A Guide to Perea Street: Cool Cafés, Brutalist Buildings, and More

(SPOT.ph) The Makati CBD may seem like just one giant, noisy concrete labyrinth to the outsider. Nine hundred and fifty hectares of just buildings, buildings, and more buildings trying to sell you something or working people to the bone. But those who work in the area, live there, or visit often know there are pockets of peace and gentleness here. Whether it’s a bench under a tree within the Washington Sycip Park, or a piece of sidewalk beside a Jollijeep where a sisig-selling ate greets customers with the kind of “Good morning” that will restore your faith in humanity.

And then there’s Perea Street. Short and sweet, tree-dotted Perea Street. Makati’s prettiest, apparently. Attracting everyone from bikers to joggers to content creators shooting the day's OOTD, or an entire “fashion editorial” for IG.

Back when I still lived in Quezon City, I often braved two-hour traffic jams to write my articles in Deuces, an Instagrammable, millennial-pink coffee shop whose look and brews must have introduced once sleepy Perea to Gen Zs. It's closed shop now but during those days I’d take the same seat by the huge peace sign outside, and order the same lechon kawali rice bowl and Spanish latte, much to my mother’s bewilderment. “What is so special about that area that keeps you coming back?” she often asked.

I couldn’t articulate it back then but there was always something about Perea, with its canopy of trees that filter in just the right amount of light, the elegant blend of Brutalist and modern architecture. Now many see its magic as well. Ask the runners spending their well-earned breaks on the sidewalk, the solo diners with their noses buried in books, or the fashion kids waiting in front of the famous OOTD wall between Shang Grand Tower and Pamana.

During my mom’s time, Perea was only another street in Legazpi Village named after what seems to be an early Spanish-era conquistador, soldier, or missionary. Perhaps available research is so sparse because it has always kept a low profile. What we do know is that it was around the 1970s to the 1980s when Legazpi and Salcedo Village were developed as quieter complements to the increasingly dense Ayala Avenue.

The Brutalist structures still standing on the street—all the rage during the aforementioned decades—offer a clue as to when this street started coming to life. There’s the Mayfair Mansion towards the end, almost immediately facing Greenbelt Mansion which is kind of a favorite address to stalwarts of creative industries. The late movie producer Tony Gloria (Working Girls, Bagets, and all the big Sharon Cuneta movies) and his Unitel Pictures (Crying Ladies, Santa Santita, and the APO musical I Do Bidoo Bidoo) held office here. Interior designer Chat Fores’ design studio is in the mezzanine. And award-winning firm Buensalido+Architects has called it home since establishing business in the building in 2006.

“I think Perea is one of, if not the best street in the Makati CBD. I think this is true now but also even way back then,” says Jason Buensalido, founder of Buensalido+Architects. “It’s a short and minor street which means not a lot of cars pass thru it compared to some major roads in the CBD. It has beautiful full grown trees—that shed yellow leaves in May, painting the entire street yellow—wide sidewalks, and Brutalist buildings that have aged well. Even the newest building on the street being built back then (Shang Grand Tower), is an Art Deco building, so it blended right into the architectural character of the street. The combination of all of these don’t only make it a pretty street, but a walkable one.”

“I transferred to Perea Street from Legazpi Street about four years ago… feels like a different village," shares accessories, interior, and lighting designer Mark Wilson. Echoing the sentiments of those we spoke to, it's also the Narra trees that make the street a standout for Mark, and the low-rise Brutalist buildings. "And the curve of the street...how it's wider on the Dela Rosa side and then narrows down on the Paseo side. Very rare to get a curved street in Legazpi Village."

"Perea feels like old Makati that’s young at heart," says resident Patch Lozano, a graphic designer. "It also has an unusual friendliness to it. You end up being greeted the jolly jeep ladies, the guards, the servers. For a city that often feels transactional, Perea feels surprisingly warm."

Tina Samson (not her real name) has been a resident of Perea for more than two decades, but her history with the street goes farther back.

“This is where I first worked, at the SGV Development Center, which is now the Shang Grand Tower," the lifestyle media figure tells Spot, adding that most everything in the place still pretty much looks like how it did in the 1980s. "The same feel and charm and vibe remain, even if there are more establishments now. The buildings are still pretty much monochromatic and preserved in time. And there seems to be a concerted effort among residents and building owners to preserve the beauty of each building. Parang there’s care put into not letting ugliness invade the street.”

Just like Buensalido, Samson knows the greenery contributes a lot to why Perea is perennially pretty. “The greenery is a big factor; the trees are so tall that on my fourth floor home, when you look at the windows, it’s all greenery!”

Buensalido has spent so much time here that he’s taken note of the comings and goings. “I remember World Tops before it became Pamana for quick bites,” he offers. “Mom and Tina’s has been a staple on the corner and is there until now. There used to be a good Vietnamese restaurant called Ba Nois, too. Before, though, Perea was quiet on the weekends and after work. Restaurants and coffee shops then wouldn’t last very long and they would change very often.”

