G/F Main Building, SM City North EDSA, Quezon City
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
(SPOT.ph) Step inside Fat Fook in SM North EDSA and find yourself transported from a busy Manila mall to a quirky Taiwanese hole-in-the-wall that is surprisingly more spacious than it looks. The interiors combine the traditional with the modern, from the red accent pieces and porcelain dinnerware converted into lighting fixtures to stylized art telling us to have good food.
And good food we will have. For her first restaurant, Fat Fook's Taiwanese chef wanted to bring authentic Taiwanese food to the Philippines. And because she felt that Filipinos were more open to trying out new food concepts, she didn’t change anything from her original recipes that results in food that's truly what you would eat while ambling along the streets in Taiwan—except in generous-sized servings good enough to feed more than two people.
The Fried Intestines (P198) don’t resemble isaw, and neither do the flavors. Instead, these fried bites taste of a blend of spices that are uniquely Taiwanese. In lieu of a sauce, it comes with salt mixed with other secret spices for an extra punch of flavor. The Taiwanese Sausages (P288), on the other hand, are skewers of sausage whose glazed sweetness is broken by the heat of raw garlic.
Steamed Pork Xiao Long Bao
The Steamed Pork Xiao Long Bao (P138/five pieces, P198/eight pieces) is the star of their dim sum lineup. Each delicate dumpling packs a pork soup brimming with meaty flavor that bursts in your mouth in one bite. The sauce that comes with it only serves to enhance its flavors but the dumplings work well even without it.
Taiwan Style Fried Rice
Fat Fook Chicken Chop
The Taiwan Style Fried Rice (P258) is so tasty, you might forget to pair it with anything else. Served in a small pan, the rice is coated in a savory brown sauce with green onion, carrot bits, and lots of chorizo for sweet-salty bites. Pair it with the bestselling Fat Fook Chicken Chop (P238), which is marinated overnight before it's breaded and fried, resulting in juicy meat with flavor that will overwhelm your palate with every bite. You won’t even think about dipping it in any sauce.
Taiwan Beef Noodle Soup
If you’d rather warm up, have a bowl of Taiwan Beef Noodle Soup (P258). Beef bones are boiled for more than eight hours then chili and other spices are added to the resulting broth for a soup that packs a lot of heat and beefy goodness. The noodles are freshly made and hand-pulled in Fat Fook's open kitchen and the large beef chunks are mellt-in-your-mouth soft.
End on a sweet note with the Masachi (P128), which is the Taiwanese version of the Chinese favorite, buchi. Pillow-soft balls of sticky rice are filled with red bean paste and covered in crushed peanuts and sugar for a sweet textured ride.
A testament to the authenticity of Fat Fook’s cuisine are the groups of Taiwanese and Chinese customers who flock the restaurant in groups hoping for a taste of home. But even Filipinos have come to love this restaurant’s out-of-the-ordinary offerings. Fat Fook serves authentic flavors, delivering an intensity that will linger in your mouth and food that will stay in your mind until your next visit.
Photos by Hans Fausto