Italy's Rossopomodoro Brings Napoli Favorites to Pizza-Obsessed Manila

Branches at SM Mall of Asia, Pasay City; SM East Ortigas, Pasig City

Facebook: www.facebook.com/p/Rossopomodoro-PH-61566983412491

(SPOT.ph) Naples, Italy prides itself as one of Italy’s (and the world’s) finest producers especially in terms of auto engineering, fashion, and yes, food and beverages. It’s no surprise then that sometimes, you’ll find grains of truth in the recurring trope of a Neapolitan chef chuckling good-naturedly at non-Italian attempts to make “Italian” food.

Pizza and pasta have long since adapted themselves to the Filipino context and palate, with traditional ingredients swapped by locally-available ones, cooked using methods more accessible to Filipinos.

The Italian franchise serves both traditional and innovative dishes that stick to the “red tomato” principles of Napoli cooking. At the helm is award-winning Filipino-Italian chef Jonathan Marchello, who was born and raised in Italy, and moved to the Philippines to take on the challenge of running one Rossopomodoro for a new audience. 

There, too, is the tomato-based Reginella (P845) pizza, which uses ricotta cheese and "one whole Burrata [cheese] once the pizza is cooked,” as per Marcello. Great stuff it was, given the interplay between the cheese’s gentle umami and tangy-tart tomato base.

The pizzas also use traditional Neapolitan dough, which takes at least 24 hours—double-maturation, as Marcello clarifies—to prepare all as the Parmigiano is aged for 48 months.

We also tried pastas like the classic Tagliatella alla Bolognese (P495) and Linguine Gamberi e Limone (P645) which were done al dente, with the protein cooked separately and added later all as the noodles were first flavored in their respective stocks, enhancing the finish after each bite: Beef and tomato for the former, shrimp for the latter. Cheese lovers are in luck here as Rossopomodoro's generous on the burrata and ricotta. The chef also shares how even the noodles they select are optimized to work with the sauces prepared.

Of the newer items, there are also meat entrees for those looking for more protein. Try the Porchetta (P650)—Rossopomodoro's take on the Italian roast pork dish, whose seasoning and doneness with herbs like thyme and oregano is just right to bring the dish home past its crispy crust. I normally find pork dishes cloying, but in this case, the usual offal aftertaste that follows pork is absent. A likely reason? The chef explains how the standards of pork preparation and curing have evolved through the years, such that certain techniques that were dangerous in the past can be used today.

Another new menu item is the Tagliata di Manzo (P1,695), which we had medium rare, Rossopomodoro’s default setting, with a doneness and marinade just right, complementing rather than smothering the grass-fed beef’s natural flavors. I particularly enjoyed how the meat dishes came with generous—and quality—side vegetables. The Tagliata even had cheese, essentially making it a balanced steak-and-salad situation.

Of course, all this is best paired with a glass of Rossopomodoro's Aperol Spritz (P395) made with Prosecco, a fresh orange slice, and of course, the iconic Italian liqueur. It’s interesting how this drink from Northern Italy rounds out the rich, flavors of Southern Italian cuisine, such as from Napoli cooking. It’s la dolce vita, and here, friend, everyone’s a daydrinker.

For dessert, don't skip the Tiramisu (P250) and the Tomato Jam Pannacotta (P195)—a classic and then an innovation, respectively!

For anyone visiting SM Mall of Asia or East Ortigas at whatever time and occasion—a runner’s race, a staycation with loved ones, a business conference while billeted, a romantic evening or a pre-game with friends—Rossopomodoro is one good option to set the stage for good memories thanks to good, unpretentious eats.