Tatung’s at Gateway Serves Seriously Good Beef Caldereta That Might Get You Hooked

(SPOT.ph) The second thing you’ll probably notice about Tatung’s is it doesn’t feel like it’s inside a mall at all. The first, depending on when you go, might be the full house.

Even after many cookbooks, a thriving presence on social media, and even a growing media company named for his ‘Simpol’ approach to life and cooking, Chef Myke “Tatung” Sarthou is still finding new challenges to surmount. Equal parts French-inspired brasserie, undeniable Spanish influence, and Filipino vacation-house flair, this latest venture was an uphill battle that really paid off. He reveals: “Outside of the staff, Tatung’s is my first solo project.”

Most of the materials are upcycled from odd inheritances and friends’ collections; Tatung deliberately went for an old-school feel to the place. “Ang vision ko kasi is it’s an escape, a break from the normal,” he shares with SPOT. And, true to form, he and his team achieve what they strive for—there’s a warmth to this pocket of Gateway 2 that invites you and your companions to while away the hours and fully savor your meal.

And you should, because to rush through this menu would be a betrayal of self.

There’s very little guesswork when it comes to ordering at Tatung’s; where other menus can be a bit vague or cryptic (and sometimes that adds to the fun), this Filipino repertoire tells it like it is… save perhaps for the Gambas sa Latik (P480), depending on your understanding of it. You might read “latik” and think “sweet” and, in this instance, “oh no??”—but fret not. Breaking away from its caramel-coded reputation, latik here refers to savory coconut curds cooked down to form something that behaves a little more like bagoong. This twist on a classic appetizer somehow doesn’t clash at all with the Mixed Kinilaw (P720), a refreshing, sour-sweet plate of tuna, squid, and (more) shrimp.

Whole Pampano sa Gata (P780) and the Porbida (P450) round out the seafood plates we couldn’t get enough of. The coconut cream sauce with the tender pampano has such a warmth and herbaceousness that it almost reads like kaffir, if one had to guess, but the chef himself insists: “It’s just a lot of ginger.” Meanwhile, any confusion about the Porbida is easily cleared up by the description—it’s inspired by the kangkong dish from Bacolod, rather than the Antique heritage hen. It’s well-balanced, and a great addition to any family-style gathering at Tatung’s, as is the Hardinera (P650)—the fun version of meatloaf that’s so easy to share.

The satay-slathered Chicken Skewer (P495) is great even for the picky eater (barring a peanut allergy). It’s one of the most approachable dishes on the menu—super kid-friendly, again for the families—and doesn’t demand too much of the diner. It’s moist, savory-sweet, and could do with a little spice for some, but is overall a sure hit if, for whatever reason, everything else you’ve read so far hasn’t been convincing. The same might ring true for the Relyenadong Hipon (P480), equal parts crunchy, tender, and liable to make a selfish person out of whoever orders it.

But we’re confirmed meat eaters here at Team Spot, for better or worse, so the Corned Beef Sinigang (P780) was and remains a must-try, if for nothing else but the sole reason that they do not cut back on the face-puckering tamarind. The beef itself falls apart with just the press of a spoon, which tells you everything you need to know.

The Mama Naty's Humba (P550) carries a depth to its sweetness that screams “family recipe”—Tatung admits to making it at home whenever he feels like it, which adds to the feeling that this particular concept of his is a composite of his experiences that he’s giving us the TL;DR on. The Bisaya roots and inferences shine in this dish, which some might think of as an adobo that just got engaged. If you’ve run out of garlic rice at this point, do not hesitate to order it again; it simply must be done.

But if you want to talk about family recipes, Mama’s Calderetang Baka with Queso de Bola (P880) is the one you’ll want to try and steal. “We’ve already had a person who’s walked out when it wasn’t available,” says the chef, only a little bewildered that the rich beef stew could 1) fly out of the kitchen the way it has in the first month, and 2) inspire such a reaction. It might actually be the perfect rendition of the dish—not too salty, not too oily, with beef that has just enough crust before giving way to tender, tear-apart goodness. I could write sonnets about this caldereta, but unfortunately, nobody pays me to do that.

“We had just Tindeli before,” says Tatung, referring to the three-in-one cafe, deli, and pasalubong shop in the same mall complex. Now it sits at the front of Tatung’s, with treats like the Halaya Cake (P270/slice) or the Bibingka Cheesecake (P280/slice) on display. “And, you know, as much as you and I can wish we all rallied behind Filipino food, it’s understandable also why Pinoys don’t necessarily go for it when dining out,” he adds. “So battling that mentality is part of the package whether I like it or not.”

Still, it turned out beautifully. It’s joined an army of Filipino and Filipino-inspired restaurants that not only serve food we the ordinary public would never make on the regular, but also excellent versions of classic dishes that don’t ruin what you have at home—but it must be said that while Tatung’s keeps it simple, it’s really anything but ordinary.

But I think that’s because what this restaurant shows even the local diner is that Filipino food is itself not ordinary; we only think it is because we’re so used to it. That at least lines up with his ‘Simpol’ philosophy, which has defined his cooking and his writing over the course of his time in the kitchen.

“This is all very personal, so of course I gave it my name. But it was almost something else,” he shares conspiratorially.

“What else could it have possibly been?” I ask.

“Noong iniisip ko pa lang, I knew I wanted it to be on par with Lore,” he says, referring to his Michelin Selected restaurant in BGC. He mimes tucking a lock of hair back: “So Par Lore!”

Photos by Hans Fausto