Antonio’s Chef Cyrille Soenen Jazzes Up Lamb Confit With XO Cognac

(SPOT.ph) You're bound to rub shoulders with a variety of alcoholic drinks over the course of your life. Maybe you start downing mixto tequila shots by the dozens in college (no shame), then turn to craft cocktails as your stress-buster of choice as you enter the workforce, then seek out higher-end champagnes at events as you go up the ladder, and soon go out of your way to try rare brands of Scotch at your resident speakeasy. See, you're a grownup now. And at some point you'll find yourself face to face with cognac—the distilled spirit and type of brandy made with specific varieties of grapes in France's Cognac region. (More on that shortly.)

Within the world of cognac, of course, is the powerhouse that is Rémy Martin. The French firm’s been around the 1700s, and remains a top-of-mind choice for fine cognac that stirs the senses. But it isn't just for drinking; their famed alcohol can also be used to also add oomph to savory dishes, and taken in tandem with them too. This much (and more), we came to see at the Dine For Excellence dinner by esteemed French chef Cyrille Soenen, recently held at Antonio’s PGA Cars.

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Here's what went down at the recent collaboration dinner by Rémy Martin and Antonio's PGA Cars' Chef Cyrille Soenen:

Think cognac and what likely comes to mind are images of luxury cigars, velvet-lined steakhouses, perhaps even Louis Armstrong hits playing in the background. Quick basics: the French darling of a spirit-slash-wine (as some would argue) is made of grapes—some of the varieties for cognac being Ugni Blanc (also called Trebbiano Toscano), Folle Blanche, and Colombard grapes from the, well, Cognac region of Southwestern France—that are fermented, distilled twice to produce what’s called eau de vie (water of life), then aged in special oak barrels and blended with other eau de vie. The result is a truly exceptional beverage that’s comparable to brandy or whisky in a way, with a generally sweet, spiced, warming, fruity character that can differ depending on factors like the oak barrels it ages in, how long it’s been doing so, and so on.

Technicalities aside, the best way to fully get to know anything is to experience it. And experience it we did, as we found ourselves sniffing and sipping our way through three signature bottles on Rémy Martin cognac line—while noshing on equally superb plates prepared by Soenen and team. Think food and wine pairing, but with cognac as the wine, which arguably takes things down the more elegant direction—or at least stirs the senses in a completely different but equally captivating way.

Chef Cyrille Soenen could well be named the most sought-out French chef in Manila, having famously helmed Brasserie Cicou in San Juan and Impressions at (the then-open) Maxims Hotel, and inducted as Maîtres Cuisiniers de France (or "Master Chef of France") for his expertise on classic French cooking. Today, he’s also Executive Chef of Admiral Hotel Manila - MGallery apart from the aforementioned EDSA branch of Antonio’s. For the dinner, Soenen sought to whip up savory and sweet plates meant to complement the distinct qualities of each cognac—and incorporating the actual cognacs in the dishes in different ways. After sipping on Rémy Martin cocktails by the bar, we headed to the second level of Antonio’s for the highlight: the dinner.

Rémy Martin V.S.O.P., the brand’s flagship cognac, is one sophisticated chap that’s underlined by vanilla and oak, but also illuminated by notes of juicy, fresh-off-the-vine fruit. Relatively light and uncomplicated to drink with its mid-range body, it was just the thing to start us off—especially with Soenen’s Dry Aged U.S. Tenderloin to match. As the name implies the dish has U.S. tenderloin that’s dry-aged for 15 days, thus concentrating the beefy flavors; Soenen then serves it in the style of carpaccio, with thin slices of the raw tenderloin dressed with Dijonnaise that's lent depth by the V.S.O.P. cognac. A French bean salad on top—which was crisp and fresh alright, but also indulgent with the addition of bone marrow—added textural contrast to the mix.

From there we approached the burlier end of the spectrum, in the form of Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal. This fine champagne cognac—i.e., cognac with a blend of grapes from the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne regions—is made and named after King Louis XV’s bestowment of the reward of excellence to Rémy Martin in its namesake year. Present here is a fuller body that just about hugs the tongue with its seemingly caramelized, warm character and hint of spices (think gingerbread or fruitcake!). Its partner-in-crime—Soenen’s Chilean Sea Bass Confit accompanied by al-dente ginger gnocchi, guanciale, and beurre blanc infused with Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal—was a curious choice given its relative mildness in flavor. But its richness mirrored that of the cognac, and it sure doesn’t hurt that the fish melts in the mouth sans much effort.

Rémy Martin XO—another fine champagne cognac said to be made with a blend of “hundreds” of eau de vie by the brand’s Cellar Master—was the final spirit of the night. This is highly similar to the 1738 (if not almost indistinguishable at first) with its generally heady aroma, caramelized roundness, and full-bodied character, but a touch more savory, and thus better paired with a darker, more assertive dish. It seems Soenen thought similarly as the team brought out the Lamb Shoulder Confit to go with it. Loosely Middle-Eastern in inspiration, the dish had chunks of tender lamb that submit to the prod of a fork, in a deeply savory sauce intensified with Rémy Martin. This was paired with a sous-vide adlai risotto peppered with spices and dotted with sweet dried fruit—which likewise brought out the spiced notes in the XO, and made for a pair that tasted like… well, Christmas.

Dessert sealed the deal as Soenen served his Dark Chocolate Clafoutis made in part with local ingredients (64% Auro dark chocolate and fresh carabao’s milk), going by Rémy Martin ode to sustainability. In the centers of each warm pot were Cointreau-soaked fresh cherries—and oh, was the booze potent here, but happily so. Let’s just say we left our tables with faces red and our smiles reaching both our cheeks.

“By bringing together the craftsmanship of Rémy Martin and Chef Soenen’s world-class culinary expertise, we aim to demonstrate how the finest cognacs can elevate your overall dining experience,” says Rémy Cointreau Philippines’ Country Brand Lead Myke Soon in a statement. Though there’s no word about this particular menu having a repeat, we say it’s worth switching your sips for cognac on your next celebratory dinner.

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