Is Smith & Wollensky a Rare Gem or Is It All Just Well-Done Hype?

The truth of the matter is that it's impossible to discuss great steakhouses without including Smith & Wollensky at the table. While younger and older millennials may know it as the must-have steak for fictional magazine editor Miranda Priestly, the restaurant's legacy is much meatier than that.

Although it opened in 1977, the New York restaurant gained its cult status 20 years later, in 1997, when New York Times food critic Ruth Reichl called it "a steakhouse to end all arguments" and said, "The meat at Smith & Wollensky is dry aged and very, very good."

Besides that glowing recommendation from six-time James Beard awardee Reichl, Smith & Wollensky was also home to the legendary Warren Buffett charity lunch auction—a high-profile event where the highest bidder and seven of their companions get the rare opportunity to dine and gain insights from the legendary investment banker. For 20 years, Smith & Wollensky played host to this tradition, and according to stories from previous winners, Buffett always ordered their sirloin steak medium-rare with a Cherry Coke. If someone like Buffett was this invested in a steak, then the restaurant must really be doing something right. 

With this kind of resume and reputation, and a business that's still alive after 47 years, Smith & Wollensky's Manila debut carries the weight of serious expectations. So is it able to bring the Smith & Wollensky charm to this part of the world?

Apart from its main dining hall, the restaurant has private dining rooms, a function area, and a jazz bar. Each space feels like its own restaurant—yes, they're that big. One room can be hosting a big anniversary and the other rooms would be totally oblivious to the festivities happening outside.

The sheer scale of the space rightfully reflects how Smith & Wollensky proudly calls itself: “A Classic American Steakhouse.” In true American fashion, bigger is always better.

Like its other outposts, Smith & Wollensky Manila follows the brand's signature look: emerald green walls, gold accents, and a subdued but warm lighting that gives the place a posh yet cozy vibe—both a subtle warning to your wallet and an invitation to stay awhile. 

But there are touches unique to the branch: the staff uniforms were tailored by designer Rajo Laurel—a favorite of Hardyment’s wife—and the sculptural light fixtures and art pieces scattered throughout the space are the handiwork of Jed Yabut. These small nods to Filipino craftsmanship and creativity add a hint of homegrown charm to this otherwise all-American establishment.

For Hardyment, a visit to Smith & Wollensky is all about the steak—and there are several ways to get your fix. The menu offers a lineup of prime cuts: filet mignon, rib-eye, sirloin strip, porterhouse, and tomahawk—available dry-aged for 28 days or served wet-aged and fresh. You can have it as seasoned or request a bit of salt and Dijon mustard to make the umami pop. Pair it with sides or upgrade it with roasted bone marrow, uni, lobster. However which way you have it, Hardyment is confident it'll be good. 

And with good reason. The brand prides itself in providing diners with the best quality steaks, and to do that, they fly their meat in from their two tried-and-tested farms: Double R Ranch Northwest Beef, and Snake River Farms in the United States.

These partner farms are the sources of all Smith & Wollensky meats across the globe, which somewhat promises a consistent steak experience anywhere they are.

Quite impressively, Smith & Wollensky also does their own dry-aging. Every location is fitted with its own dry-aging room, enough to host the giant slabs of meat flown in. Smith & Wollensky handles all aspects of steak production, from butchering to aging, ensuring everything is done within the brand's exacting standards. 

Knowing how a steakhouse sources its meat gives you a general idea of how your plated steak will be prepared. After all, a steak meal is simply seasoned grilled meat. There are right and wrong ways to cook a steak but it all begins with good-quality beef.

Honestly, you can't go wrong with any of their selections. Arguably, the best way to have steaks, especially the USDA Prime grade, is to try them dry-aged. Smith & Wollensky's 28-day dry-aged steaks are available in 24-ounce portions of rib-eye (P9,980), 21-ounce bone-in New York strip (P8,880), or 44-ounce porterhouse cuts (P16,880). If you like rich, fatty, and tender steaks, opt for their rib-eye cut. However, those who prefer leaner, firmer steaks might do better with a strip. If you can't choose, get the best of both worlds with a porterhouse. 

Pro tip: Ask for Dijon mustard on the side. The tangy and slightly spicy flavor of the condiment cuts the richness of the steak without overpowering the nutty, earthy flavors from the dry-aging.

Aside from dry-aged USDA Prime meats, those opting for a milder beefy flavor profile can also have the same cuts fresh (wet-aged), alongside Japanese A5 Wagyu (P5,080). 

Pair these with their classic sides like the creamed spinach (P580) or their silky whipped potatoes (P580). But since we're in Manila, you can also pair them with rice, but with a Smith & Wollensky upgrade. They have rice topped with Foie Gras (P1,580), bone marrow (P1,280), or Spanish chorizo (P680). 

Other enhancements are the Rossinni style (P1,880), which features additional foie gras and truffle; the Lobster Oscar (P1,180), a mix of lobster and hollandaise; and a few other equally indulgent-sounding add-ons. If you’re curious, we recommend ordering one or two to share with the table—they’re a lot, both in flavor and portion, and best enjoyed in bites.

If you want to add a bit of surf to your table, Smith & Wollensky also serves a mean selection of seafood. Smith & Wollensky's crab cake (P1,180) is more crab than cake—think a generous serving of shredded fresh crab meat, no extenders or fillers—and served with a cognac or ginger sauce. There's also the Angry Shrimp (P1,380), a deep-fried prawn served over a bed of mashed potato that's meant to be just spicy enough to give diners a mild tingle in the throat.

The steep price is largely due to the steak's pedigree. It originates from the prized and specially bred American Wagyu, a cross between the Japanese Wagyu and Black Angus, which lends the resulting meat the tenderness and richness of a Japanese Wagyu while retaining the stronger, meatier flavor of the Angus. Also, it's a massive 44-ounce (roughly 1.3 kilograms) slab coated with a generous serving of torched beef fat, making it juicy on the inside and outside.

Is Smith & Wollensky truly the steakhouse that ends all "best steakhouse" arguments? With the onslaught of new players in Manila's steak scene, taking the prime spot is still anybody's game. But one thing’s for sure: bring someone here and they’ll be impressed—not necessarily by your spending power (though kudos to you if you’re the type who just casually drops P25k on a tomahawk) but by the fact that you brought them to a place that delivers on every plate. 

There's a reason the Warren Buffett lunch auctions are held in Smith & Wollensky, and it's the same reason that, out of all American steakhouses, it was the one name-dropped as hard-to-please Miranda Priestley's favorite steak. That's because a meal at Smith & Wollensky is an investment towards, well, beefing up your culinary repertoire. Any food lover ought to try it at least once.