GMW Lounge
Apero, Temple Drive, Quezon City
Instagram: www.instagram.com/goodmorningwines
Open from 5 p.m. to 12 a.m., Monday to Sunday
(SPOT.ph) Apero is one of those places that's quiet—a perfect fit to the sereneness of its home of Corinthian Hills, Quezon City—but the neighborhood dining spot does what they do damn well, and their pastry and brunch game is some of the best in the city. Apero shines the brightest, literally and figuratively, during the day—but now, breathing new life into their space in the later hours of the day is the GMW Lounge. Consider this an invitation to round up your constants and see the folks of Good Morning Wines pop open bottles of Japanese wines, stir up savvy cocktails, and serve small yet spirited plates brimming with reimagined Japanese flavors.
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What to Try at the GMW Lounge at Apero
The GMW Lounge, a collaboration between Apero (helmed by Chef Jacqueline Tan and Bryan and Marvin Chua), and Japanese wine purveyor Good Morning Wines (owned by partners Micah Cabral and Dimitri Roleda) that’s open from 8 p.m ‘til late from Monday to Saturday, came about given Apero co-owner Bryan Chua’s love of wine of all sorts. Apero of course, has has their French wines; Good Morning Wines, on the other hand, imports rare wines from Japan that are gradually making more appearances at restaurants in Manila. Many of these Japanese wines (especially those on Good Morning Wine’s portfolio) have lighter, more fruit-forward, refreshing profiles that feel well-suited to the Philippine weather.
A most versatile number from GMW’s lineup is the Grape Republic Rosa (P2,400/bottle)—a pet-nat rosé from Yamagata with a sprightly, sassy personality and notes of berries and citrus. It’s great on its own but develops even more personality when paired with food, especially dishes with miso or seafood that bring out the wine’s fruitiness. They’re also one of the few distributors of Japanese brand Grace Wine—consider going for a glass (or seven) of the Gris de Koshu (P600/glass, P2,400/bottle) that highlights the fresh, citrusy, peachy character of Japanese Koshu grapes; or the Yamanashi de Grace (P800/glass, P3,200/bottle) that makes a bold impact with notes of dark berries, rose, and spice.
Should cocktails be your sipper of choice, consider going for their Pineapple Pastis Fizz (P450) spiked with pastis, tequila, kuromitsu, and prosecco; or the Umeshu Noir (P450) that spotlights the Japanese plum liquor plus white rum, sherry, elderflower liquor, Intelligentsia drip coffee, and balsamic vinegar. For the non-drinker set, non-alcoholic numbers like the jasmine tea-based Salty Lemon Shiso (P350) and kuromitsu-sweetened Good Morning, Apero! (P350) have got you covered.
But it’s not just about beverages here; the lounge plays host to a standout menu of nibbles Good Morning Wines has come up with (in collaboration with chefs Jacq Tan, plus Leky Versoza and Mianne Manguiat) to match their selection of wines and libations. If you’ve been to Apero’s sister restaurant Duck & Buvette, you might recognize the way these small plates meld comfort, classic techniques (particularly drawing from French cuisine), and playful, contemporary flavor combinations—but GMW makes it their own by incorporating Japanese flavors and elements in eye-opening ways.
There’s the Beef and Mushroom Yakitori (P450) where thick, succulent ‘shroom chunks and thin strips of beef are alternated together on a skewer before they’re grilled to a smoky, uber-satisfying finish that’s way more than the sum of its parts. The Chicken Liver Toast (P350) is no drab number, being brightened by cornichons, watercress, and dots of balsamic-red wine gelee. The Potato Pavé (P395)—similar to Duck & Buvette’s dish of the classic French layered potatoes, gone Japanese with a crust of furikake—delivers buttery, nutty bites.
In the Miso French Beans (P380), GMW marries crisp, lightly battered veg with a miso brown-butter drizzle for a pop of umami in every bite. The Wagyu Curry Meatballs (P530) ooze with beef juices as you poke your fork in, its meatiness pairing perfectly with the Japanese curry sauce underneath it. Meanwhile, the flavors of the sea shine in the Seafood Risotto (P560), where a base of risotto cooked in a potent seafood stock comes brimming with toppings of shrimp, mussels, asparagus, and shelled edamame.
For dessert, don’t miss the Eton Mess (P250)—by no means any old take on the treat of British origin, what with how it combines nuggets of orange and black sesame meringue, macerated strawberries, lush vanilla cream, extra-virgin olive oil (!), and sea salt. There’s also a Yaki Imo Mont Blanc (P320) I plan to come back for, with sweet potato puree in choux pastry for a more robust take on a classic mont blanc.
Japanese wines are still very much a niche interest in Manila, but that slowly seems to be changing, thanks in no small part to the hard work of the Good Morning Wines team. And at this chic yet relaxed wine lounge, they’re made even more accessible. We’re all for the way they’re diversifying our understanding of wine’s possibilities, and giving us fresh perspectives from which to see French and Japanese cuisines while they're at it.
UPDATE (October 26, 2024, 11:35 p.m.): GMW Lounge's opening hours have changed; the article has been updated to reflect this development.