Marikina's Lola Helen Panciteria A Little Extra Busy After Landing in Michelin Guide

(SPOT.ph) October 31st is usually a busy day at Lola Helen’s Panciteria. Being in close proximity to Marikina’s Loyola Memorial Park, the two-level eatery is a favorite stop for those visiting their dead, either to dine in and share a plate of Bihon Con Litson and Lumpiang Shanghai (P200 for 15 pieces!) or pick up an order of Fried Chicken and Miki Bihon Con Litson to bring to the cemetery.

But this particular October 31st, says restaurant manager Bon de Guzman, is busier than usual. “Ubos na” is heard not a few times from the servers’ mouths over the course of waiting for our plate of bihon and Coca-cola. Why the extra busy-ness?

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The night before, the 20-year-old Lola Helen’s Panciteria found itself included in the list of Michelin Selected Restaurants by the Michelin Guide, the group who has been giving away awards and citations to the world’s most excellent restaurants for 125 years now. For  the first time, it gave away recognitions in the Philippines and decided to honor this humble operation near the corner of Marikina’s busy A. Bonifacio Avenue and J.P. Rizal Streets. That’s why all of a sudden, the pancit spot saw itself right smack among Manila’s snazzy dining haunts like Lusso, Antonio’s, and the Peninsula Manila’s Spices and Old Manila.

There are many pancitans in Marikina but Lola Helen’s is arguably the most popular. Its Michelin Guide entry describes the establishment as a spot for noodle lovers and is “known for Filipino-Chinese stir-fried noodles.” It serves bihon, canton, miki bihon, lomi and Sotanghon. “With its moist, springy noodles and crispy pork, the aromatic bihon canton con litson deeply satisfies. Generous portions, fair prices, and a well-ventilated upstairs area – make it a constant favourite among locals.”

True enough, the Bihon con Litson is very satisfying, and an order can already be shared by two to three people. We consume our pancit on the second floor where there are seven tables, each of which are occupied by diners who seem to be already familiar with the place. The downstairs area has even less tables— maybe just two— the rest of the space is dedicated to those waiting for their orders.

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The order station is manned by Bon who is helped by three ladies dispatching food in labeled brown paper bags. Behind Bon, more hands busily prepare pancit, lumpia, chopsuey coming out of the kitchen (which we don’t see). Today, Bon says it’s the lumpia and fried chicken that ran out early. Outside, customers wait on two rows of Monobloc chairs. A couple of nerdy looking girls wait in line and one of them says, “Kasalanan Ito ni Michelin eh.”

Bon is the son of Ruben and Pacita de Guzman who founded the family business in the mid 2000s. Between the two, it is Ruben who is the true blooded Marikeño having been born and raised in the city, specifically in Barangay Sto. Niño. They named Lola Helen Panciteria after his mother. “Noong una hindi kami makapaniwala, kaming dalawa ng kapatid ko,” says Bon who has been managing the business since the pandemic. “Totoo ba to? Hanggang sa tsinek niya na nga yung Michelin Guide at nakasulat na nga doon,” adds Bon, spoken with the kind of modesty that is very much a part of his panciteria's charm.

Lola Helen Panciteria is located at 425 J.P. Rizal Street, Marikina City. For orders, call 0927-547-0111