Bigger and Better Scratch Has Makati Lining Up Even Before Breakfast

(SPOT.ph) Once tucked away at the third floor of Comuna in Makati, Scratch is one of those dining spots whose reputation truly preceded it, long before it ever became a ‘proper’ restaurant. For the uninitiated, the commissary-turned-brunch haven (and back again, now that the dining space has moved to Aguirre Street) was a pandemic hobby that got a little out of hand until it didn’t. 

It really all started with a former finance guy, a loaf of bread, and an entrepreneurial young woman who wouldn’t take ‘no’ for an answer.

“I think the term used to describe us before was ‘micro-bakery,’” says ex-finance guy in question, Ralph Sy. “I wanted to start small talaga. But I guess the brunch crowd had other plans.”

The now-notorious Mortadella (P680) sandwich was a relatively early propeller to internet fame, which ended up being a double-edged sword in a big way. They gave me a generous sneak peek of it in the summer of 2024, when it was still a tentative addition to the chalkboard menu that was constantly switching up at the time. What I experienced was airy focaccia, thick ribbons of the pistachio-dotted cured pork, and a great blend of texture and flavor in the form of pesto plunging itself through rich ricotta cheese—which is why the bewilderment (and at times outright hatred) surrounding the sandwich online was confusing to me.

“We had switched suppliers for mortadella, but it wasn’t really a surprise that people noticed… more that people had such strong feelings,” notes Ralph. “We switched to another one not too long after that.”

“It was still data,” says co-owner Charlene Ng. “Whether we were conscious of it or not, it was a sign of things to come and it prepared us."

Today, you can enjoy the best version of the sandwich just over three kilometers away from where Scratch got its start. Their new outpost—or what you can see of it behind the lines forming at 7 a.m. despite a much later opening time—has the same rustic-industrial feel, but much more room.

“Taking the concept and turning it into a tangible space and experience for [a wider customer base] has been incredibly rewarding,” adds Charlene.

We’re still able to get our old favorites, like the Turkish Eggs (P440), a runny delight on house yogurt with chili butter, an assortment of leafy herbs, and the famous Scratch sourdough, which you’ve probably also had in other restaurants in the Makati area. Of course, the beef and pork Meatballs (P560) are a must, slathered in tangy tomato sauce and creamy ricotta, and these days paired with soak-it-all-up focaccia.

The move to Aguirre Street is no mere transplant, of course. “The food has grown with us, too,” says Ralph. “Having a bigger kitchen and better equipment has allowed us to be more ambitious with what we make—we’ve never moved away from our belief in making stuff from scratch. That level of craftsmanship is rewarding… but it also makes operations on the whole much more demanding.”

Said craftsmanship is obvious in items like the Salami (P440) sandwich, which had a funny start. Beyond being aesthetically pleasing, it is the work of multiple fridge raids, according to Charlene. “I slapped it together and had it for enough late nights that I ended up pitching it to Ralph,” she shares. The pretzel sandwich does indeed hold up to scrutiny—the knotted pastry is pliable enough for a comfortable bite with some resistance, and the intense saltiness of the salami is softened by the hot honey. For a welcome funky kick, there’s a liberal smear of whipped goat cheese, and we beg you not to knock it until you’ve tried it.

But it turns out the co-owner is really more of a Granola (P320) girl at heart. Seasonal fruit brings color to what would otherwise be a slab of white yogurt in a bowl, but not too far down is a sesame-forward granola with a hint of deep vanilla sweetness. You may think it’s a Pilates princess breakfast (and you’re not far off, we’ll give you that), but you’ll never quite convince us that that’s a bad thing. “It’s light,” says Charlene, “but it doesn’t leave you wanting.” There’s a similar energy to the Mushroom Toast (P480), an earthy, fragrant thing that almost resembles the layers of the forest floor from which the confited mushrooms might have been harvested. (We, uh, can’t actually say that for sure.) Za’atar and sumac add a bright but grounded zestiness to the herby hummus and tomato jam.

For us, though, one of the real tests is in the simpler things—the dishes without much to hide behind. That’s where the Scone scores top marks. It looks like it’s going to crack your teeth if you have at it, but it cracks under light pressure (same) to reveal a soft, almost melting crumb. Pair it with their whipped butter and in-house jam, and you can start to see why high tea is such a big deal in some circles.

If you’re asking the question, the answer is likely to be a no. That is to say, if your only goal is to take pictures, eat, and leave, we wouldn’t recommend the trek. The staff do try to make the wait comfortable, lending umbrellas and making sure everyone’s hydrated as and when. But the goal of the bigger space wasn’t only to serve more—at least, not in terms of anonymous volume and foot traffic.

Even back in the commissary at Comuna, people would come in pairs and groups, and different tables would even mingle amongst themselves. A good chunk of the experience is the time you spend with other people; it’s no accident that Scratch’s new nest is along a wind tunnel of a residential street, made for slowing down and taking it all in.

Scratch is for those days when you don’t have to be anywhere else for a few hours; it’s for soaking up the dappled sunlight on the street outside, as well as your Cardamom Latte (P280). The food and atmosphere alike neither encourage nor discourage lingering; the vibes are almost entirely up to you—at least, for now, until 4 p.m.

Photos by Jar Concengco