The New Menu of Mrs. Saldos Showcases the Sprightly, Hearty Flavors of Southeast Asia

(SPOT.ph) Packing our bags and flying out to travel arouses excitement like nothing else—maybe it's the sheer novelty of exploring unfamiliar paths, or the premise of learning from other cultures while sharing tidbits from our own. It's especially exhilirating to fly out to other countries in Asia; we've got our share of similarities given our proximity to one another, but also marked differences to pique the Filipino's curiosity.

Chef Rhea Rizzo understands this sentiment, being a frequent traveler herself who especially loves learning about other cultures through their food. And she expresses this love at her private-dining refuge Mrs. Saldo's in Silang, Cavite, as she recently debuted a new Asian menu paying ode to some of Rizzo's top discoveries around the continent.

Also read: This Private Dining Spot in Cavite Highlights Global Flavors in a Lush Bohemian Setting

Peep the new Asian menu of Cavite private dining spot Mrs. Saldo's:

The thing about traveling, Rizzo explains, is that it “opens you up” in different aspects, “from the heart from your mind physically.” “I've always believed that whenever you can afford to, you always have to travel,” she explains, citing how it lets you realize “how small you are.” “There's just so many different cultures out there that'll probably resonate with you. Nothing's right or wrong, but it's just amazing when you latch on to that culture, you learn from it, and you come home a better person.” And though she admits not all travel experiences will be great (“Sometimes you get into bad situations,” she quips), there's something to be learned either way. “I always come home a better mom, a better wife, a better boss, and a better chef.”

Mrs. Saldo's opened in late 2021, wowing the food-loving crowd of Manila who would go out of their way to drive out to their headquarters in Silang, Cavite. They've continued to become a favorite, and much of their space looks the same: the famous blue door and engraved plate of their moniker, the famously picturesque dining room with works of art on the wall, the al-fresco spots that offer the best of Silang's breezy climate—but Rizzo also says she's grown in many ways since they made their debut. They've got a more stable lineup now as opposed to trying to change their menu on daily, weekly, or even monthly bases—which she admits was “operationally very difficult.” And though she previously focused more on family sharing portions, now she does individual courses that are great for smaller groups.

Whenever possible, Rizzo—who's worked for the likes of the Indian culinary superstar Gaggan Anand—likes to take cooking classes at local schools abroad, aiming to learn the traditions, techniques, and logic behind certain cooking decisions. She honors memorable dishes she's tried from her travels in Mrs. Saldo's new Asian set menu (P3,900/head), which features her interpretations of these global favorites. If you can, definitely go for wine pairing option while you're at it (additional P3,000/head). Behind it is Chef Rhea's partner Dave, who happens to be WSET-certified, and who worked with the Uvas Wine Club's Butz Tenchavez for the lineup; featured are specialty bottles from smaller, mom-and-pop type brands in the U.S. that are otherwise hard to find in these parts.

Past nibbling on Mrs. Saldo's house sourdough (whose crust makes the perfect crackle as you break a piece into two with your fingers), we sink our teeth into the small yet impactful bite of “Sour Cream & Chives”—itself creamy from the chive-imbued sour cream topping and crunchy from its crispy-noodle base. While sipping on the crisp, effervescent Pierre Paillard “Les Parcelles” Champagne NV we proceed to a trio of starters. Inspired by the signature white pepper crab dish at Singapore's Signboard Seafood, Rizzo fashions the Egg & White Pepper Crab Sandwich with a peppery crab mix inspired stuffed into fried mantou. A Beef Tart, with beef tenderloin enriched with mornay sauce and illuminated by kaffir lime, brings to mind a classic Thai curry. A more indulgent, Eastern-Chinese sensation comes via the Shanghai Braised Pork, where a sweet pork filling is made even extra-decadent with a helping of browned-butter banana jam, then sandwiched in between sheets of cashew meringue.

