Somm's Table
Bolanos street, Legazpi Village, Makati City
Contact: 0945-975-6772
Facebook: www.facebook.com/sommstable.ph
Open from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 6 to 9:30 p.m., Wednesday to Monday
(SPOT.ph) Some might declare this a resurgence of French cooking, but if we’re being honest, Escoffier never left us. But it is nice to return to the classics, and by the classics, we mean exactly what you imagined a sophisticated dinner to be when you were a kid—with a slight whimsical swivel thrown in. Chefs Raphael Gries and Julian Sobolewski take on French fusion at Somm’s Table armed with enough years of training to know when to take detours, and spoiler alert: those years are paying off.
And that’s not to say that there’s anything cartoonish about this place—apart from the Dragon Ball Z mural in the furthest hidden corner—but there is something cookie-cutter fancy about it, barring the fact that it’s located in a basement parking. Darkened windows conceal a terra cotta floor with pale walls and several points of soft, focused light, but the sight to see for the truly food-driven is the refrigerated display case. Some people dream of French doors, but the proud weirdos want to give salami Milano or jamon serrano their time in the spotlight before snarfing it down with an Amaretto Sour (P400).
French classics get sophisticated spins at this wine bar in Makati:
Weirdo or otherwise, you’re in for beautiful twists on old favorites, showcasing intense flavors and varying textures in turn. You get a glimpse into the chefs’ baking experience with the complimentary bread and delightfully salty butter—which might call for wine that you can trust the staff to recommend, even if you’re not much for tasting notes and such.
To start, we recommend the Goat Cheese Gazpacho (P350) and the Smoky Caesar Salad with Speck (P480). The cold soup of Iberian origin is fresh yet filling, not being completely blended through. The soft, chunky texture is welcome, giving the diner a better idea of the quality of the ingredients that went into the dish. The bright veg goes well with the lettuce in the Caesar salad, then is contrasted by the crunch of the croutons and the saltiness of the smoked ham. But the smokiness doesn’t end there—rather, it begins when the enormous bowl arrives, and the lid is lifted. You’ll see.
Since we’re already on the train of comforting classics, the Bresse Yellow Chicken (P1,490) sounds intimidating, but trust and believe that this golden brown goodness holds its own against any palate. With its bed of creamy wild mushroom, you can’t not break into that delicate, crispy-yet-tender Potato Gratin (also available separately at P250) to maximize the experience. If you’re looking for sweeter-leaning sides, the Creamy Spinach (P280) or Corn Mash (P280) could be a better option. Especially the latter—it’s corn, it has the juice.
If you’re looking for a real adventure with some greater contrast in flavors and textures, the Onion Soup (P310) would be the ideal starter. The soup is arguably about to become the most expensive thing on the menu, given that it’s served in a giant, softened, hollowed-out white onion, topped with 36-month-old parmesan. Don’t let that edible bowl go to waste—soak up the last remnants of the salty, pungent-sweet broth with the crusty sourdough, then slice up the onion and go to town. Then have the Lumpia Duck Confit and Foie Gras (P490), which only sounds intimidating. Really, it’s just soft shreds of duck in a lovely, familiar, crunchy, fried wrap with a truffle dip. It’s not as overly rich as it sounds; if anything, it’s either a great introduction to foie gras or a fun use of duck.
The Moroccan Lamb Ragu (P790) is a bit of a left turn from the lumpia, but with the wide noodles and so-cohesive-it-almost-doesn’t-register-as-meat-sauce sauce, plus that slight earthy gaminess that you get with this alternative, as opposed to the standard beef ragu. This is the dish that might have you ordering a second; you’ve been warned.
For the more ocean-oriented, it has to be the St. Jacques Scallops (P490) and the Egg Nest (P630) to start. The scallops here are not difficult, as some might think of them; as fluffy as seafood can get, they’re both brightened and kept grounded by the pea mash and asparagus. The latter is served with salmon slices, 20-year-old Amurian caviar/imperial caviar from the river Amur, stylized here as ‘amour’ (because why not) and some polarizing gold flakes. It’s indulgent, for sure, but that doesn’t subtract from the complexity of flavor and balance of texture, from delicate crunch to oozing egg.
Follow with the Pan-Seared New Zealand Salmon (P780)—and, you know what, it’s hard to make salmon stand out in the sea of ways you can eat it, but the seemingly random apple chutney and cushion of steamed greens make it easier to appreciate the buttery fish and lightly crispy skin. And on the side, we recommend the Burned Cauliflower Purée (P290). This one is a little hard to describe, but there’s a smoky sweetness that we think helps make the salmon more filling, while reading like a rich, peppery cream sauce. But if you’re looking for an even heftier companion for the salmon, the Green Asparagus and Pea Risotto (P540) hits you in a cozy place without dragging you down; it’s fresh but rich, with the fun snap of edamame.
Any of these could use the Ginger Papa (P450) as an in-between palate cleanser, if you choose to order in courses. One of Somm’s Table’s signature cocktails, it’s everything it says on the tin and more—a warm, overall piquant tone comes through despite the cold drink, with hints of herbaceousness. It’s well worth traipsing leisurely through the whole meal just to finish with the Apple Tatin (P310), a little rose of stewed and sweetened apples on a butter biscuit you shouldn’t underestimate, with a scoop of in-house ice cream. If you want to remember them in the morning after too, get a Pain au Chocolat (P60) or three; at that price point, it’s almost a disservice to the self not to.
And while all of this does scream fourth date or second anniversary dinner, we’re taking a stand for solo dining at Somm’s Table. If you don’t already live in or around the Salcedo area—because then this could be your next neighborhood deli to explore—we implore you to be brave and treat yourself here. You don’t even need a special occasion to celebrate (or heartbreak to get over); go ahead and normalize getting fancy for fancy’s sake.
Photos by Majoy Siason
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