(SPOT.ph) There’s more to Italian cuisine than a bowl of spaghetti with tomato sauce and a slice of pepperoni pizza. Need to expand your horizons? We spotted just the place in Clark, Pampanga. A cozy dining area with an open kitchen headed by a Sardinian chef aims to expand the Filipino palate when it comes to Italian food.
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Italian Restaurant Ristorante di Verona as Swissotel Clark's Flagship F&B
Say ciao to Ristorante di Verona, the 10th dining destination of Swissotel Clark, officially opening on July 7. When the resort and casino opened in March, they had nine restaurants and cafés to sate the guests’ gastronomic needs. To launch their new flagship restaurant, they enlisted the help of Chef Alessio Loddo, who hails from Sardinia, Italy, and has worked in several hotel-based Italian restaurants around the Philippines.
“It’s fun dining, not fine dining,” he told the press during the preview on June 14. The interiors give off a rustic vibe with the al fresco section a little more casual, located across the pool area and most likely the seat selection of rowdy friends and families still dripping from their swim. For the discreet, they offer two private dining rooms.
But for the foodie, the best seats are indoors and center, where you can peek into the open kitchen and see the cellar displaying over 300 premium wine selections sourced from various regions, including a 1958 Pio Cesare Barolo from Italy and a 1990 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Cru Classe from France.
While they aim to keep the ambiance casual, the menu is not. Ristorante di Verona features a fine-dining menu priced higher than your usual resto franchise. The kitchen uses premium ingredients to keep the flavors true to their roots.
Case in point: For your bread dip and to garnish their dishes, they make their own balsamic reduction concoctions, which come in a variety of flavors, and use a 25-year-old balsamic vinegar of Modena, following the rules of a century-old Italian tradition.
As with most Italian restaurants, diners are treated to complimentary bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar as dipping. But Ristorante di Verona upped the game. You’ll be greeted with bottles of balsamic reduction in one-of-a-kind flavors, such as vanilla, coffee, chili, and truffle. Choose one or try a little bit of everything. But don’t overstuff yourself; a bigger feast awaits.
Advanced notice from Chef Alessio: You won’t find the usual carbonara or bolognese here.
Your Food Journey at This Italian Restaurant
After choosing your red or white wine, start with the antipasti, a.k.a. appetizers. We were treated to seven of the eight items on the menu.
Insalata di Mele, Gorgonzola, Balsamico di Moderna 25 Anni (P550) puts a literal twist on the classic Italian salad. The green apple is carefully cored and peeled into one long strip, and then reassembled into shape. The plate is garnished with gorgonzola and drops of 25-year-old reduced balsamic vinegar of Modena.
For something to share, go for the Affetati e Formaggi Misti, Crema di Carciofi, Pesto di Pomodoro Secco, Pate di Olive (P1,050), a platter of assorted cold cuts, cheese, and crisp bread with three dips—cream of artichoke, sun-dried tomato pesto, and a kalamata olive paste. For the cold cuts, you get prosciutto, air-dried and salted beef, dry-cured pork, and sliced salami. The cheese part of the equation comes by way of parmiggiano reggiano and gorgonzola.
A must-try that’s a classic in Italy but relatively hard to find locally is the Vitello Tonnato (P550), which was a crowd favorite during our visit. It pairs slices of roasted veal with a savory tuna sauce, briny capers, and peppery mizuna (Japanese mustard greens); you’ll want to get a little of everything in each bite for the full sensation.
Also try the Prosciutto San Daniele, Melone (P750), a traditional antipasti consisting of San Daniele ham with melon. The melon is in jelly form, and taking a bite delivers a balanced mix of savory and sweet.
If you want something a little more familiar, the Bruschetta, Parmigiana Reggiano 36 Mesi, Pomodoro in Cassetta, Pesto Genovese (P550) features sourdough slices topped with tomato cubes and 36-month-old parmigiano-reggiano. On the side is tomato terrine, a tomato concoction in jelly form that brightens up the meat. For the fun part, which you’ll soon notice is a theme in their presentations, the pesto Genovese is served in a squeeze tube.
Cheese lovers, you must have the Buffala Caprese, Pomodori, Olive Taggiasche, Olio Estra Verigine di Olive Terra di Bari (Castel Del Monte) (P700). A huge portion of buffalo mozzarella is served with sliced tomatoes, Taggiasche olives, and Terra di Bari extra virgin olive oil—and as simple as it sounds, it’s all a cohesive mix when all the elements come together. Meanwhile, carnivores can go for the Carpaccio di Manzo, Olio Extra Vergine di Olive IGP Toscano, Parmigiana Reggiano 36 Mesi, Salsa Cocktail (P950)—the star of which is black Angus MB3 (marbling grade 3) beef tenderloin, served with a cocktail sauce, arugula, IGP Toscana extra virgin olive oil, and 36-month-old parmesan cheese.
The restaurant has a whopping 14 choices of pizza—and these are our top three. For starters, they had us at truffle cream: the Uovo e Tartufo (P1,050) is an earthier alternative to everyone’s favorite quattro formaggi. This white pizza comes topped with béchamel sauce, buffalo mozzarella, egg, and the magic ingredient that we could smell from afar—truffle cream.
For a simpler but no less sumptuous bite, try the Salame Piccante (P750). It upgrades the more familiar pepperoni-pizza combo with spiced salami and black olives, along with tomato sauce and mozzarella on their signature crust. Last but not least, the Prosciutto e Rucola (P800), is a work of art with its arrangement of tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, arugula salad, San Daniele ham, and parmesan cheese.
