Nasi Lemak Is the Star of This Low-Key Neighborhood Eatery in Makati

(SPOT.ph) Real talk: Indonesian cuisine doesn’t often get the love it deserves here in Metro Manila. Bold, aromatic, sweet, and notoriously (and sometimes violently) spicy, it’s a world away from the relative simplicity of Filipino food. Dishes like satay, beef rendang, and nasi goreng aren’t dishes that are an easy sell for your usual family dinner or even a get-together between friends—and that’s in contrast with the quick yeses you’ll get for dishes like pho and pad thai.

It doesn't help that Indonesian food isn’t easy to find. And that’s exactly how, in your search for it, you might just find yourself in the middle of quiet San Antonio in Makati, approaching a nondescript little building with a sign in Chinese characters. “Is this the right place?” you might think. Cars are speeding by: you’re along Kamagong, and everyone is headed to the Central Business District—everyone except the queue of delivery riders waiting patiently outside the building's glass doors.

This is Makan Dulu, the little restaurant that’s been boldly serving authentic Indonesian and Malaysian eats in San Antonio for five years now. Walk into their simple space, and their signage in Hanzi, lucky cats, and a small altar with incense might have you mistaking it for Chinese—but that’s only until you’re hit with the smell of lemongrass and chili.

“The philosophy behind our name is simple,” explains owner David Weng. “No matter what problems or stresses you are facing in life, remember to eat first—take a moment to pause, nourish yourself, and enjoy a good meal.”

For David, who actually hails from a Peranakan Chinese family in Indonesia, a good meal is the food he grew up with—dishes that he started exploring and learning in his own kitchen when he moved to the Philippines. He and his co-owner, Judith Tumimbo Manzano, originally ran a milk tea business in Cartimar, Pasay before the two began experimenting with Southeast Asian dishes. Makan Dulu emerged in its current form in 2021, the aftermath of the pandemic, where they began operating out of the food complex ARKIPELAGO along nearby Bagtikan Street. Eventually, they felt it was time to grow, and moved to their current spot along Kamagong.

“For a long time, we operated primarily as a takeout spot—not many people knew about our dine-in location,” says David. Their Grab Five-Star Eats plaque displayed proudly on their counter is a testament to the fact that they’ve become very good at. “We wouldn't have made it through without the unwavering support of our loyal customers and our incredible staff, who have stood by us through thick and thin.”

That loyalty isn’t for nothing: the restaurant is dedicated to real-deal Indonesian and Malaysian comfort food, and everything from the menu to the vintage look of the space itself is meant to evoke nostalgia. In fact, the Chinese name of the restaurant is “Nàxiē nián,” roughly translating to “a taste of the past.”

“It’s meant for people living far from home who rarely get to return,and naturally miss home-cooked meals,” David explains. “That feeling of nostalgia and comfort is exactly what we want our restaurant to evoke.”

You could even catch snatches of Bahasa from other customers—many of whom are Indonesian and Malaysian professionals living and working in Metro Manila. And a phrase you might hear in their conversation is the name of the restaurant itself, because “makan dulu” in Indonesian translates to “kain muna” in Filipino.

If there is one universal truth about Makan Dulu, it is that they make one hell of a nasi lemak. For the uninitiated, that’s rice cooked in gata and pandan leaf, then served with fried anchovies, peanuts, an egg, some sambal, and your choice of protein. It sounds simple—because it is, but you’ll know Makan Dulu’s take is special the moment it comes out of the kitchen and you get a whiff of bright spices and almost-floral coconut, their mouthwatering fragrance cranked up to the max.

“The recipe actually comes from my mother,” explains David. “She is an amazing home cook, and to this day, whenever I cook, I still consult her for advice and feedback. Getting her approval gives me the extra confidence I need in the kitchen!”

Makan Dulu’s menu has an entire page dedicated to their mama-approved nasi lemak, a huge portion of it served with a trigger-happy sambal and viands ranging from spicy shrimp and squid to chicken curry. However, you’ll never go wrong with their take on the most classic version of the dish: Nasi Lemak Ayam (P250), featuring a heavily-spiced (take note: different from spicy) and lightly sweet Indonesian-style fried chicken.

If you’re really looking to push the pedal to the metal on flavor, however, one extra word makes all the difference. Their Nasi Lemak Ayam Bumbu (P290) goes the extra mile of marinating the chicken for hours and pre-boiling it in an intense spice broth (bumbu) before sticking it in the fryer until it comes out crispy and bombastically savory to the very bone. It’s an especially excellent contrast to their nasi lemak’s fluffy texture and creamier flavor.

You’ll find plenty of other gems on this menu served with “plain” rice that’s still more fragrant than you’ll find in most restaurants. Their Nasi Ayam Rendang (P280) makes a case for the rich, dry curry beyond its usual match-up with beef. Bone-in chicken is coated in that rich and aromatic sticky sauce, which has a nice touch of sweetness to go with the toasty coconut flavor it’s known for.

That’s not to say that rice is all there is to Makan Dulu, though. You’ll find plenty of classic fried noodle dishes too, though one that tugs at the heartstrings of many Indonesian expats missing home is their Indomie Goreng (P220)—essentially, a jazzed up version of Indonesia’s sweeter and spicier equivalent of our instant Pancit Canton. Makan Dulu’s version comes with vegetables and a fried egg. It’s simple, will go with pretty much anything else you order, and is probably one of the mildest dishes on the entire menu.

That’s something you can adjust by also ordering a dish hellbent on raising your entire body’s temperature in seconds. The Sotong Sambal (P320) is one that fits the bill, where tender bites of squid swim in a diabolical blend of fresh chilis. The seeds are impossible to miss. And yet, it keeps in just enough sweetness to cling on to as your face heats up and steam starts coming out of your ears—and yet alas, this writer still found herself reaching for spoon after spoon of that addicting heat anyway.

The rest of Makan Dulu’s menu spans many different Indonesian and Malaysian specialties, ranging from classics like kaya toast and satay to all-out rarities here like bakwan goreng, one of Indonesia’s most popular deep-fried street snacks. That’s not even to mention how they regularly put out specials featuring even more uncommon dishes like rempah udang sticky rice and comforting nasi ramesan ayam.

All of these aren’t just made with plenty of spice, but also with a lot of heart—something that definitely isn’t lost on the growing number of people who’ve come to visit, from the neighborhood and beyond. Beyond spice and spiciness, their approach to the comforts of Indonesian cuisine is what makes it so much easier to enjoy.

“Lately, we’ve been thrilled to see more locals, Filipinos who discover our address or hear about us, making the trip just to try our food,” says David. “Ultimately, my hope is simply to share the authentic flavors of Indonesian and Malaysian cuisine here in the Philippines, and I truly hope everyone enjoys them as much as we love making them.”

Makan Dulu is located at 9482 Anubing Street corner Kamagong, San Antonio, Makati. Open Mondays to Fridays, from 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., and Saturdays and Sundays, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. For more information, visit Makan Dulu’s official Facebook and Instagram pages.