Bolero
G/F Verve Tower 2, High Street South, 26th-27th Avenue, Fort Bonifacio, Bonifacio Global City
Contact: 0917-120-1228
Facebook: www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090352590598
Open from 12 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Monday and Tuesday), 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. (Wednesday to Sunday)
(SPOT.ph) Entering Bolero is like stepping into a culinary theater—the open kitchen is the stage, you can see the crew in action, the bartender is on the wings making his signature concoctions. With Chef Fernando Alcalá of Michelin-recognized Kava in Marbella, Spain behind its menu, this new dining spot brings modern European cuisine into the spotlight in a casual, relaxed setting.
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Here's the deal on Bolero, the new modern European restaurant in BGC:
The word bolero has multiple meanings. In Spain, it's a sensual dance; in the Philippines, it’s a sweet talker. This restaurant wants to be the latter. “We want a name that suggests we’re flattering you,” revealed Felipe Diaz de Miranda, a managing partner and also Bolero's architect. He's joined by managing partner Luis de Isasa in the restaurant.
Like its name, the restaurant is pretty playful with its food presentation—a clear effort to please the eyes, although this doesn't mean the dishes don't deliver in the flavor department. In fact, that's where they don't make, as Diaz de Miranda said, "bola bola.”
It’s easy to find the restaurant. It's a stone’s throw away from Bonifacio High Street. Amidst an intimate cluster of food establishments, you’ll know you’re in the right place once you spot the huge wooden door with the Bolero signage on top—shining in white bold letters with a red line across, which seems to be an effort to erase its own name. It's a bolero, it's saying, but where it counts it's not. Inside, there's a big bar area on your right with an entire wall as a liquor shelf. There's a spacious dining area. The interiors bring together lavish yet comfortable elements—marble countertops, upholstered booths, see-through metal curtains that give you a good peek at the outdoor area.
Bolero can accommodate over a hundred guests: it has indoor seating, an al fresco area, and a private space called The Backstage. “We want to show the finest Spanish dining cuisine, the finest modern European cuisine, but we want to bring it to the Philippines as a casual concept. We want to make it affordable. We want to make it easy,” shared Diaz de Miranda.
A big key to accomplish that mission is chef Fernando Alcalá, a renowned figure in Spain's culinary scene. He was named Chef Revelación 2019 at Madrid Fusión. His cheesecake was voted best in Spain the same year. He’s currently the chef at Kava restaurant in Malaga, which was highlighted in the Michelin Guide 2020 as a Bib Gourmand restaurant. This self-taught 30-something chef now spends half the year in Spain and half in the Philippines.
What to Try at Bolero
Bolero’s menu will change from time to time depending on ingredients in season. What won't change is Alcala’s strong belief in the use of local products with global techniques. Most of the ingredients the dishes use are locally sourced, except for meats—its beef is from the U.S. while its pork is from Spain.
If you happen to be in Bolero for a date and want to make a good first impression, start with the Skipjack Tuna, Ajoblanco, Grapes (P590). The description on the menu doesn’t do it justice because once you set eyes on this delicately plated dish, you’ll feel like it belongs to some white-tablecloth establishment. It features skipjack tuna grilled just enough to char the outside while leaving the inside fresh and raw. The fish is arranged over a bed of chilled almond cream speckled with infused oils. Thinly sliced grapes, fish roe, and watercress add the finishing touches. Make sure to let each slice of tuna swim in the sauce and let it absorb all the goodness before savoring it. You’ll feel like you’ve gone to heaven once all the flavors and textures of the elements mix in your mouth—grilled tuna, tart grapes, briny roe, spicy chili oil, creamy white sauce. Familiar ingredients presented in an unfamiliar way. And somehow they all work well together.
Another starter too pretty to eat is the Shrimp Tartar, Green Gazpacho (P570), which is like their version of ceviche. Note that you won’t see the marinated shrimp at first glance—to get to it, you'd have to cut through the overlay of pink and white paper-thin, crunchy radish swimming in cucumber soup that’s spattered with oils infused with basil and chili. You will be hesitant to ruin this nice work of art but it’s a necessary means to get to the good stuff: minced shrimp, cucumber, and chili. Don’t be fooled by this seemingly light and refreshing dish; the spicy oil and actual bits of chili pack quite a punch.