But things are different now.

“Restaurants and coffee shops are thriving! Gen X, Millenials, and most especially Gen Zs flock our street from early morning until evening!” observes the architect. “I see a lot of creatives in the area too. There are a lot of people fashionably dressed, and they hold photoshoots for content (probably because of the dappled light of the trees, or the textures of the buildings) and they fall in line to hang out in the coffee shops—we have four now, I believe! This is true even on weekends, which was not the case before.”

Gen Xers who partied during their trentahin years, however, would tell you Perea wasn’t always the sleepy kid it was known to be before this recent, well, awakening. For a brief period in the 2000s, an upscale bistro and wine bar called Shiraz in the ground floor of Palisades building gave the street a little shaking up, at least in the evenings and early weekend mornings. Designed by noted architect Gil Coscolluella (whose design firm W.V. Coscolluela is also located in Perea), it attracted the society crowd and fashion set.

“Whatever it is, it’s become a veritable party every night – with practically everyone getting to know each other or one ‘other’ in the next table,” reported Philip Cu-unjieng in The Philippine Star at that time. “The name of the game has thus become table-hopping. There’s a flow to the physical bodies and to the discourse that has made Shiraz heaven for the hip 20 and 30-somethings. Reminiscent of an establishment that you’d find in the Village in New York, it sets a new standard for what an eatery can look like.”

Lines reportedly got so long outside that the staff had to turn away people into the very early hours of Friday and Saturday mornings. After Shiraz, other trendy spaces would pop up, and then die down: Local Edition, Banh Mi, and Balkan, to name a few. And Perea would once again be the sleepy street it has always been, like an introvert reasserting its quiet nature.

Says Cosculluela on the Perea charm: "It's a low density area since most of the buildings are old. Not to mention it's predominantly a residential neighborhood." And while his Shiraz did shake up the neighborhood a little during its time, his choices for what would occupy the family-owned Palisades after that—from Skins to Linen and Homes, Kiyosa to Kurasu—points to keeping things quiet and chill. "The choices were intentional, in the sense that we prefer establishments that are not highly commercialized. Single outfit establishments. This helps the Palisades maintain its unique charm."

It would take three creative Millennials for Perea to reenter our collective lexicon. Remember the boys of @PereaStreet who rose to internet fame just before the pandemic? They were @julodeguzman @edseluy and @subicbae, prouduction house kids with a shared love for street wear. Samson tells Spot their fashion and comedy IG account – named in honor of Perea, naturally, and also their office WYD's address– inspired “van loads of young boys, who would bring outfits to stage photo shoots by the bare walls even late into the night.”

“It was the peak of streetwear and we were so into it and we wanted a platform to share our love for it,” says Judd, or the DJ @subicbae, one of the three young men who made up "mga pogi ng Perea." “We were so lucky na people liked our content that time and a lot of our most watched episodes were shot along Perea Street."

Judd says he's very much attached to the area. “Ang personal ng Perea Street sa akin, that’s why I love it. I have so many memories there. People didn’t really mind our shenanigans. I love how chill it is! Pero also it’s so near to other Makati ganaps." WYD was a popular hangout then, back when cafes in the neighborhood were mostly Starbucks. "Parating may gathering sa office namin. And we had so much fun hosting friends. Since our building didn’t have strict hours, we spent a lot of late nights there socializing, drinking, singing, dancing. And this was before the pandemic so the rhythm of life was so different. It was such a fun time!”

Things have definitely changed in Perea Street. What was once Local Edition Coffee has become Sourdough, hangout of the Amekaji boys who bike on weekends. What is now Kurasu used to be a bed linen store. Banh Mi became Deuces. Blue Water became Turques. Through these phases, Perea has retained its quiet charm. "Most of the places we’ve loved are still around," says Lozano. "Chew & Brew—they make a killer lumpia—remains a fixture of our week. Mom and Tina too. [But] I’m less attached to individual establishments than I am to the fact that the street has somehow resisted becoming one long row of interchangeable concepts."

On weekdays, you will still find expats and executives walking alongside their kids, chasing their dogs, or unloading their groceries. But there’s no question there's more people now giving the street a new kind of verve. “I loved Perea ever since, but I love it more so now because it attracts different communities from all walks of life,” says Buensalido, “giving the street such an interesting energy that’s great to be part of.”

The first thing anyone sees once they make their way down Perea is a line of big bikes and Vespas alongside smaller, limited-edition scooters, courtesy of the street’s eponymous Moto District. This charming neighborhood joint has the ingredients of a certified tambike place: premium drinks, a steady supply of quality gear, and a brotherhood nurtured over the past four years.

On a recent visit, a popular luxury vehicle brand was doing a test ride of their heritage bikes. The energy was difficult to contain, with everyone eager to get on the road. Everywhere you looked, vigorous hugs and handshakes were being exchanged. 

