Sampiro
G/F Escala Salcedo, L.P. Leviste Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City
Contact: 0917-100-4759
Facebook: www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090593136804
Open from 5:30 p.m. to 1:30 a.m., Monday to Saturday
(SPOT.ph) If you’ve been to the patch of greenery called Salcedo Park at the heart of Makati’s Central Business District recently, chances are you’ve come across this charming new bistro on the block. Even with the myriad of F&B options out there, it rather stands out, especially during sundown when the pink neon lights and warm white bulbs are all lit up. This is Sampiro Salcedo Park.
Also read: Best of Manila + More: 50 Great Restaurants of 2022
Come for the savory mains, stay for the drinks at this Asian bistro restaurant:
"Cafeteria, bar, panaderia," reads the lit-up text outside Sampiro. These eye-catching neon lights may give you an inkling of what’s inside, but expect the unexpected once you enter the establishment. The first thing you'll see is a stylish bar with mirrored countertops, customized liquor shelf and glassware on display, a classy floral centerpiece, and a Capiz chandelier. The same ceiling lights are present in the adjacent dining area, which flaunts eye-catching interiors. From the pink upholstered booths, to the geometric wall art, and the modern rattan sconces, almost all the furnishings and lighting fixtures are proudly locally made. Every element is quite bold on its own, but they all come together in this inviting space.
Sampiro officially opened its doors on February 27 sans fanfare, but word of mouth quickly spread about the trendy new spot in the neighborhood. This 100-seater joint becomes packed on the weekends. “There [are] so many Spanish, Italian, European, [and] Japanese concepts here. So when we were putting this up, we knew that because of our location, we said we’re in front of the park, it would be nice to have kind of like a bistro-type concept,” shared Ian Paradies, co-founder of Dark Wing Inc. (the same group behind Polilya!). “Instead of doing a traditional bistro concept, which is European-forward, we wanted something much more Asian-forward." Sampiro, he says, is best described in two words: "Asian bistro.”
Apart from the menu, what’s intriguing about the place is its name, and the story behind it is, in fact, printed on the menu’s front page. According to Paradies, “Sampiro was actually the nickname the Filipino community used to call Santuario de San Pedro area.” Back in the 1600s, the place was under the jurisdiction of Franciscan priest, Fr. Pedro de Alfaro, who was in charge of constructing the church. When Makati was established as an independent town in 1670, it was renamed San Pedro de Makati in honor of its patron saint. The locals had a more colloquial but welcoming term, Sampiro, and this establishment is an homage to the classic Manila. “We just loved that connection and the fact that it was an Old World term for the area.” This was one of the inspirations for this concept, and they also took ideas from all their travels abroad and created their own interpretation for the brand.
You’ll feel welcome in this chic bistro that features Asian flavors from cuisines across the continent: Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese, South Korean, and of course, that of the Philippines. The food here is simple and approachable, with familiar dishes like ceviche, lumpia, carpaccio, and tartare. “Everything is quite represented,” said Paradies, who also mentioned that the menu is quite seafood-heavy given the abundance of high-quality seafood in the country.
“On the menu, we’ll be using [ingredients] like black garlic [and] a lot of soy. We make our own XO sauce [and] chili sauce, so there’s a lot of Southeast Asian ingredients. But then classically, I’m trained French from San Francisco—it kind of like ties it together,” disclosed Chef Anna Bautista who has had culinary experience in California and Shanghai. “Eventually we’ll be doing like pâtés with five-spice—a little bit more French bistro—that’s kind of the direction.”
Most of the food items are good for sharing, so make sure to bring your family, friends, or even co-workers when dining here. Even your fur babies are welcome here! Paradies revealed that while many visitors come "fairly formally dressed," they surprisingly also get a lot of customers that had just finished working out or running or jogging. "They’d come here with their dogs cause we allow pets in the al-fresco area. We have dog bowls that we provide with water for the dogs. These people would hang out here in their workout clothes. Or sometimes people would be super formal also. It’s a nice mix. It’s a great neighborhood. You have the combination of the working crowd and the residential crowd—local and foreign so it’s a real nice mix and great community.”
It's best to make a reservation to get a good table, or to come early before the crowd arrives. Start with the Roasted Cauliflower Salad (P420), a mix of all things good for you. This colorful dish has a wholesome combo of leafy greens, zucchini, apple, carrots, currants, radish, pumpkin seed, whipped feta, and orange goodness—heck, it's practically an herb garden on a plate that lets you eat the rainbow.
A must-try appetizer is the Blue Fin Tuna Toasts (P580), where chunky bits of raw tuna are mixed with pimiento, capers, and doubanjiang (fermented chili bean paste) aioli. They're then wrapped with prosciutto Romancio, served on baguette slices, and finally topped with quail eggs. It’s one of those dishes that taste as good as it looks. Try to get all the components in one bite so you can see how the flavors marry well together—the contrast of the spicy fish with the salty deli meat, plus the richness of the egg, and the crunchy texture from the bread. There’s a hint of spice to liven up your taste buds, so be warned. But it’s so good you’ll be tempted to finish the whole plate on your own.
