At TMBrew + Bistro, The Manila Baker Makes Comfort Classics Their Very Own

TMBrew + Bistro 
G/F Imperium, Capitol Commons Park, Estancia, Capitol Commons, Pasig City
Contact: 0967-118-7931
Facebook: www.facebook.com/p/TMBrewBistro-61551620712674
Open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Monday to Friday), 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Saturday and Sunday)

(SPOT.ph) Oops, this side hustle got a little out of hand—not that the folks behind The Manila Baker are complaining. From their Basque burnt cheesecake to a full-blown brick-and-mortar in TMBrew + Bistro, it’s as if there’s no stopping the steady rise of what was once a two-person, apartment-based operation.

The other side to the story is just as interesting; chef-owner Chad Ayson confides that the hands behind the Baker weren’t always baking. “I actually specialize in savory dishes, and this is a return to what I’m passionate about,” he says. “Because a lot of the ‘hits’ were my, uh, improved versions of stuff I normally don’t like, I want to share what I feel I do well and personally enjoy.”

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TMBrew + Bistro by The Manila Baker at Estancia, Pasig

The Food, a.k.a. The Manila Baker's Takes on Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner

Think comfort classics, with subtle twists that make them distinctly The Manila Baker's. Ayson isn’t afraid to layer and experiment with flavor, even in the simplest of dishes—and the resulting plates are as nostalgic as they are memorably theirs.

The TMB Omelette (P 450) is a great way to ease newcomers into the way The Manila Baker is looking to do things, with its indulgent stracciatella and the smooth yet sharp tang of the torched hollandaise. They’re not stingy with the side salad, either, and you wouldn’t want them to be; the golden-raisin dressing is like a pre-dessert you can have in between bites of your omelette. And even if you’re not big on the greens, we can’t recommend the TMB Caesar Salad (P 405) enough. Apart from the traditional ingredients of a Caesar, you also get a slight kick of sweetness from the cornbread bits—the same cornbread that helped put this Baker on the map.

The decadent, stretchy curd of the omelette makes another appearance in the Ube & Stracciatella Mozzarella (P 495), served with pistachio olive oil and roasted cherry tomatoes and the establishment’s signature sourdough toast. We know—on paper, it doesn’t make the most sense, but we promise that it does on the palate. If you’re familiar with the French dish pommes aligot, this isn’t too far a departure from it; if you’re not, it’s cheesy potatoes done in the most extra way possible. The ube isn’t sweet here, but you get the full taste and texture of the root crop that it is, with the added fun of bright colors.

We like this next to the Pan Roasted Pork T-Bone (P 795), even though it does mean doubling up on the potato. This tender chop comes with a delightfully herbaceous salsa verde and a punchy brown-butter-and-honey jus that hits the taste buds somewhere between modern American barbecue and the Filipino penchant for adding just a touch of sweetness wherever we can. Granted, it’s quite a specific take on the t-bone, but one we loved having on the cold, rainy afternoon we got to visit.

But if breakfast is your thing through and through, the Strawberry French Toast (P 450) is not an item you should gloss over. This is the closest to cake that adults can acceptably have first thing in the morning—unless the opinions of narrow-minded people simply have no effect on you, and hey, good for you—but we’d argue it might even be better than any theoretical breakfast cake. There’s a crunch followed by a tender crumb, blanketed in a warm kind of sweetness, then brought back up by the fresh fruit and crushed pistachio. You can’t not do it, especially paired with the Honey Lavender Tea (P 150) for a little extra warmth, or the smooth Cortado (P 160) for the caffeine boost we all seem to need these days.

What we Recommend

What is a bistro without a signature burger? Well, probably completely fine, but we say that now because the TMB Burger (P 575) has us feeling some type of way. Although we’ve been on a bit of a smash burger kick lately, this return to the heft of a classic burger is far from disappointing. The patty breaks monotone on its own by leaning into a chunkier texture, rather than being an ultra-uniform meat slab; this seems to give it extra surface area for any seasoning or sauce to spread over, creating a kind of harmonious flavor story with the sharp dijonnaise, sweet caramelized onions, and toasted brioche buns. We love this with the refreshing in-house sodas, particularly the Peach Fizz (P 195)—it’s fruit-forward and candy-sweet without sticking to the back of the throat.

Pasta is a real treat here, made fresh and cooked perfectly. There’s a bounce to the al dente noodles that you normally don’t get with dried pasta, and a certain soaking-up ability that lends itself well to any sauce. We have to highlight the Prawns (P 670) for this; the slight, briny pungency of squid ink spaghetti doubles up on the seafood, all cushioned by the garlic-shallot butter. If you’re on the fence, the Salmon Confit & Crab Fat (P 670) demonstrates many of the same Italian cooking techniques, but is also a little love note to Filipino flavors. It’s like if sinigang na salmon was a spaghetti dish, but in the best way possible.

The best deal on the whole menu would have to be the TMB Buttermilk Fried Chicken (P415). It’s basically everything everybody loves about fried chicken: Crunchy on the outside, juicy on the inside, generous portions, and a slew of stuff to slather on every bite. You’ve got your classic gravy, some honey butter, and pickled red onions; if you want a different flavor profile every time, that’s fully on the table.

But for low-key special occasions, dinner should include something like the Special Denver Cut Wagyu (P2,450). On top of the umami juiciness of a good, tender steak made even better with garlic and rosemary, the generous sides are enough to write home about. With every steak, diners are allowed to choose two from a long list of options; as much as we loved the Steak Rice (P95 when ordered separately), TMB does Mashed Potato well enough to justify ordering it twice.

On your way out, the Honey Oat Latte (P180) is just the thing—apart from a bag or two of leftovers or entirely new orders—to keep you company on your way home. The sweetness isn’t cloying, and you get all the richness of oat milk along with the blankety feel of honey; it’s a great introduction to coffee for non-drinkers—or, non-drinkers for now.

Something Old, Something New

Alisxandre Sy-Ayson recalls what getting the call for the space in Capitol Commons felt like: “We were close to panicking, kind of,” she admits. “We had always wanted to take that next big step, but we figured we’d consider it in, like, two years. But something about it felt like a sign.”

And so the bistro space retains many of the visual motifs that The Manila Baker kiosks have, echoing a mix of American art deco and those big European restaurant windows, plus a pleasantly neutral-ish palette that can go from day to night. “Since we’re expanding, we also want to stretch customers’ ideas of TMB,” adds Sy-Ayson. “We’re hoping the dinner crowd finds us the same way that the brunch crowd has.” We can certainly envision it; on cooler nights, the al fresco tables must look incredibly appealing, and you can almost see yourself enjoying a glass poured fresh from their wine list.

There’s a lot to love in this neck of the woods, for sure, but The Manila Baker is a welcome addition that might just have nearby residents competing for a table with those of us who are willing—happy, even—to brave traffic and park. That prawn pasta is entirely worth it. (But Greenhills natives may not need to wait long before they have a crack at even more new things that the Baker team has up their sleeves; watch this space.)

Photos by Majoy Siason

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