Sea.food by Chele Gonzalez
Aqua Boracay, Bulabog Beach, Balabag, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan
Contact: 0956-543-5602
Facebook: www.facebook.com/sea.foodbychelegonzalez
Open from 6 to 10 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday
(SPOT.ph) Maybe it’s the very nature of the location as an island—sunny skies, sand in between your toes and all. But Boracay trips are best completed with a feast of fish, shellfish, crustaceans, and other gems of the ocean, cooked your way. The genre is vast after all; you’ve got your multitudes of species to choose from, not to mention the array of cooking methods, cuisines, and flavor profiles to tackle them on with. Sea.food by Chele Gonzalez explores this diversity in the kitchen, with the eponymous chef bringing contemporary flair to the bounties of the sea.
Also read: Thai Curry Crab, Piri-Piri Scallops + More New Eats to Discover at Boracay's Well-Loved Restos
This seafood restaurant in Boracay pays ode to the sheer versatility of fish, shrimps, crabs, and more:
Chef Chele Gonzalez sure has a penchant for cooking across different styles and genres. The Spanish chef is known for helming fine-dining spots Gallery by Chele in BGC and Samira in Tagaytay, along with deli and sandwich shop Deli by Chele and dessert venture Chef Chele’s Kitchen. Here at Sea.food—along with Chef de Cuisine Jaime Ramos and the rest of the team—he walks more on the casual side of the dining spectrum. That isn’t at all to say quality or flavors suffer; the deft hand in the kitchen and attention to detail is still present, albeit as applied to dishes that are easy to approach for folks of all ages.
Stationed within Aqua Boracay (specifically, right by their pool), Sea.food presents itself in an elegant fashion. Shades of blue and green greet you as you enter—consistent with the ocean theme, and making for a seamless transition from the rest of the resort. You’ll find teal walls lining the Eduardo Calma-designed space, its tables decked in teal tablecloth with coral-esque ornaments all around. With the occasional potted foliage, there’s a tranquility to the space, while minimally placed lamps illuminating the dim spot just a touch without overwhelming the senses.
Dive into the menu and you’ll find full-on, hearty flavors all around. Expect to tour the world by taste, with their array of dishes from all over the world interpreted in Gonzalez’ own way. It’s wise to start with the Catch of the Day Ceviche (P490), their take on the Peruvian classic with the day’s catch, lime, corn, hazelnut, and watermelon gazpacho granita making for zingy, refreshing forkfuls. Similarly vivid is the Tuna Tataki (P550), with ponzu and a sesame dressing bringing out the clean taste of fresh tuna; and the Filipino-fave Kinilaw 2.0 (P480) of fish kept company by coconut milk, calamansi, pickled onions, and Thai basil.
Italian flavors shine in the Octopus Carpaccio (P580)—thin slices of tender octopus, plus the Italian-fave combo of lemon, extra-virgin olive oil, and shavings of parmigiano-reggiano to even its briny character out. A Chili Crab Salad (P950) takes after the Singaporean dish, interpreted as a vibrant salad; the Smoked Salmon Salad (P650) on the other hand highlights their own cured fish. Even simpler fare like the Gambas al Ajillo (P650) shine—in this case, with plump shrimps swimming in garlicky extra-virgin olive oil.
Mexican-style bites come by way of Grilled Shrimp Tacos (P430) with frijoles, pickled shallots, and mango. Indonesian, anyone? The Octopus Satay (P590)—with its rich, subtly sweet peanut sauce and marinade—is the way to go. To arm these plates, take your pick from their tipples fashioned by Jericson Co and David Ong of The Curator. The Teqtonic (with Blanco tequila and Benedictine brightened by lemon and coconut) perfectly mimics a stroll at the beach, while the initially-citrusy 3 Dots and a Dash is a silent killer with white rum, dark rum, and Falernum.
From there it’s time to tuck into their heavyweights. The Southern Fish Curry (P690) makes for a soul-warming main, with tender chunks of red snapper in a hearty curry sauce. Equally comforting is the Grilled Catch of the Day with Creamy Bisque (P690), a rich French stew of the day’s catch, confited potatoes, cauliflower, and leeks. More on the fiery side is the Korean Grilled Squid (P650) brushed with gochujang for a more-than-welcome kick. Outside the seafood realm, the Roasted Lamb Shank (P1,200) is another course not to be missed with its fork-tender, moist-as-can-be meat.
And then you’ve got your bigger plates to share. With Gonzalez’ Spanish roots, it’s no surprise the Seafood Paella (P1,200) is a standout, its rice being on the wet side and the seafood being rightfully succulent as heck. The Grilled Lobster (P900/100 grams) doesn’t hold back, either, delivering juicy bites kissed ever so lightly with smokiness.
Easily relatable to the Filipino is the Sweet and Sour Lapu-Lapu (P290/100 grams), which goes extra with its whole-fish presentation, the flesh cross-cut, breaded, and dressed in a glossy, tangy sauce. (Pro tip: this is perfect sopped up with the Cebu Lechon Fried Rice, P890.) Simpler but no less stellar in its own right is the Roasted Catch of the Day with Garlic and Vinegar (P250/100 grams), with the simple roast preparation allowing the natural taste of the fish underneath to shine.
To be able to offer an abundance of choices without overwhelming the diner or having quality suffer is an art—one that Sea.food by Chele Gonzalez masters. Distant as the influences and countries of origin of their dishes may be, they’re united by way of delivering vibrant flavors and use high-caliber ingredients where fitting. The seafood genre is as diverse as it is versatile; we say heed the restaurant’s advice and embrace it.
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