) for a light kick of lemon vinaigrette and grana padano—and maybe so that people will believe you when you say you went out and had a balanced meal. (Bonus points for some wine; let’s say it counts as fruit.)

There’s also no missing the glistening display box of treats from when you first enter. From the Ferrero-inspired Frangipane to the Lemon Meringue Pie, there isn’t exactly a shortage of classic flavors—but if you want something a little out of the box, there’s the Chocolate Chip & Tahini Cookie. The coffee selection is an excellent companion to brunch or literally any of the desserts; the iced Mont Blanc (P280) for that touch of citrus and nutmeg goes well with the pie.

It’s not the most extensive menu in the world, but that’s the other thing that new restaurants seem to be picking up on. The fruits of years of both regimented training and near-unbridled experimentation on the part of Ibañez, plus the support of business partners who wouldn’t dream of placing unnecessary restrictions, absolutely shine in June. It’s got the best spotlight one could ask for, even—the sunbeams streaming in from the generous, airy windows.

I ask him if he meant to make an all-day girl-dinner joint; his eyes light up. “Exactly!” he says. “You’re my target market!”

Also read: Harry's Bistro Is a Tribute to the Things We Keep Coming Back To