Is the Michelin Guide Coming to Manila? Here's What We've Heard

(SPOT.ph) The rumors have been simmering since late last year. “Michelin is coming!” has been whispered by acquaintances during random events and encounters, until enough of these whispers have added up to a bonafide rumor that refuses to die. There is definite buzz around the potential coming of the Michelin Guide to the Philippines, but until an official announcement from the Michelin folks is made, all we can do is speculate.

But speculation is always fun, especially in helping us understand what all the fuss is about anyway.

If you Google the words “Michelin Guide”, you will find out that it was created by the famous French tire company in 1900 as a marketing tool of sorts. They needed to encourage the French public to drive around the country at a time when cars were still a rarity. Printed with its signature red cover, these guide books included road maps, gas stations, and other pertinent automobile info, including pit stops like hotels and restaurants.

Secretive group, mysterious criteria

The Michelin Guide continued to evolve throughout the 20th century, introducing a hotel and restaurant rating system, expanding into other countries, and becoming arguably the most recognizable and respected restaurant rating system in the world.

According to its website, the Michelin Guide currently rates 30,000-plus restaurants in over 30 territories in six continents. Only the most outstanding restaurants are awarded Michelin stars, with a maximum of three for those that feature “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.” But even without those elusive stars, restaurants can still be recognized under the Bib Gourmand category for “exceptionally good food at moderate prices.” There's also the more recent Plate symbol for “simply good food,” and a Green Star for excellence in “sustainable gastronomy.” These ratings are made by a select and very secretive group of inspectors who anonymously visit the restaurants, pay for their meals, and grade their dining experiences according to a mysterious set of criteria.

With the Michelin Guide already present in neighboring countries—China, Hong Kong, Japan, Korea, Macau, Malaysia, Singapore, Taiwan, Thailand, Vietnam—isn’t it high time it comes to the Philippines? Well, the Guide could already be here, or so asserts one anonymous source who alleges the inspectors have already visited the restaurants, with an official announcement imminent.

In addition, Michelin is supposed to be in the process of setting up a local office here, according to another source. Also heard through the grapevine is that a noted food writer had been recruited to be an inspector but they turned down the offer. And yet another source contends that the Michelin folks were surprised and amazed by the quality they encountered, with a shortlist of restaurants already set to be awarded.

While none of these reports can be confirmed, they surely show the level of anticipation at the potential arrival of the Guide to our shores.

Ready for a Michelin reckoning

I can confidently say that the Philippine dining scene really does seem ripe for a Michelin reckoning. We boast a healthy and dynamic industry, with an uber-talented roster of Filipino chefs creating truly outstanding fare and who are hungry to be recognized, not just through the usual word-of-mouth or social media virality, but by an established century-old global brand like Michelin. But, is this anticipation just a lot of hoopla for nothing? What would the real impact of a Michelin Guide Philippine edition be on the local restaurant scene and the tourism industry in general?

One possible answer came to me during a recent trip to Bangkok. No, I didn’t line up for hours to get a taste of one-Michelin-starred Jay Fai’s famous crab omelette. Nor did I spend hundreds of dollars for a much coveted seat at the three-Michelin-starred Sorn. I simply ate at a handful of wonderful Thai restaurants, proudly displaying their Michelin Bib Gourmand stickers on their façades. If you search online for Bangkok restaurant picks, you’ll find the words “Michelin recommended” in many of the descriptions, an instantly recognizable symbol of excellence that these establishments are proud to promote.

According to a Bangkok Post article posted on April 6, 2023 (“Michelin Guide, TAT extend their partnership through 2026”), Michelin Guide Thailand brought in more than 842 million baht (around PhP1.455 billion) to the economy in five years’ time, with a Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) survey citing that Michelin-recommended restaurants saw a staggering increase of 30 to 40% in income. Interestingly, the article reports that the presence of the Michelin Guide in Thailand is the result of a five-year US$4.1 million (around PhP81.8 million) contract with TAT, which was renewed in 2022. This begs the question: would a similar arrangement have been made by the Michelin Guide with the Department of Tourism in the Philippines?

While we await official word from the Michelin Guide and possibly the Department of Tourism, let’s continue to enjoy these unconfirmed rumors, have fun guessing which restaurants could win a Michelin star or two (or three!), and anticipate the huge Michelin-triggered waves that could hit the local tourism and restaurant industries very soon.

Anne Marie Ozaeta is a veteran food writer and former editor of Food Magazine.