Hits the Spot: This Filipino Delicacy Makes a Case for the Stinky Delicious

(SPOT.ph) If you’re from Pateros or Laguna, you’ve likely heard of a rather strangely named dish: Bibingkang abnoy. We know, we know. The latter word isn’t without its problematic origins; mental health is serious business and this derogatory term has rightfully faded out of common use. But we’re here to bring to light a dish you can’t miss out on; moniker aside, this savory delicacy stars itlog na abnoy or unfertilized rotten duck eggs (!) in all their pungent glory.

With the said “abnoy” eggs (which would otherwise be thrown away, though nowadays eggs can be made to “rot” deliberately) being used to flavor an omelette-esque street food, bibingkang abnoy a nod to Filipino resourcefulness. It’s as stinky as it is (arguably) rewarding, for those who dare venture out of the familiar. And though the dish can be hard to find outside its hometown, we’ve got just the thing if you dare try it for yourself: Bibingkang Abnoy ni Kuya sa Pateros, a small shop that lets you order for delivery around the Metro.

Also read: Chef Sau's New Poblacion Spot Is a Nod to Just How Deep Filipino Food Hits

Try bibingkang abnoy from this online seller:

Stink doesn’t always a positive connotation—well, not in the realm of food. That might be nature’s way of warning us about potential poisons; no one wants to accidentally end up in the hospital. There are exceptions though, at least for those of us on the pro-stink camp. Think foods like blue cheese, durian, patis, and so on that appeal in spite of—if not primarily for—odorous nature. It’s that same sorta selling point that draws us to bibingkang abnoy, and if your resolutions list includes going out of your comfort zone this year, well, here’s one way to go about it. (Do consult a doctor if safety’s an issue; if anything, we’re still here despite having had it a couple of times in the last year.)

Bibingkang Abnoy ni Kuya sa Pateros specializes in their namesake, which they currently peddle for P140 a pop. Their recipe, they share in an exchange with SPOT.ph, differs from others in that it contains no flour or other fillers. Everything’s made to order, too, and stocks are limited every day due to the limited supply of its star ingredient.

You get a round of the bibingka covered by cling wrap, and if you book your courier in time, it should arrive hot. (Careful.) The bibingka doesn’t look particularly shocking or appalling; if anything it might remind you of frittata or torta with specks of kinchay peeking through its golden yellow surface with tapered, toasty edges. Slice inside and you’ll find a similar eggy interior, butter-like in color. It’s on the right side of firm—think of a slightly dry, roughly half-inch tall omelette.

But your nose will tell you this ain’t yo’ momma’s breakfast dish. As you should anticipate, this is stinky stuff. Eggy as it is at first bite, what unfolds as you chew is umami heaven or hell depending on how you define pleasure. Imagine the sharpness and pungency of blue cheese and patis, with a hint of earthiness like that of porcini mushrooms. Whether it’s too strong is subjective, but we say it’s just right—it’s there, alright, but it’s not too strong that it assaults the senses. There’s a hint of sweetness from onions and tomatoes, and orders come with spicy suka for dipping (do it; it’s the perfect way to balance out the abnoy egg’s vigor). Those lace-like crispy edges are also addictive as heck, adding textural contrast to the otherwise homogenous dish. Pro tip: it’s great as a quick snack, but we don’t see why you couldn’t have it with rice, sandwiched between pan de sal (with sweet chili sauce on there, insert chef’s-kiss emoji), or even cut into strips and mixed into a salad with the suka as a dressing of sorts.

The husband-and-wife owned small shop’s been around 2018, and began with the owners cooking the dish for a balikbayan cousin and posting it on social media. From there, the requests kept pouring in—rightfully so. Soon they made a Facebook page and officially took orders, and the buzz kept growing that they soon got feature inquiries from TV stations and big media companies.

Call us masochists if you will. But there’s enjoyment to be had in the delicacy’s very funk; a savory complexity that incites intrigue. That’s the very appeal of bibingkang abnoy in our book. Give it a chance.

For orders, send a message to Bibingkang Abnoy ni Kuya sa Pateros’ Facebook page. You can also contact 0947-552-0021.

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