Migs Sevilla, the brand’s social media marketing head, takes pride in the environment they’re able to nurture and the faith the team had in the business idea. “We always counted on the fact that all they needed was to build the space for someone to come. Our thing is if you ride alone, you just have to come over and when you leave, you’ll be part of our crew.”

Located further down the street is a more quiet corner favored by another group of biking enthusiasts. The Amekaji Bikers Club are a bit more reserved compared to the folks on the other end of the road. But like all other urban men on two wheels these days, these style rebels, champions of American x Japanese workwear, like to fuel up with caffeine and good conversation before embarking on their weekend rides.

Member Jico Joson tells Spot they inherited this coveted “hideout” from Kuya Kim Atienza’s group: “We have a good view of our bikes, which is mandatory. If we stay long enough, there will also be some nice bikes that draw our eyes and summon us in a way.” It doesn’t hurt that food at Sourdough is also famously good: check out their all-day brunch, particularly the succulent Skillet Beef Ragu (P550) with tomatoes and chorizo; or the Lemon and Prawns (P595)— luscious seafood seasoned with chili flakes, garlic, and basil, a personal favorite.

Named after the Japanese word for ‘to live’ or ‘lifestyle’, specialty cafe Kurasu brings the minimalist coffee culture of Kyoto to Makati. As seen in their warm and inviting interiors and meticulous brewing techniques, the team has mastered the art of making more out of less. Some no-frills, specialty offerings include their single origin or Rwanda blend (P220) which has deep floral, fruity notes; the beginner-friendly creamy sweetened matcha (P260/280); and the cascara spiced soda (P190), a Manila exclusive brewed from the dried skins of coffee cherries, best paired with their milky, melt-in-your-mouth egg shoku pandesal (P250).

Above everything, though, community is at the core of what Kurasu wants to establish: bringing together those who want to slow down, have a quick chat, or work in silence as they power through another caffeinated afternoon. Watch out for more cupping events, run club collaborations, and workshops for beginners and long-time enthusiasts alike. As senior barista Sab's claim goes: “Even if you’re a traveler, all we want is for you to feel at home.”

Many establishments claim to be WFH-friendly, but only a few are actually designed for it like Natsu. For instance, take a look at their variety of seating options: booths for small group discussions are right beside communal tables for solo workers to share. There’s no shortage of power outlets, plus complimentary WiFi is available for up to two hours. Menu items include no-nonsense classics and experimental mixes – give their Summer Salt Latte (P185/P195) a try for a strong and smooth choice (it has a hint of Himalayan pink salt), or their Fizzy Brew (P150) made of sparkling water, lemon, and espresso, for a refreshing wake-me-up. 

Most importantly, enjoy their filling and satisfying food options: a non-negotiable for those who need to power through a stressful work day. Some suggestions: the lightly coated, perfectly seasoned Chicken Karaage Bites (P225), or the Soy Glazed Wagyu Chunks (P410) resting on a bed of soft, steaming rice. I would continue to gatekeep the space so I always have a seat, but wouldn’t it be a shame if this place didn’t get its flowers, as a cafe that truly embodies the warmth of a Japanese summer?

Every time Cam and Theo Sandico travel abroad, they do more than hit famous tourist destinations. These real-life and business partners make it a point to roam walkable parts of the city, in search of their next favorite thing. No set itinerary, just vibes. It’s this feeling of serendipitous discovery that inspired them to put up Moai, a thoughtfully conceptualized space combining coffee, comfort food, and a curated selection of apparel and accessories brands.

Come for their stocked shelves, lined with handcrafted ceramics, unique lifestyle pieces, or the latest titles in arts and culture (they carry Monocle magazine) – whatever the vibe is for the month. You can get anything here, from your next framed artwork and 3D-printed desk lamp to a Leuchtturm notebook in whatever pastel color. Or pick something from the menu, which feature special twists on familiar favorites: the Pickled Pork Toastie (P595) pairs tender meat with fresh and sour red onions, while their specialty Moai Matcha Oat Latte (P280) layers Moonbug Matcha’s signature umami with an irresistible cream cheese foam. 

But stay, however, for the familiarity of a neighborhood cafe. There’s indie pop blaring through the outdoor speakers, baristas that know you and your order by heart, and the distinct feeling of walking into a space alone and leaving with an unexpected new set of friends. It’s a recurring theme across all the conversations I had with people in the places I pass by here, as well as an observation that has become clearer to me as I relocated to Legazpi Village and became a regular myself. 

Perea is the green, beating heart hidden beneath Makati’s steely, concrete skyscrapers. It promises that such a cold-looking, cosmopolitan place can hold space for a friendly neighborhood, and all the cool and quirky characters that come with it. If you stay around for even a short while, you could be one of them, too.

All photographs by Majoy Siason