Rizzo pays respect to tradition by making it a point to learn how to make classic dishes the traditional way but from there isn't afraid to take things to town and make the dish her own. The Beef Salad is a great example of this. It takes after a salad of beef, liver, and herbs that Rizzo got to try at a street food tour in Chiang Mai. She interprets the idea as a two-part dish one part being a zingy mix of beef and liver, the other being a scoop of cucumber wasabi ice cream that's as cooling as it is a touch pungent. Mix everything together and you get a dynamic whole that pits together contrasting tastes, textures, and temperatures, what with the way meatiness of the beef vis-a-vis the invigorating sensation of the ice cream.

What follows is the Mrs. Saldo's signature of Thai Fish Curry, featuring sashimi-grade hamachi that they cook just a touch but make sure to retain the succulence of. It swims in a properly vibrant curry sauce that you can sop up every last bit of with the accompanying wad of banana leaf-wrapped sticky rice. A final sprinkle of rice crispies, fried shallots, and crushed crispy pork skin also add more-than-welcome textural contrast. Keeping the prior two courses company is the Beaumont “Hope Marguerite” Chenin Blanc Walker Bay, which is fruity with the apple-y profile characteristic of chenin blanc and mid-range in body—thus standing up beautifully to the dishes' spices without taking over.

Showcasing the flavors of Bali is the Indonesian Chicken Satay, with chunks of chicken breast and hearts marinated with a medley of spices and seasonings—among them, the Balinese spice paste called bumbu Bali. The skewered meat sticks rightfully deliver a spunky bite, and are served atop Shanghai-style fried rice (with salted egg as a Filipino touch) and peanut sauce for dipping. (Don't you waste a drop of that glorious sauce.) Another all-time Mrs. Saldo's signature follows: the Peranakan Lamb Curry, a colorful plate of lamb cooked low and slow in a curry sauce until fall-apart tender. Wedges of pineapple, a cucumber salad, peanuts, and butterfly pea rice bring vibrancy to the plate; go ahead and dig into them for taste and textural contrast in between forkfuls of the hearty curry. Both meaty numbers met their match in the La Freme du Mont “Jugunda” Gigondas, which offered bold, equally hearty sips and a plum-y flavor profile that concluded with a hint of spice.

Pours of the Chateau Broustet Sauternes—which was honeyed in appearance, rounded in body, and fruity-floral in personality—marked our crossover to the sweet realm. Passed around soon after were triangles of Pistachio Baklava, Rizzo’s version of which cuts the sweetness and richness with a sprinkle of pink peppercorn. Bowls of Coconut Ice Cream follow, with scoops of its namesake on honey bread, accented by kaffir caramel and jackfruit.

And while much of the meal had us touring the different parts of the continent and beyond, we’re brought back home as platters of petit fours are served. Rizzo honors her roots here with small sweet treats inspired by childhood favorites, but lets out her mischievous side with surprise twists—think white chocolate with a sheet of peach-mango leather (inspired by the fast-food pie); a White Rabbit-style pastille infused with coffee and encased in an edible wrapper; a ball of carioca given a tangy-sweet balsamic glaze (it works!); and an ube-cheese canelé topped with a santol-bagoong mix and fried curry leaves.

Asked about their growth since opening, Rizzo ponders. “As a creative yourself, you don’t stay where you are—you always evolve,” she relays. “So that’s just my way of growing, but it’s really the same gene of cooking from a space of care.” Care, in the sense of making sure whatever she serves, she values from the heart (and loves to eat, herself). This is something she puts at the forefront of everything: “More than the technique, more than the ingredients—and those are very important, dont get me wrong—but... [it's different] when you cook with love. That’s always been my compass,” she explains. “From the get-go that was my [philosophy]. A year later, it’s still the same.”

Mrs. Saldo's is at Barangay Malabag, Silang, Cavite. For more information, check out Mrs. Saldo's Bespoke Private Dining's Facebook page.

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