(SPOT.ph) Carlo Alvarez is on a roll. At only 28, he’s established three specialty restaurants in just four years—the very highend Wagyu Studio, Izakaya Geronimo which he shares with partners, and his newest which specializes in American-Italian pizza, Carlo’s. That’s not counting the Japanese-Thai-themed, omakase-style dining place he co-owns in Roppongi, Tokyo called Bia.
Of all his restaurants, Carlo’s, which opened in BGC this April, is his most personal yet, thus his name on its glass window. “I wanted it to be the kind of restaurant that serves the things that I want to eat on my off time…but in a nice setting for me to enjoy them,” says the restaurateur, all bright-eyed and friendly aura, wearing his initials on a chain around his neck: CLA, letters flanked by a lightning charm and a smiley face. Which we take to be both hallmarks of his persona: a fast mover and a jolly spirit. “Don’t get me wrong. I love Chili’s and I love their mozzarela sticks," he says. "I love calamari and all those things but I also want a nice setting to enjoy these things. I like it sexier.”
He goes on: “We’re not trying to push that many boundaries here but we’re trying to be reliable for people (and be a place) where they can get their fix of whatever their looking for, whether it’s pizza, pasta, or appetizers,” Alvarez elaborates. To let the Carlo’s Instagram profile say it, he wants this to be “Your friendly neighborhood restaurant.”
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Carlo's is more New Haven-style pizza
Top on Carlo’s list of comfort food is pizza and his many travels have shaped the specific kind he finds the most comfort in, which he thinks Filipinos will like as well. “We’re not the 100% New York kind of pizza (because) we still have some puff in our dough, but we’re not also Neapolitan," says Alvarez, who works with Chef Morris Manalo, formerly of Manila House and a mano. What Carlo’s offers is a cross between American and Italian, he adds, with all the familiar toppings such as pepperoni, mushroom, and sausage (Carlo's is house-made), and five-cheese but served with a pie that is beautifully blistered by open fire. “This is personally the kind of pizza I prefer because I don’t see restaurants in Manila that char their crust. I feel char gives pizza a character aside from the toppings.”
According to Carlo, what resonates closest to their style is New Haven pizza, referring to the Connecticut style of cooking the pie over a coal-fired oven, as opposed to most American pizzas which are cooked in a deck oven (think S&R). Carlo’s uses the Alfa Napoli Series professional pizza brick oven that can achieve the char effect of woodfire but using gas. If you are seated by the bar, you will get a full view of this sleek, white-tiled dome oven that adds that Italian vibe to the place’s interiors.
Apart from the familiar pizza flavors, also on the menu are what Alvarez describes as ‘left-field’ flavors. Spicy Vodka, a pesto-based pizza with vodka, has become a new favorite among TikTokers who have dined here. There’s also the Bourdain Pizza which is a reinterpretation of the late Anthony Bourdain’s favorite sandwich made with generous servings of mortadella, cheese, and mayonnaise mixed with mustard.
Carlo also recommends trying the Bottarga and Broccoli pizza that is topped with roasted broccoli (tastes like French fries, he says) and karasumi (salted mullet roe sac) which he promises carries with it the taste of the ocean. All the pizzas come with three condiments: chili oil, garlic butter, and hot honey which is especially sourced from local honey farms in Palawan, where the Alvarezes come from. “These condiments are like my homage to Papa Johns,” says the Cordon Bleu-Tokyo graduate.
Beyond pizza, Carlo has a long list of personal comfort food favorites and everything is reflected on the menu he curated himself. For pasta, they serve Scampi, Pesto, Vongole, Bolognese, and even Mac and Cheese. The appetizers and desserts are shorter lists but are made up of classics such as Calamari and Mozzarella Sticks, and Tiramisu and Molten Lava Cake (this last one is quite simple but luxurious and heavenly).
Apart from lunch and dinner, Carlo’s also serves breakfast at 8AM but the morning offerings are limited to coffee at the moment. Just like pizza, Carlo has a keen taste for good coffee which he developed in Japan where he lives half the year. “I’m big on coffee and that’s my routine in Tokyo. I wake up every day at 8 and then force myself to try a new coffee shop—mostly mom and pop shops run by young owners,” he shares.
Carlo’s currently serves different kinds of lattes, espressos, and cappuccino but this menu will soon expand with artisanal pour over coffees as he partners with The Good Cup of Coffee Company founder Gio Visitacion for his bean supply.
Pizza joint but make it chic
As a restaurateur, Alvarez places food and ambiance on the same pedestal and admits that sometimes he spends more on the build out. He especially tapped Hong Kong-based Filipino architect JJ Acuña to design Carlo's and has only good things to say about the latter's work. “I’m very honored that he let me be his first client for a specialty restaurant,” Alvarez says. The design concept takes off from a classic New York-Italian restaurant but being a Japanophile, there are a few Japanese touches such as the use of light wood.
The interiors exude a sophisticated but casual dining vibe. A see-through glass door and windows instantly welcome guests. Inside, Milan-red tiles are dominantly used for walls and the bar area. The layout of the place is such that it allows solo diners or groups to find their own private space in a public setting, thanks to seating options customers may choose from. There are cushioned booth seats that comfortably seats four, there’s the typical chair-and-table seating for groups of four to eight, and there are bar stools—if there’s just two of you or if you’re just in for a quick sip of coffee before heading to work.
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All artworks on the walls are from Carlo’s personal collection, most of which are done by New York artists. By the oven counter hangs a caricature of Carlo’s and above it, an unexpected poster of Garfield, adding lightness and humor to the place. “Because he’s an American creation that loves lasagna,” the restaurateur explains, smiling.
Carlo’s won’t be the last we see of this dynamic restaurateur, for sure. As a foodie with half his heart in Japan, he is sure to make waves in the food scene in both countries. In fact, he is set to open an izakaya in Roppongi. “I just kind of wanted to show people from here that we have a shot in global pedestals like Japan as long as you put in the effort and you know what (tastes) good and bad,” Alvarez says. At 28, Alvarez represents the new blood that can bring exciting new flavors and concepts to local, maybe even Japanese, dining.
“What it all comes down to is confidence in yourself," he says, sounding like he's dispensing career advice. "If you really believe in what you’re doing, if you think your taste is something that a lot of people would agree with, then give it a shot."
With interview by Jerome Gomez
Carlo's is located at the Ground Floor of the Asian Century Center, Bonifacio Global City. Call 09285522756 or visit their Instagram.