BGC's Spice & Soy Serves Creative Chinese Comforts in a Modern Space

Spice and Soy
2/F MITSUKOSHI BGC, 8th Avenue corner 36th Street, Bonifacio Global City
Contact: 0917-322-1273
Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Monday to Thursday), 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Friday to Sunday)

(SPOT.ph) MITSUKOSHI in Bonifacio Global City has added another gem to its roster of culinary spots—this time, of the Cantonese type. Spice and Soy has opened up its doors to serve stellar takes on nostalgic Chinese eats, new twists and flavors, and an all-around unforgettable meal.

Head to the second floor of the mall where you’ll spot their understated entryway right next to Catalan fave El Born, which just so happens to be a sister restaurant also under the helm of Yvonne Yao. When they secured the space for El Born, they knew it was time to open up a Chinese restaurant too; they had been looking for just that opportunity after striking up a partnership with Chef Lam Link Kui many years before.

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Creative Cantonese comfort dishes find a home at Spice and Soy in BGC

As Yao explains to us during a media lunch, they first heard of Chef Lam—or Chef Ben, as he’s more popularly known—when they became regulars at Makati Shangri-La’s Shang Palace. They were so impressed with his cooking that when the hotel was shut down during the pandemic, they set out to partner with him for their own restaurant, which became the casual concept Lam’s Kitchen, also in BGC. Now, they’ve set their sights on a more formal, but no less familiar and comforting, type of restaurant with Spice and Soy.

The space they’ve set up is clean and modern, with touches of wood that call back to their Chinese and even Japanese influences. You’ll find bright murals too. There’s even a teppanyaki grill on one side for fresh-cooked meats! And as for the menu, Yao tells us that she thought it best for Chef Lam to have free reign. “What’s more important is what he is passionate about to serve to customers,” she says. “I told him to cook what makes you happy.” And based on all the dishes we tried, it’s clear that he came up with a menu that makes everyone happy in return.

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What to try at Spice and Soy in Mitsukoshi BGC

The Fried Eggplant Pork Floss (P450) was a surprise hit for the restaurant that even non-eggplant lovers are converted by this dish—and it’s no surprise. Soft and flavorful eggplant is coated in a thin batter full of light spices then fried to crisp perfection, and then topped with savory pork floss. Even with all the flavors combined on this superstar plate, it still manages to keep a light profile that has you coming back for more.

The clean, unadulterated flavors continue in the Sauteed Scallops with Crab Meat & Egg White, a dish that resembles a plate of clouds, complete with a sunny yolk in the center. The pure taste of egg whites makes the perfect canvas for the subtly sweet mix of scallop chunks and crab meat, with the egg yolk melding them all together. Be sure to mix in a splash of Chinese black vinegar for an uplifting little zing.

Now we get into the heavyweights. The Steamed Pork Belly Muy Chai (P680) is a winning take on the staple pork dish. This hefty bowl is a sure crowd-pleaser with incredibly fork-tender slices full of fat and meat, all smothered in a thick, spice-filled sauce—think soy brightened by herbs, complementing the porcine flavors. The steamed broccoli keeps things from getting cloying, and yes, you will need rice to go with this.

The Hot Prawn Salad (P995) brightens any lazy Susan set-up, and if you’ve ever fought your cousins for the prized shrimp, you’ll know what we mean. We have to admit, this unique dish made with fruit cocktail, cream, and shrimp doesn’t make sense on paper, but on a plate? Hell, yes. This dish is a party of contrasting flavors and temperatures (cool cream-covered fruit and hot battered shrimp) and at this restaurant, they play it up even more with stellar ingredients and even more crisps loaded in. And yes, the huge chunks of fatty shrimp perfectly fried in the batter are worth the battle. Don’t worry, Spice and Soy makes sure there’s enough for several rounds on the lazy Susan.

Another staple is the Sweet and Sour Pork (P680), this time given a different depth thanks to the addition of walnuts. The twice-fried pork is soft and succulent, with the well-balanced sauce giving the crisp meat a bit more body and taste. The walnuts cap it all off with a bit more crunch and depth.

Now, while Chef Lam’s main expertise is Cantonese fare thanks to his Hong Kong upbringing, he does have some Szechuan flair too. Case in point: the Poached Fish Fillet With Chili Oil (P795). This dish brings in the heat with none of the pain. Chef Lam gently poaches fresh mahi-mahi then spoons over a hypnotizing concoction of chili oil, complete with the famed Szechuan peppercorns. This makes for a truly multi-layered dish, with the clean taste of the fish pairing up to the mildly numbing effect of the spices.

And what’s a celebratory Chinese meal without Peking Duck? While this gorgeous roast is usually reserved for special occasions, Spice and Soy makes it easier to choose this treat any time thanks to the option of a half serving at P2,800, or you can, of course, get a whole duck for P4,800 too. The roast duck was carved up tableside and prepared into little pancakes for us, complete with the sweet plum sauce and crisp greens—zero effort, all the fun. Nothing beats the combination of crisp skin and fatty duck meat with a little sweetness and crunch from veg, after all.

For the second way, we got the duck as Deep-Fried Salt & Pepper Duck Bones (P488). While the second way typically doesn’t get as much oohs and aahs as the first, Spice and Soy proves that it isn’t always like that. Their deep-fried version is just as impressive as their first serving of the roast, thanks to the perfect balance of a crisp and flavorful outside, with tender and juicy meat inside.

To wrap it all up was the staple mango dessert—but better. Their Mango Pudding, which is soon to land on the menu, comes in the shape of a koi. Yup, a bright yellow fish in the center of your dish made of subtly sweet mango pudding, complete with bits of the fresh fruit inside. Don’t forget to drizzle rich cream over it for the perfect balance of flavors.  

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How to reserve a table at Spice and Soy:

You can place a reservation by calling Spice and Soy at 0917-322-1273. The restaurant is at 2/F Mitsukoshi BGC, 8th Avenue, Corner 36th Street, Taguig City. Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday to Thursday, and from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday to Sunday.

For more information, check out Spice and Soy's Facebook page.

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