This Low-Key Makati Resto Serves Seriously Good, “Casual” Plates Peppered With Asian Flavors

2/F Oakridge Building, Paseo de Magallanes, Makati City

Contact: 0954-335-2795

Instagram: www.instagram.com/casuals.dining

(SPOT.ph) Casual dining is serious business for Chef Rowen Amurao. He whips up playful but uncomplicated plates designed for fuss-free eating at his restaurant tucked away on the second level of Oakridge Building, one of the main establishments within Makati's bustling Paseo de Magallanes Commercial Center. If there's anything to learn from this promising spot, fittingly named Casuals, it's that uncomplicated doesn’t have to mean simplistic—or vanilla.

On one of the hanging shelves, eye-catching in its red hue, is a copy of the Supernormal Cookbook—a token from the restaurant of the same name in Melbourne, Australia, which is one of the places Amurao worked at over the course of his seven-year stay in the country. The chef has been cooking professionally for 12 years now, graduating with a Culinary Arts degree at DLS-CSB and doing some internships in the U.S. He flew to Australia in 2017 and got to work the kitchens of several dining spots: at Hawker Hall in Windsor, a food court inspired by the hawker centers of Singapore and Malaysia; Supernormal as mentioned, an all-day dining spot that takes inspiration from the food and dining cultures of Tokyo, Shanghai, Seoul and Hong Kong; and Chin Chin in Sydney, which serves Southeast Asian fare—Thai, especially—with modern Aussie sensibilities. 

Noticeably, the places mentioned draw on Asian cuisine for inspiration, in large part given the abundance of dining spots that serve them in Australia (Melbourne especially). Being home to a large migrant population, the dining scene in Melbourne is a huge melting pot, Amurao tells us. Not only is the range of cuisines vast; there are also plenty of crossovers that take place between cultures, with delicious results. “I think that's what Australian cuisine is for me,” he says. “It’s very diverse, no borders. But it always revolves around the freshest ingredients.” 

Freshness continues to inspire him. In particular, he enjoys working with plants, as is hinted at by the Adolphe Millot-esque vintage posters of vegetables toward the end of one of the walls. “We’re not a vegetarian restaurant, but I think we do vegetables really well,” the chef explains. “I love the fact that we can highlight veggies in a way where it’s still fresh but intense at the same time, in terms of flavour. [It’s also about] highlighting the use of local produce in a way. And vegetables have flavour and feelings din.”

He brings the same spirit over to Casuals, which is all about food that’s, well, casual, and darn delicious for it. Familiar, sure, and just the right amount of comforting—but still inspired, occasionally mischievous, and happily balanced. There's a composedness to the plating, but it's kept relaxed overall: "'Pag rustic 'yung pagkain, I feel masarap siya i-share," he quips. Amurao's more traditional Western culinary training comes out in his use of classic cooking techniques, yet his lineup is peppered with Asian flavors and elements, drawing from his own flavor palate and experiences. "For example, the pâté that I have—it's very French. It's a pâté. But there is adobo jus [in it]." Of course, he’s more than happy to rewrite the rules or make his own where it applies. 

Plants, as mentioned, aren’t just relegated to being sides here, but treated as main stars in their own right. This is best exemplified by the Zucchini (P450), described by Amurao as a great gateway dish for the less readily veggie-inclined. It involves its namesake, simply seared and flaunting a glossy, browned surface; pistachio salsa, whose nuttiness and zest brings out the caramelized note on the zucchini; in-house made ricotta, for creaminess sans too much heft; and a drizzle of honey that rounds out all the other parts. 

More feisty are the Eggplant Fries (P250), inspired by a similar dish Amurao once had in Australia, where matchsticks of the eggplant are coated in a batter of rice and tapioca flours and fried. It’s then coated in a Szechuan chili sauce—a sweet, sour, subtly floral counterpoint to the tender eggplant within. Don’t be surprised by the bigger pieces of Szechuan peppercorns dotting some of the fries, which Amurao leaves in by design as he enjoys the subtle crunch they contribute.

Amurao describes the Hamachi (P780)—one of their big plates, with teriyaki-glazed hamachi collar simply grilled so that the meat yields effortlessly from the bone—to be “very Supernormal” in style. “This is my ‘thank you’ to Supernormal as well,” he says. A salad of cucumber and kimchi makes for a punchy side, and there’s a wad of karashi (Japanese mustard) you can dab on (in small doses) for zip.

There’s also the heftier Porchetta (P1,100), a slab (roughly one an a half inches thick) of rolled pork belly roasted low and slow, rendering the skin crackly-crisp while keeping the meat succulent. A fist-sized scoop of spiced, roasted pineapple jam makes for a Christmas-y combo, while a side salad of fresh herbs keeps the overall ensemble grounded. To keep the holiday feels going, you’ll want to order a plate of the Roasted Carrots (P180) on the side—the roasting process brings out the natural sweetness of root veggie, which is then emphasized by burnt honey and cumin. 

For dessert, it doesn’t get any more quintessentially Aussie than Pavlova (P320)—Amurao keeps his fairly simple, topping meringue and cream with macerated berries and seasonal fruit (cherries, in our case). His Bread Pudding (P400) maintains much of the nostalgic charm of classic versions, with added textural contrast from its toasty top layer. Stewed apples and lemon custard are precisely the fruity, tangy companions to take the edge off the richness of the pudding.

Easygoing nature of his food aside, Amurao remains thoughtful yet experimental in his approach. Clearly, the young chef has a lot of fun designing the dishes then bringing these ideas to life, highlighting the flavors of his time Down Under and using local, seasonal ingredients in the process. The result? A spectrum of dishes that are effortless pleasers, all with personality as cheeky and creative as Amurao himself.