M Dining + Bar Gets a Glow Up
The new look is a conversation stealer but it doesn't distract from the food.
(SPOT.ph) The city’s well-heeled are rejoicing; after a six-month hiatus, their favorite dining room has finally reopened. M Dining + Bar, or M as it is fondly called by its patrons, has long been a favorite of epicures in the know.
With its hideaway location—the third floor of a nondescript building along a quiet Makati corridor—M has established itself as the perfect spot for every occasion -- from power lunch to date-night and everything in between. Now in its third iteration (M first opened in 2009 in Salcedo Village before moving to its current location in 2016), the exuberant new interiors, conceived by one of Manila’s leading creatives, Jonathan Matti, takes a sharp left from the dining room’s previous contemporary “less-is-more” genre. Restaurant manager Tippi Tambunting says they chose to embark on a major redesign “to freshen up the space and give their diners a new experience.” Coincidentally, M is also celebrating its 15th anniversary this December.
M Dining: An extension of its regulars' dining rooms
While M has always been a sophisticated restaurant with white linens and precise polished service, Matti has managed to amplify its glam and glitz with his penchant for layering the visual experience. As only someone with his eye and vision can do, he has successfully brought together rich colors while engaging in a strong game of pattern play. The result is a space with a point-of-view -- think traditional elegance punctuated with “shock of the new.”
The reception resembles an entry-foyer of an aristocratic townhouse with its grand chandelier, a collection of prints, sculptural art, and an antique table that sits on a floor laid with patterned machuca tiles. “I wanted to make it more like a home since M is an extension of its regulars’ dining rooms,” says Matti. “I knew it had to be layered, sensual, and above all, memorable.”
As one makes their way through what Matti refers to as “the spine” of the restaurant, the bar, main dining room, and private room are slowly revealed. Lining the Baldwin-esque corridor wrapped in a Chinoiserie bamboo wallpaper are mirrored French doors leading nowhere, an artifice of sorts, again meant to enhance the feel of a private home. A wood paneled bar, banquette seating, and billiard lights throughout further the new design proposition.
The new layout also allows for two private dining rooms, a six-seater and a 12-seater that can be combined to accommodate a larger group. The defining characteristics of these rooms are the burnt orange textured banana fiber wallpaper from Davao-based Tadeco plus artwork by Nicole Coson.
While the restaurant’s new look is a conversation stealer, it does not distract from the food narrative. The menu is about 80 percent new according to Tambunting, with more new dishes from the Tom Bascon-led kitchen rolling out in the next few weeks. Still, these are very much what its followers would expect at M. The food is not quite French or Italian, although the descriptor Modern European seems to fit the bill with the addendum of Asian flourishes and sensibilities.
How to best enjoy this new M Dining experience
Having visited twice in its first week back of operation, we definitely have an idea or two on how to best enjoy your next meal there.
Start at the bar—counter or table, your choice—and enjoy a Yuzu Martini with a few of the new bar chow nibbles such as the ikura, uni brioche, the lardo, maitake crostini, and a plate of hand-cut mentaiko French fries and don’t forget to order the classic M staple, a plate of Buffalo chicken wings.
When you are ready, make your way to the dining room, and start your meal with the new velvety good Crab Bisque, or the delightful Hearts of Palm Salad with Parmesan. Both dishes are loaded with just the right amount of umami to stimulate your palate.
Next up is a choice of one of M’s famous pastas, which we insist you have either as a main or for sharing with the table. You may be tempted to order an M classic like the Spaghetti with Uni, Crab, and Nori, and this would not be taken against you as it is as delicious as it sounds, but do not sleep on the new offerings such as the decadent Lasagna Cacio e Pepe or the lighter Puttanesca made with fresh tuna.
For your main course, we would highly suggest the Red Lapu Lapu Meunière, a plump piece of fish gracefully topped with tiny buttered croutons. Trust us, you cannot make this fish this good at home.
Another strong seafood option would be the elegantly-plated seared Scallops with Saffron Cream Sauce. If you are in the mood for meat, it’s a toss up between the perfectly cooked Glazed Beef Tenderloin with Baby Corn, and the soft and succulent Pork Belly with Edamame –Potato, both dishes sauced with Asian references.
Don’t forget to enjoy your meal with a libation—you are at M afterall, renowned to have the best wine list and wine service in the country, a 600-bottle-deep wine menu accompanies lunch and dinner service as does an extensive cocktail list.
For dessert, it would be remiss if not tragic if you didn’t order the new Banana Chocolate Cookie with Bananas Foster, and vanilla ice cream or the Stewed Apple Tart with Pastry Cream, but it would be unforgivable not to try the Canelés de Bordeaux with Salted Muscovado Ice Cream along with our M Favorite, the Ile Flottante.
M Dining + Bar is now open 7 days a week, Monday to Sunday for both lunch and dinner. It's located at the Third floor, Alegria Alta Building, 2294 Don Chino Roces Extension Avenue, Makati, 8810.3565