At Sabi Sounds in Makati, the Bar Chow Could Turn into Dinner

(SPOT.ph) If your feeds and timelines have you feeling like maybe Australia is calling your name, you’re not alone–if anything, it’s surprising that we’re just now really connecting with our Pacific neighbors. The Filipino community down under is only expanding, and they’re not content to keep it to Victoria or New South Wales; they want, maybe more than anything, to bring what they’ve learned home.

Sabi Sounds is one such product of the Fil-Aussie community (Melbourne, to be exact), and a testament to how much one can gain if one’s intention is to give. At face value, it’s a little hodgepodge–coffee, cocktails, bar chow, and vinyl, and a wild selection of gelato up in front courtesy of Kariton to boot–but what you get is a place that can take you from day to night without feeling one-note in the slightest.

The secret to that is simpler than one might think. There are a lot of concepts that struggle with demonstrating both versatility and their unique selling points—or, worse, make versatility the selling point—but Sabi doesn't seem to be familiar with that particular obstacle. The vibe is not quite 'something for the whole family,' but it's not gatekeep-y, either. Hear us out: there's a warm nonchalance to this Salcedo watering hole, almost like that of a friend's cat when you've visited their apartment a few times—you're definitely welcome here, even if you don't really know what's going on.

Maybe it’s easiest to start with the food–yes, before the drinks, because one thing we’re not going to do around here is overlook or excuse a menu just because we’re a little under the influence. Sabi Sounds certainly did not.

Tacos are not an unusual find at a bar, and these don’t seem to be aiming for anything particularly out there–but the Corn Tostadas (P400 each) are very good. Charred corn and generous amounts of cheese and yuzu mayo make for something salty, sweet, smoky, and definitely not lacking in texture. It goes perfectly with the lychee-laced Heart of Glass (P580) cocktail, but then again, nearly everything seems to; this is not a glass to miss.

But if you are looking for something a little different, the White Anchovy (P280) might be for you. We can almost guarantee you’ve never had boquerones quite like this, but if you’re not familiar, here’s the breakdown: ‘anchovy’ doesn’t always equate to the hyper-umami sliver of melting, rust-red fish on top of pizza. Sometimes, it’s a meaty little fillet that’s a little briny with a touch of vinegar; here, it’s served on a salty-sweet Bin Bin rice cracker, which you’d expect more out of the Asian aisle of the supermarket than a Fil-Aussie cafe-bar. We truly are in the 21st century.

You wouldn’t expect to find nor love a salad at a bar either, but the Garden Plate (P350) shows that Sabi is happy to prove us wrong at every turn. Charred zucchini, green beans, and a tangy labneh (think of a hybrid of yogurt and cheese if you’ve not yet been acquainted) don’t ‘give vegetable’ as some might say; it’s smoky, crunchy, and a great time with the pandan-lemon goodness of the unfortunately named Porn Star Martini (P580). We’d dare you to ask the bar for the backstory, but be prepared for a doozy of an answer–don’t say you weren’t warned.

Heavier bites like the savory Ebi Toast (P470) or lightly spicy Potato Marbles (P380) don’t feel out of place, although that’s likely also thanks to the versatility of the place itself. These particular plates are great for sharing, but the reality of it is that you probably won’t want to.

But what will almost guarantee multiple returns–apart from there being so much going on over here on seemingly any given day–is the creativity. From mocktails like the Halukay Ube (P320) to almost-meals like the satisfying Cacio e Pepe Yakisoba (P400), there’s little to be bored by. Plus, the background sounds are pretty hard to disagree with.

And like we said,, dessert here happens upfront if you want it; it’s literally right at the door when you first enter. The flavors we got to try matter very little, since they change it out according to what’s in season. You may already be familiar with Kariton Gelato, also a Melbourne concept that thrived in the transplant.

“Obviously, we’re not here to try and tell this market what’s good and what isn’t,” says partner Michael Tan. “There’s an existing listening and dining culture [in Salcedo] and we’re more interested in supporting it rather than competing with it. As much as we have a concept we want to stick with, I think it pays off that we let the culture inform how we operate.”

“It’s not so much our two cents as it is like our dish at the potluck, you know?” says Eleena Tan, co-owner of Sabi Sounds. “It’s very multifaceted, but we’re not trying to be everything to everyone… more like making sure all types can find something they like, which creates the opportunity for community.”

It is that bit of us Filipinos that finds itself everywhere we go–that inventiveness that invites others in almost without question. Sabi Sounds is one of those rare cases wherein that hospitality finds its way home and feels like it’s always been here.