Azela by Balay Dako Shines the Spotlight on Classic Filipino Food, Done Right

Azela
L/1 Center Atrium, Robinsons Manila, Pedro Gil corner Adriatico Street, Ermita, Manila 
Instagram: www.instagram.com/azela.ph
Open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday to Saturday

(SPOT.ph) One of the restaurant groups that have certainly made an impact on the way we eat in Manila is the Antonio’s Group. Their Tagaytay flagships are legendary—from the powerfully consistent Antonio’s, to the cool casual of Breakfast At Antonio’s, to the excellent classic Filipino dishes of Balay Dako. It used to be that any time one wanted to visit these places, it was a bit of a commitment: you had to put aside at least half a day—but really, more like a whole day—to get the full experience. It is a time to slow down and relish, for sure, and coupled with very high-quality dishes, it is always a welcome escape… but driving all the way there, and back, through traffic and other hassles—that was a hassle you had no choice but to embrace, and is a part of your time there.

Happily, that is no longer the case.

Time was when every fan of Chef Tony Boy Escalante would wonder, “When is he going to open in the city?” That time, dear reader, is now.

Antonio’s has an outpost along EDSA, and Breakfast is over at the brand new Opus Mall. But over in Robinson’s Ermita lies a nice surprise: an outlet of Balay Dako, rechristened Azela for Manila. It is currently one of my favorite Filipino restaurants, and maybe it will become one of yours, too.

Also read: The SPOT.ph 50 Great Restaurants of 2024: Best of Manila and Beyond

Azela by Balay Dako at Robinsons Manila

Named after Chef Tony Boy’s lola, and inspired by her cooking, it is the kind of place that will never be too hyped, but if you like your food, you will know after the first bite that you are at the beginning of a great eating experience. Lola Azela has her stamp on all of the group’s restaurants, mainly because of her philosophy: use the best ingredients you can get your hands on, and don’t shortcut anything. Do the process properly, make clean flavored food, and you will be rewarded with an excellent dish. And always know what it’s best to pair with. Simple tenets, but in this age when everyone wants everything quickly, is easier said than done to follow.

If you don’t frequent Robinson’s Malate much, you might be in for a surprise: it is packed, even on a weekday. Lots of tourists around, walking side by side with locals—sometimes I forget Manila is still quite a tourist destination. In an unsuspecting corner lies the space for Azela, and on the first week of operations when we visited, it was packed!

Now, classic Filipino food in a restaurant setting can be a tricky proposition, often ending in a pissing contest: “Why go out when we make great Filipino food at home?” Us versus them. Surely you’ve heard this many times, especially if mom or Tito Boy can bust out some wicked cooking skills. But it is a blessing to note that nowadays there are many Filipino joints that go the extra mile for you, resulting in deeper, nuanced flavors that we may not exactly have an easy time replicating at home. These are the establishments we must seek and celebrate, and Azela is definitely one of them.

They have an eclectic menu, perhaps not as vast as the mothership in Tagaytay, yet still packed with big happy flavors in unassuming guises. Take the humble Lumpiang Shanghai (P420)—their take on a common household staple. At Azela you can order them as is, or with a Vietnamese twist in what's called the Lumpiang Shanghai Wrap (P490), where it's rolled in a rice wrapper with crisp lettuce, radish and carrots, and dipped in nuoc nam. This was way better than our table expected, and a foretaste of things to come.

Crispy Fried Asohos (P280/small, P495/large), tiny anchovy like fish crisped til it was audibly crunchy, then topped with garlic, begs for a bath in their house vinegar (and perhaps a bit of rice, actually—a sentiment you may feel all throughout your time here). Vegetable lovers will like the Sariwang Kangkong at Hipon (P490), a salad of the blanched water spinach with shrimp, boiled egg, peanuts, tomatoes, and onions—a light counterpoint to everything.

Chef Tony Boy’s Negrense roots are on full display in their version of Kansi (P600/small, P860/large). For this, Azela, of course, uses fresh batuan—the souring agent that gives the soup its distinct taste—and takes its time forming the broth. In it are both beef and pork, as well as aromatics. Deep and soothing, it's one of the most soulfully flavored versions of the dish around.

To push you over the edge, choose your own adventure. Perhaps the Kare-Kare Klasik (P640/small, P1,100/large) with oxtail and tripe, in a sauce base of real peanut puree that they crank out themselves. It is rather tedious and not easily scalable, and the kind of work that is usually put into dishes for special occasions or fiestas, but here done on the daily. An example of the extra mile. Or if not that, the Crispy Maskara (P480/small, P900/large) might catch your eye—a hot take being that it is better than crispy pata, because the meat is way more tender and the skin remains crisp. Yes, it is face meat!

Sisig is remixed, too, in the form of the Sisig na Baboy (P380/small, P590/large) sprinkled with bits of Ilonggo chicharon for texture. Pork for even those who dont eat much pork. Choose one, or go crazy and get all, you decadent eater you, and have it with our favorite garlic rice (called Sinangag sa Bawang, P100), or the brilliant Pinakbet Rice (P590), which actually can be a meal in itself.

The quiet dish that the table got to try is apparently the chef’s favorite. On your first pass at the menu, you’ll probably even miss it; it reads Chili Peppered Stir Fried Chicken & Pork (P280/small, P490/large). The chicken is actually gizzard and heart, and the pork is pig ears and intestines. Stir fried with chilies and garlic. I know what you’re thinking—throw any skecticism out the window, as I had to do mine. The first bite felt tentative at best, but then it hits your taste buds. There is a reason why this is the chef’s favorite dish! It is a knockout. Eat it with spicy vinegar and be rewarded! This dish is certainly a cousin of Chinese cooking—but with Pinoy soul. If there were any time to try offal, this may be it.

If you have any room left for dessert, well, you know the drill. Antonio’s restaurants have made a quiet reputation for their ice cream, and is of course a natural choice to end your meal. But don’t turn your head away from other classics like the traditional Bibingka Special (P280), or Puto Bumbong (P130), or summer’s bestie—the Halo-Halo Klasiko (P250). Or even the future piyaya bar.

With a couple of decades of experience under their belt, the team behind all this - led by chef’s son Basti, and niece Patricia—is ready to gain more of a foothold in the big city, and we are all the luckier for it. They’ve recognized certain things, and have made adjustments—for example, you can order some dishes in sizes, for as little as two people, or for a big bunch—perfect for how we all eat. You will see them popping up in your favorite corners soon, sticking to Lola’s ethos of simply made but excellently done dishes. If you think their food reads interesting enough to bring your foreigner or balikbayan friends, you are absolutely right—not only will they enjoy, but you will too. If Antonio’s and Breakfast At Antonio’s belies Chef Tony Boy’s vision and heart for hospitality, Azela bares his soul. This is powerful, memory-inducing, quality Filipino cooking at its finest, and we cannot wait to try more.

One of the things you might miss on the table is that they co-branded and re-bottled Mang Tomas for themselves. It is a reflection of the vision of chef Tony Boy - his respect for those who produce excellence, and his nod to simpler times when people did not compromise and did things properly. The blueprint moving forward for him and his cohorts is not in reinventing the wheel, but in reinforcing its base, and keeping it moving for all to come along for the ride.

Photos by Jason Tan