Where Manila's Top Chefs Go for Great Steak

(SPOT.ph) Perhaps it has become a little too easy these days to think of steak as a regular treat on the same level as a really good pizza—a touch more expensive, with more pushing the boat out, but still inching towards ordinary. But it says something that most of us don’t serve it at home; there is, whether we like it or not, a wall of expertise between us, the home cooks and everyday diners, and a really good steak. But how many of us have had great steak?

Most of us certainly have a favorite, or at least some place we’ve been dying to try. But we at SPOT.ph would dare to pose slightly different questions: Where do the expert hands behind some of your other favorite dinners reach for a steak knife? Where do their service-worn feet wander when it’s their turn to be served? 

We initially approached the idea with the assumption that some of the most celebrated chefs in Metro Manila would each be able to say something different and why, given that steakhouses are almost a dime a dozen—at least compared to about 20 years ago. But as they do in their own kitchens, these chefs surprised us.

One man who’s left an indelible mark on the local dining scene is Chef Chele Gonzalez (Gallery by Chele, Cantabria, Samira); we’ve said before that his love of immaculate vibes is a guiding force in his work, and so it’s no surprise it serves the same purpose in his leisure. For steak, he likes Morton’s, a place that loves to help a celebration along. “This is just one of the places where I enjoy steak in the Philippines,” he says. “While I do prefer more of [a European steak], I like the flavor of good caramelization, and the scent of a good fire for a more intense flavor to the meat.” For newcomers to get that quality full-force, we recommend the Cajun Ribeye (P6,980).

And just from us? Don’t skip the Sour Cream Mashed Potatoes or the Onion Loaf. “Good sides are important,” adds Gonzalez, “but of course what really makes any dinner is good company.” 

Another Chele favorite, Aussie-centric Raging Bull doesn’t need to add all its frills but does it anyway (kind of like how Chef Gonzalez operates). Of course, high-backed leather chairs, balisongs for steak knives, a sprinkle of porcini salt, and an array of different mustards never hurt anybody, but the mere sight of those grill marks on the glossy exterior already promise a world of fattiness and smokey goodness, and on their own still deliver a whole lot more. The Black Market MS5+ Pure Black Angus (P5,150) and Rangers Valley Wagyu MS7+ (P5,950) both perform this odd double-duty of filling you up and making you think about the next time you’ll get to have them.

“You’ve got to have good sides,” says Chef Gonzalez, and Raging Bull doesn’t disappoint on that front, either; their rich and texturally generous Potato Gratin with Gruyere (P375) and snap-happy Broccolini with Garlic Parmesan (P590) are almost to die for—almost, because it's better if you live to have them.

Chefs Kevin David (Idalia, Bun Run), Charles Montañez (Mamacita, Liyab), and Jorge Mendez (Some Thai, Mōdan) have been satisfying cravings (and creating new ones) for years, but cite this newer player in the steakhouse game as a balm that soothes theirs. It makes sense - it’s really all in the name. “Don’t sleep on the steak rice and fries, they pair so well with the steak,” David advises. “Steak & Frice really brought a fun, modern take on a classic.”

“I catch myself thinking about the comfort this place brings to my life,” laughs Montañez. “Their flavors are on-point, it’s very simple, and you get the sense of security that it will be good every time.”

What owner Amado Fores describes as ‘a future classic’ has indeed catapulted itself into go-to territory in not very much time, and chefs’ pick aside, it’s easy to see why. The offerings are straightforward with an opportunity for some adventure. “[My house] never skips our weekly steak day,” says Mendez, “and this is our go-to when in BGC—we like to pair a medium ribeye with pasta.”

However, Mendez knows he’d be remiss if he didn’t acknowledge the Quezon-City boy in him: “My family are ‘Gateway people,’” he shares. Among his favorites closer to home is the ever-reliable Wolfgang, where he’s “absolutely going to top the Steak Rice with Creamed Spinach.” (P698 and P498, respectively.) It is also, in our own humble estimation, probably the most reliably tender (and generously fat-rendered) Porterhouse (starting at P4,788) steaks you can get.

There’s a weird thing that happens to a Wolfgang's first-timer that we believe cements its status as a great steakhouse; the darker, leathery, posh man-cave interiors can seem intimidating, but from the time your meal has started to the minute you’re walking out, you know for sure you’ll be back. It’s hard to believe that, at time of writing, this chef’s pick hasn’t even turned 10 yet.

Here’s a man who takes in the full energy of a place; Chef Kel Zaguirre’s more budget-friendly recommendation still comes with “the works,” he feels. “It’s so old-school, I love it,” says Zaguirre. “The cowboy ranch-themed interiors? The gravy poured table-side onto a sizzling plate? Solid.” Among the steak options that get this very treatment, the Tenderloin Tips (P485) and the Au Poivre (P610) prove that you really can’t judge a plate by its price.

“For me, it's as much about the service and energy as it is about the quality of the meat,” adds Zaguirre.

A shared favorite between Gonzalez and David, Elbert’s is an institution for a reason; we feel safe in declaring it the most thoughtful kitchen across the board, regardless of the theme of the menu. Brothers and co-owners Elbert and Adrian Cuenca maintain the same mystery-by-default, quality-by-design energy that they’ve had since the beginning—18 years ago, to be accurate. It’s not quite a time capsule, but there is certainly something about this tucked-away (yet consistently booked) Makati gem that feels old-school. “I really enjoyed my experience at Elbert’s,” says Chef David, whose history of learning the local landscape includes this very place. “Great beef, great wine selection—just so classic.”

“All our steaks come prix fixe,” explains Elbert. “No à la carte, because the steaks have got to be room temperature before cooking.”

“That’s really the secret,” adds Adrian, also the executive chef. “Because of that, we can stick to simple flavors, simple plates… let the ingredient do the work, really.” We were lucky enough to sample the Steak Dinner Set that included a main of Double Gold Tenderloin, creamed spinach, and buttered string beans (P6,000)—and the almost architectural nature of the plating wowed almost more than a family-style spread could ever manage. And the flavor? Even better.

However (capital H), we’re never going to make the mistake of sincerely dissing family-style—not when five chefs chose Mamou as a go-to, as both Zaguirre and Mendez do. Chris Manalo (Love! Burgers) shares with SPOT.ph, “I typically make mine at home, but my family loves this place for going out. Mamou does that sprinkling of crispy fat on top, and I do [something similar at home], but make it steak fried rice,” he adds with a laugh.

Of a similar age to Elbert's (you might consider them their own generation of steak-centric restaurants), there is a distinct note of simplicity to both the menu and modes of serving. Where younger houses might put go all out on fanfare, places like these almost consider themselves purists.

“What I like about Mamou is that they’re consistent, and everything else on the menu is [on a similar level],” says Chef Tina Legarda (Bamba Bistro, Kumba). “I need to eat steak with other stuff, like a simple pasta.” We recommend the Amatriciana (P375).

Rhea Rizzo (Mrs Saldo’s) also cites the restaurant's unchanging quality. "I'm looking for that full-flavored umami," she says, "and locally, Mamou is consistently great."