Chef Sharwin Tee Reimagines Chinoy Favorites at Tagaytay Pop-Up

(SPOT.ph) We all have our favorites in Tagaytay, but the second summer capital also welcomes new additions to the scene that keeps revisits fresh. One of the latest players to enter the arena is Ezra Viniti Resort, the first of the Ezra Resorts in an extremely secluded location—consider it the epitome of IYKYK. 

Apart from serving up quite the soul-soothing accommodations via its cabins (each home to a small fire pit for bonfires and private jacuzzis), bamboo garden (perfect for picnics or yoga sessions), and Shanaram Sanctuary, one of the resort’s highlights is its Epicurean Retreat, the resort's chef residency where diners are treated to a degustation menu specially crafted by a celebrity chef. Ezra Viniti's first resident chef is Chef Sharwin Tee, whose Little Grace popup (open until December 31) explores the chef’s relationship with the Chinese Filipino cuisine he grew up with and learned to appreciate.

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Little Grace by Chef Sharwin Tee at Ezra Viniti Resort Tagaytay

Chinese Filipino cuisine is underrated and as yet undiscovered, normally relegated to private homes. Tee channels the spirit of his grandmother—who taught him how to cook just by letting him watch her in the kitchen— into a 10-course meal that is as full of love as it is full of awe-inspiring flavors, as well as stories to go with it.

The meal starts with Tiam Sim, or snack, composed of multi-layered radish cake, a deconstructed chicken pie, and a meatball, all quintessential Chinoy snacks, served in a tiny tiffin container to evoke grade school lunches.

There is the Lumpia, its ingredients combined into a crepe and served with a dollop each of fried egg sauce, cilantro oil, and banana catsup, all house-made. 

No Chinoy celebration is complete without noodles. For Si Dit Misua, literally “birthday misua,” Tee handmakes his own misua, which is served with carrot vinaigrette and blackened cabbage, the dish held together by a 65 degree egg. Diners were given bits of youtiao (Chinese crullers) to sop up the remaining egg sauce with, though this might not be a regular feature since youtiao can be complicated to make properly. It’s a shame, as the curlers were delicious, and they added a playfulness to the eating experience.

The most intriguing (and surprisingly delicious) dish is the Kiam Tao Din, a soy milk-based soup flavored with aged black vinegar. Tee got the idea from a trip to Taiwan. A prawn (or scallop, if one is allergic to prawns), wood ear mushroom, and bits of spring onion sit on a bowl with black vinegar with hot soy milk poured in front of the diner. It’s a savory way to experience a common drink.

Pe Bok Ni, or white fungus in syrup with wolfberries and lime, acts as a palate cleanser. This snack is a regular sight in Chinoy households during the summer months, as its said to cool the body. Tee’s addition of lime adds brightness to the normally one-note sweet dish, elevating it beyond its humble beginnings. 

Tao Meng Tsai, which literally translates to ‘hair vegetable,’ is a common dish in Chinese lauriants. Tee doesn’t stray too far from the way its classically served, though he ups his version with collagen broth and the equally collagen-rich fish maw. The upgrade is noticeable, with the dish acquiring a rich, velvety texture. Locally sourced vegetables are used in keeping with Ezra’s push for sustainability.

“Beef and Broccoli” is actually Mayura Station Wagyu done to your likeness paired with oyster-flavored sauce made with sakura-smoked oyster and finished with bottled oyster sauce, roasted broccoli, and pickled ampalaya. This is one of the highlights of an already delightful menu, the beef tender, the sauce a dad joke turned delicious culinary experient, and the ampalaya, a bittersweet contrast to the rich dish that may change even the most avid ampalaya hater’s mind about the bitter gourd.

In a Chinese lauriat, the rice comes last to fill the stomachs of the still hungry. Tee levels up his grandmother’s recipe of cooking braised pork in Jasponica rice by topping it with HK style crisp pork belly, mustard leaf pesto, apple mostarda, and Japanese mayo that, when mixed, offer a rich medley of flavors and textures.

Another dish to look out for is “Amah’s Gulaman,” orange scented panna cotta served in an orange half topped with pineapple frozen yogurt and pineapple curd resting on a bed of Milo soil. It’s light and refreshing, made with local yogurt and pineapples.

Tsa is the tea course composed of green tea served in tiny cups paired with brown butter Malay Ko, or Malay cakes served in a drawer, a nod to grandmothers who always have snacks for their grandchildren hidden in cabinets. The pastry is derived from Malay rice cakes, hence, its name. Its not too sweet—the highest praise a Chinese elder can give a dessert.

Tee will be in Ezra until the end of December, for lunch (11 a.m. and 2 p.m.) and dinner (5 p.m. and 8 p.m.) from Thursdays to Mondays. With the holidays taking place and all, now is a good time to book a well-deserved vacation that includes a  memorable meal.

Ezra Viniti Resort is at Pagibig Street, 4120 Tagaytay. For reservations and inquiries, contact 0917-158-6078. For more information, check out Ezra Resorts' Facebook page.