There’s also the Shrimp & Corn Lumpia (P500), which has a light seafood-tinged filling and corn kernels for bursts of sweetness. It’s good enough to eat on its own, but even better when you wrap it with the garden greens and fresh herbs on the side: basil, mint, and cilantro. Go ahead and eat with your hands—it’s more fun that way. Then take your pick from the two different dips: the sweet and creamy mango aioli or the spicy nuoc cham, a classic Vietnamese dipping sauce. Each one gives you a different flavor profile, so choose depending on your mood. Or try both in one go—we won’t judge.
A one-of-a-kind find here is the Fried “Hainanese” Chicken Crispers (P500), as it offers a twist on the famous Singaporean specialty. This addictive dish has boneless chicken chunks and oyster mushrooms fried to a crisp, which are scrumptious even without the house-made sauces. The chicken is moist and tender, the breading is well-seasoned, and the texture is spot on. You’d be tempted to eat the mushrooms like chips, but try to pace yourself so you’d have some bar chow along with your drink of choice. Dip the fried fare into the ginger scallion, chili-garlic, and sweet dark soy sauces on the side to complete the Hainanese experience. And if you're after some sort of palate cleanser, grab pieces of the pickled cucumber in between bites.
No matter what you must leave room for dessert—more specifically, the Basque Goat Cheesecake (P580). It’s a pretty plate featuring a beautiful slice of cheesecake on a bed of raspberry-Cabernet sauce reduction, garnished with fresh strawberries, honey roasted nuts, and thyme. The goat-cheese flavor here is subtle but keeps you wanting more, and the texture is smooth and rich but not too dense nor too light. All the other elements take the pleasure factor up several notches: the tartness from the fresh strawberries, the sweetness and crunch from the nuts, and the intense flavor from the red wine reduction.
The Chocolate Bar (P550) is for the dark lovers out there. This decadent treat is made with 64% Auro Chocolate mousse layered with passionfruit caramel and chocolate cake. It is then placed atop a chocolate cinnamon crumble before being garnished with torched banana slices, banana purée, and phyllo pastry triangles. The mousse itself is light while the caramel isn’t overly sticky, and even with both sweets, the dish is not cloying at all. Plus, the banana pairs beautifully with the dark chocolate when they're taken together. You can even use the phyllo pastry as a vehicle for the cake to add an element of crunch.
What’s great about Sampiro is that you can stay even after dinner, as they stock a wide assortment of libations—Engkanto craft beers, Old World and New World wines, and of course, their signature cocktails. The selection is diverse, with all major spirits represented and all served in suitable glassware. Yes, you’ll appreciate their attention to detail in all aspects, not just the dinnerware.
Once the music goes up and the lights dim down, you'll want to make sure you have a tipple by your side. Take the Rosa Salvaje (P465) for example, i.e. their version of a traditional Silver Sour. It gets its smoky flavor from the Mezcal 400 Conejos and the fresh, fruity, and floral taste from the combination of pink grapefruit liqueur, cucumber syrup, lime juice, and rose syrup. On top of it all is what they call foamee, not to be mistaken for egg whites. This is a vegan substitute that uses the protein found in egg whites. The addition of dried rosebuds complete the cocktail that’s as fragrant as potpourri, but has a mild sweet flavor profile.
Prefer a strong sip? Go for the the Assam High Ball (P325), their take on a classic highball with a twist, as it's fused with Mexican-style tamarind agua fresca. It’s a tall and refreshing drink that combines Jameson Irish whisky with lemon juice, honey syrup, soda water, and candied tamarind syrup. Pro tip: Bite off a bit of the tamarind garnish and then take a small sip before letting it all come together in your mouth for a more intense sensation.
There’s also the reimagined whisky sour that they call Sampiro Sour (380). This has a heady mix of Maker’s Mark whisky, orange juice, passion fruit, calamansi, and cinnamon syrup. It’s a pretty strong concoction with sweet and sour notes and a hint of spice. Plus, the star anise garnish adds aroma and highlights the licorice note in the cocktail.
A surprisingly easy-to-drink option is the Jasmine Teagroni (P535), which is their take on the boozy Negroni. It's more delicate and refined, and looks oh-so-elegant with lovely yellow floral garnish. This cocktail's got jasmine-infused Roku gin, vermouth, Campari, and pink grapefruit liqueur. There’s a slight bitterness from the tea, but the blend of all the other liquor makes for a refreshing beverage. Served in an old-fashioned glass, it has a big cube of ice that slowly melts away so as not to water down the drink too fast.
If you're partial to berries, then go for the Ichigo Spritz (P545)—their fruitier rendition of classic Italian amaro spritz. This tall and dark drink has strawberry-infused Amaro Montenegro, soda water, Prosecco, and real strawberries to boot. Swirl it around to make sure it’s all well combined so you can consistently enjoy every sip.
Whether you’re just by yourself or with a group, you’ll find a spot in Sampiro where you can relax and unwind after a long day. Sit by the bar and have a drink or two as you watch the bartender in action, or grab a booth with your companions and linger for after-dinner drinks—either way, you’re bound to come home satisfied.
Photos by Hans Fausto
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