FIRST LOOK: Raging Bull at Shangri-La at The Fort, Bonifacio Global City
Serious cocktails, legit steaks, guaranteed fun
(SPOT.ph) The name itself sets you up for what to expect. Raging Bull Chophouse & Bar is not a staid, mildewy steakhouse, nor is it trying to be modern and eccentric. It evokes a confident masculinity that is current, electric, and impeccably dressed. The dark interiors, with its polished finishings, are very Manhattan—more West Village than East with its quiet elegance that still manages to feel young.
Elegant but casual
Walking in, a well-stocked bar greets you with everything from small-batch gins to Midwestern bourbon. Their capable bartenders are hand-selected and trained extensively by the in-house mixologist, and you can tell by their brisk pours and calculated shakes that they know exactly what you need. Their prescribed bourbon-based Bonifacio Penicillin—bursting with refreshing citrus and ginger flavors—is exactly what any doctor would recommend after battling horrendous city traffic.
Bread game strong
The dining room comes alive with fun Motown hits and cool, classic rock, encouraging diners to loosen up a bit despite the fancy surroundings. To ease you into dinner proper, their refreshing salads would be a good place to start. Roasted root crops and custardy goat cheese balance acidity and richness in the Beetroot Salad; candied walnuts are added for good measure. Raging Bull's Caesar Salad is a purist's dream, the velvety 63-degree egg is a bonus.
Double Boiled Beef Broth
If greens aren't your thing, then the aromatic and dense Double Boiled Beef Broth, with its thin sliver of ox tongue and bone marrow, is a highly capable meal primer.
When in Raging Bull, you must treat yourself to the steaks. They might distract you with seafood and poultry, but the premise of this restaurant is really about the grass-fed, sustainable beef from Australia and the U.S. The Tasmanian tenderloin, despite the cut being typically lean, is almost as soft as the grain-fed rib eye. The Scotch fillet stands out with its unrivaled tenderness and profoundly meaty flavor.
Pick your condiment.
Pick your sauce.
Cooked in a Josper grill—that Spanish tradition of roasting that seems to be sweeping the steak world—their steaks are seared briefly to retain the inherent juiciness of the meat. They offer an array of sauces and mustards, but all it really needs is a sprinkling of salt. Try the one infused with porcini, it's delightful.
The side dishes don't hold back, either. Just that little casserole of potato gratin is classically done and rightfully rich.
Raging Bull must have a soft spot for desserts. Theirs are both generous and well-conceptualized. A favorite is the Candy Floss Pavlova with its fine mango sorbet center punctuated by passionfruit pulp. For custard lovers, their deconstructed spin on Creme Brûlée is fruity and flavorful.
Candy Floss Pavlova
Cookie dough a la mode
A picture of subtle class
The young staff of this beautiful establishment are bright and energetic, and it shows in the quality of the dishes and their efficient service. Raging Bull is good-looking, cool, and smart—that's a killer combination.
Raging Bull Chophouse & Bar is at 3/F Shangri-La at The Fort, 30th Street corner 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City. It will open in August.
Photos by Hans Fausto