Kei Is the Wildflour Group's Foray Into Japanese Cuisine
By Chef Kei Takahashi, who's worked for Michelin-starred spots like The French Laundry.
Kei
G/F Verve Residences Tower 1, 26th Street corner 7th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City
Contact: 0917-158-3614
Instagram: www.instagram.com/keimanila
Open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. (Tuesday to Thursday); 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 12 a.m. (Friday and Saturday); 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4 to 9 p.m. (Sunday)
(SPOT.ph) The latest brand in Wildflour Hospitality Group’s more than 12 years in the industry is a venture into real-deal Japanese food—particularly rolled sushi a.k.a. maki. Kei is located at the ground floor of Verve Residences in BGC with floor to ceiling windows revealing the action inside the 24-seater restaurant.
Partnered with longtime Wildflour collaborator Lara Fernandez-Barrios of Larawan Ink for the design of Kei Maki, the space has a familiar feel similar to its Wildflour cousins with a casual but sophisticated touch. A double-height ceiling with a wooden counter that snakes around from end to end sets the stage for Chef Kei Takahashi as he rolls maki by hand or slices fresh bars of salmon and hamachi with his knife. This setup inevitably encourages interaction between chef and diner to which Takahashi at first gives a shy smile.
“People here love talking so I can’t deny that they’re enjoying,” Takahashi is soft spoken. “Sometimes it gets a little crazy and I’m focusing on cooking. But it’s fun.”
Also read:
10 Standout New Japanese Spots for A+ Sushi, Drool-Worthy Donburi + More
Iai by Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell Shows the Fruits of Their Ongoing Quest for Perfection
Kei by the Wildflour Group in BGC
Takahashi has worked with Wildflour Hospitality Group partner chef Walter Manzke 15 years ago in Los Angeles before he moved to Spain. When Wildflour opened in Manila back in 2012, Manzke asked Takahashi if he would like to help out in the kitchen. Takahashi flew to the Philippines for the first time and stayed for the restaurant’s first two weeks.
His resumé is impressive with 30 years of experience at Michelin-starred restaurants including The French Laundry (Napa Valley, California), Mélisse (Santa Monica, California) and most recently in Arzak (San Sebastián, Spain). “Last year, I had a vacation to go back to Tokyo and Allen [Buhay, Director of Operations of all restaurants of Wildflour Hospitality Group] and BJ [Mantuano, Executive Chef of all restaurants of Wildflour Hospitality Group], they were there visiting too. They called me and they told me about their plans of this restaurant, and I told them, 'Sure, why not?'” Takahashi recalls.
He’s adept at French techniques and fine dine cuisine. Admittedly, he’s only had three years experience in Japanese cuisine while at a sushi restaurant in Tokyo many years ago, but he says, “I’m really experienced in French California cuisine. And had seven years in modern Spanish cuisine. So my background is not so much Japanese, but one thing is for sure, I know Japanese flavors and what it should taste like.”
The menu at Kei Maki is concise. At the top of the menu is their speciality: maki. The rolls start with the nori sheets delicately roasted above a charcoal oven made of clay called a shichirin. He then proceeds to fill this with rice, sauce and the freshest seafood: succulent prawn, chopped salmon, chopped toro, or cubed scallops with ebiko. With one movement, he folds the nori sheet over to form a roll. “Some people are asking if I can cut this in half or in three pieces. But it’s not supposed to be cut,” Takahashi explains. The maki is intended to be held and bitten into.
For the Tasmanian Salmon Sashimi, Takahasi drizzles a sesame vinegar sauce on it and sprinkles toasted, ground sesame. The salmon’s sweet flesh has a firm bite as freshly caught fish have, but then succumbs to tenderness when it hits your tongue. A selection of small plates help complete your meal—among them are an overflowing bowl of Japanese Caesar Salad (complete with Parmigiano Reggiano and embellished with nori and panko); Japanese Tuna Tartare with caviar on top of a handsomely toasted slice of shoku pan; and the crowd pleaser—a heaping bowl of crispy, translucent rice crackers and a whipped edamame sauce.
The main wall at Kei Maki boasts of their collection of rare Japanese whisky which will definitely grab the attention of whisky connoisseurs. For those who will order sake, you will be presented with a tray of an assortment of cups to enjoy the libation in. Cocktails make use of Kei Maki’s selection of whisky; try the Sakura Manhattan—a combination of Cherry Blossom, Angostura bitters, sweet vermouth and your choice of Japanese whisky. The Mamushi Mule is a bright, fizzy concoction of Tenjaku Vodka, ginger, yuzu and lime.
What many may not know about maki, is that it’s a dish that Takahashi is accustomed to growing up in Japan. “In general, hand rolls in Japan is like a family meal. There’s a big plate of sushi rice, other plate of different fish and vegetables, then sheets of seaweed. And everyone makes their own roll,” Takahashi concludes. “Here at Kei Maki we serve simple food. Simple food can only be good if we use the best ingredients.”
Photos by Jar Concengco