For a stick-to-your-ribs dish, you can’t go wrong with risotto, and Swissotel Clark whips up two signature variations. A zestier option available in a platter to share, get the Risotto Al Pesto Genovese con Aragosta (P3,150) a pesto risotto with lobster and a topping of culinary foam.
For a lighter serving, the Risotto Allo Zafferano con Salsiccia Luganega (P850) is a fragrant saffron risotto with luganega, a traditional Italian pork sausage.
Their pasta dishes are proudly “fatta in casa,” which means homemade or handmade. Six dishes are highlighted on the menu, and we sampled three:
The aromatic Tortelli di Stracotto di Manzo con Crema di Panna Al Tartuffo (P850) is a plate of braised beef and spinach tortelli with cream and parmigiana truffle. You’ll find yourself swirling your tortelli around the plate to lap up the creamy truffle sauce. And if it’s a real homey bite you crave, try the Cannelloni di Magro, Pomodoro e Fonduta di Formaggio (P800)—one of Chef Allesso’s specialties that do not skimp on the comfort element. You get a tray—not to be mistaken for lasagna—of tubular pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese and spinach, smothered generously in a sauce of tomato and cheese with a charred crust.
Finally, for a family-friendly pasta dish, try the Malloreddus Alla Campidanese, Pecorino Sardo (P560). You get a deep plate of malloreddus pasta (a.k.a.Sardinian gnocchetti or shell-shaped pasta) topped with Campidanese, a meaty tomato sauce, and sprinkled with pecorino sardo cheese.
And now the big players of the feast—six savory main courses, catering mostly to the carnivores. You won’t go wrong with the Agnello Al Forno, Crosta di Pistachio (P2,700), a huge serving of juicy lamb rack crusted with crushed pistachio to add texture. Craving steak? Try the Filetto di Manzo, Patate Al Tartuffo (P2,650). You get a thick slab of Black Angus MB3 (marbling grade 3) Australian tenderloin with a side of truffle-baked potato.
If money is no object, then ask for one of the most expensive steaks in the world. Bistecca Tomahawk Alla Grigilia con Patate, Spinaci al Burro e Carrote (P12,500) is a tender slab served on a literal silver platter with a side medley of potatoes, spinach, baby carrots, and homemade bearnaise sauce.
You’re also bound to go “winner winner, chicken dinner” with the Polletto Alla Diavola, Pomodori al Limone, Crochette di Patate, P850— a half-sized chicken diavola (a.k.a. “devil’s chicken) grilled and served on a bed of lemon tomatoes and a big potato croquette. Also don’t miss the Cotoletta Alla Milanese, Patate Arrosto, Rucola (P3,150)—a classic dish from Milanese Lombardy cuisine. A breaded veal cutlet is pan-fried in butter and served with roasted potatoes, sliced tomatoes, and arugula drizzled with their specialty balsamic reduction.
Pescetarians, don’t fret! They have the Filetto di Branzino, Zucchine Alla Piastra, Crema di Pepperone Affumicato (P1,150). This fillet of seabass is pan-seared with butter and served with zucchini. A blob of culinary foam—the smoked bell pepper cream—adds both flavor and presentation.
Before going ham on the savory dishes, be sure to save room for dolci, a.k.a. dessert. There’s the Cannoli Siciliani (P350). The pastry shell is filled with candied fruit, crushed chocolates and pistachios, and ricotta. It’s served with a fun twist—the crema di noci (walnut cream) comes in a squeeze tube. You’ll notice by now that for a more interactive dining experience, they serve side sauces in a squeeze tube—which you will either love or hate.
The Tiramisu (P450), slightly deconstructed, is as good as it looks. It’s not your usual tiramisu as the fillings and layers are arranged in bars and dollops—but you get that familiar tandem of mascarpone, chocolate, and coffee as everything comes together. Meanwhile, it’s hard not to swoon over the Crostata di Fragole (P400)—an Instagrammable version of a strawberry tart, if you will. Here, a solo-sized crust is filled with a hefty serving of creamy mascarpone and topped with sliced strawberries, mint leaves, and chocolate drizzle. For your chocolate hankerings, the Mousse di Ciocolato Croccante di Nociole, Salsa di Lamponi (P650) is a decadent composition of chocolate mousse, hazelnut crocant, and raspberry salsa.
For the indecisive, the Panna Cotta Alla Vaniglia, Gelatina di Mango e Fragole (P350) is a two-for-one treat. You get a mango jelly with strawberry salsa in double wall glass and a plated vanilla panna cotta that’s made with real vanilla beans. And for coffee lovers, the Gelato Allo Zabaglione Affogato (P250) will hit the spot. Essentially an affogato with a tinge of fun, this dessert has you pour in the espresso shot on the cup of Sabayon gelato and whipped cream; you’re then to squeeze out the hazelnut chocolate from a tube before devouring the perfect caffeinated dessert.
In true Italian tradition, cap your feast with a shot of digestif, an alcoholic drink that aids in digestion. There’s an overwhelming list of digestivos on their menu, but we can vouch for the Luxardo Limoncello, P250, a lemon liquor that they make in-house. Saluti!
With dozens of Italian restaurants crowned yearly as the best, Ristorante di Verona aims not to dethrone, but to show us that there's life beyond creamy carbonara and spaghetti bolognese. It's worth the long drive to Clark.