A menu shocker is the Pork Dumplings, Moorish Tomato Dressing (P680). Who would’ve thought this Asian staple would make it to a European restaurant’s menu? “If you check any top shelf restaurant in Spain, there's always a huge Asian influence," says Diaz de Miranda. "[This is] because [Asians] are getting all the worldwide knowledge and the techniques and the products to elevate the cuisine. So that is modern European cuisine. It’s basically using that Mediterranean base that we have and then experiment with the flavors and the techniques.”
The dumpling dish is a fine example. Imagine homemade pork dumplings in smoked spicy tomato sauce. The fatty pockets of meat complement the freshness of the sauce and its piquant aroma. You might automatically expect Asian flavors, but your senses would be confused with the blend of Moorish and Italian influences—which come from its spices and the classic combo of tomatoes and basil. It’s bewildering for the palate but it brings something new and exciting, and gourmands would appreciate this tasty treat.
One plate you likely won’t find elsewhere is the Duck Gnocchi, Satay Sauce (P1,790), a coming together of grilled duck breast, homemade gnocchi, and peanut satay sauce. The star of the show is the duck cooked like medium steak—seared outside and still pink inside. It’s neatly arranged on a liberal serving of gnocchi—a soft and chewy type of pasta made of potato dough—and this particular serving is coated with a rich and nutty sauce and infused oil. Plus points for the herb garnish that enhances its flavor and presentation. It's quite a big dish; two diners can easily split it.
If you think rice is life, then you must get the Black Creamy Rice, Squid, Charred Greens (P1,040) to share. If paella and risotto had a lovechild this would be it. The creamy rice, grilled squid, and roasted green vegetables are plated like an abstract painting. The stark contrast of the black rice to the chunks of pink seafood, green veggies, and lemon yellow zest, create a truly appetizing platter. It's so good it's worth the stain on your teeth. The flavor of the sea shines in the rice itself, and the toppings perfectly accentuate this ocean-y taste. Its creamy consistency make it rather heavy and filling—so much so that you’d be thinking of siesta soon after finishing your meal.
A complementary side—and a healthy one at that—would be the Roasted Green Vegetables, Romesco Sauce (P490). It’s a no-frills platter of grilled bok choy, broccoli, chilis, and beans, with a substantial smear of roasted tomatoes and red pepper purée. This classic condiment would pair well with any of the meats or seafood, but it also works well with the charred veggies. Mom said to eat your greens after all.
Nothing beats ending your meal on a sweet note and the Award-Winning Spain Cheesecake (P490) is the best choice in Bolero's lineup. Yup, this is the cheesecake Chef Alcala garnered recognition for in Spain. It doesn’t quite fit the mold of a traditional cheesecake—it has a runny texture. But the the taste is anything but plain—think smooth and velvety, with a subtle hint of pungency (think blue cheese), and thin buttery crust to add texture to it.
Aligned with the European lifestyle and concept, Bolero turns into a chill spot for after-dinner or late-night drinks. Some folks have been known to order the Ricotta, Green Onion Waffle (P540) as a snack or bar chow. However way you enjoy it, your palate will relish its sweet and savory combo. It’s like having chips and dip but using waffle slices and creamy ricotta cheese instead. The waffle has a hint of sweetness but is punctuated with pops of green onion to create a perfect vehicle for the mild and slightly nutty ricotta that’s seasoned and topped with lemon and mint. The simple addition of the citrus and herbs give it a fresh vibe and make it more enjoyable to munch on.
There’s also the Signature Potato Fries (P450) that would go well with just about any tipple. Expect the unexpected, as it hardly resembles the regular ones you’ll find at the usual fast-food joints. This is a leveled up version where the crispy confit potato millefeuille is generously garnished with Parmesan and fresh watercress. In layman’s terms, you’ll find layers of thinly sliced potatoes inside each potato cube with a crispy exterior. They're even made more flavorful with the grated cheese. This starchy snack could be quite filling so it would be best to share the calories with a companion.
From appetizers to desserts, and everything in between, you’ll definitely feel special and flattered in this address that disrupts the food scene with its elevated casual dining concept. With its fine food and eye-popping ambiance, Bolero is definitely not kidding around.
Photos by Hans Fausto
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