BGC's Bistrot Le Coucou Is a Relaxed Spot for Classic French Fare

Bistrot Le Coucou
2/F View Deck, One Bonifacio High Street, 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City
Instagram: www.instagram.com/lecoucou.mnl 
Open from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.

(SPOT.ph) When we think of French cuisine in Metro Manila, the first image to pop into our heads is usually fine dining. We think of white tablecloths, a stiff (if not unspoken) dress code, and a restaurant name that has you Googling how to pronounce it, just in case—something you save for a (very) special occasion once or twice a year.

This pretty picture is shattered as soon as you learn the name of the newest restaurant to open at One Bonifacio in BGC: Bistrot Le Coucou, which is indeed pronounced ku-ku, and simply means the cutesier, breezier of saying “hi” in French that’s often left out of guidebooks.

And with that same energy—as well as some expert steering from the seasoned folks behind Nikkei—Bistrot Le Coucou brings to life the more relaxed atmosphere of a classic Parisian bistro. Not the kind that tour guides shepherd foreigners into, but the sort you find in cozier, artsier neighborhoods off the tourist circuit.

“Think of them as the French equivalent of a Japanese izakaya,” explains Carlo Lorenzana of the Nikkei group, whose frequent travels to Paris hunting its best bistros were the inspiration for this new dining experience.

While white tablecloths do indeed feature in its spaces, Bistrot Le Coucou welcomes you with airy, elegant interiors and a healthy dose of sunlight through its wide windows—combined with a cozy bar, an excellent wine selection for perfect pairings, and a dedicated space for private dining, it already has the makings of a go-to for brunches, in-depth catch-ups, and more intimate treat yo’ self dinners.

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What to try at Bistrot Le Coucou at One Bonifacio High Street mall, BGC

On the menu, classic Parisian bistro hits like French onion soup, escargot, and steak frites take center stage—played relatively straight until you notice little twists that transform them, courtesy of Chef Luis Martinez of Alma and Terraza Martinez.

“You may be wondering why we have a Spanish chef cooking French food,” jokes Carlo Lorenzana, head honcho at the Nikkei group. “Chef Luis lives in Spain, and when you live in Spain, you go to France a lot and are exposed to the French way of cooking without feeling the need to follow too many rules. You can be more flexible, make it your own.”

Order a starter like the Melted Cheese (P1,450), for example, and you won’t get a classic Raclette, but a beautifully funky Beillevaire cheese flown in fresh from France, oozing out like liquid gold—perfect on top of their house sourdough bread, as well as dried figs, caramelized shallots, and roasted cashews. 

Meanwhile, the Chicken Liver Pate (P380) goes hard on richness by being first poached in red wine before being served with a gorgeous herb brown butter. If you’d like a breather before your mains arrive, the not-often-seen Paysanne Salad (P595) is pleasantly (and surprisingly) light and fresh, despite its potatoes a l’anglaise, bacon lardons, and soft-boiled quail egg.

Word of warning: you will inevitably be torn by the strong lineup of mains, which includes wonders like their Entrecote & Fries (P6,995), which features a whole kilo of ribeye (easily good for three to four) caramelized in butter and topped with Le Coucou’s take on the buttery Cafe de Paris sauce (did we mention the French fries are fried in duck confit?). For something you don’t see everyday, you could also go with their braised Pigeon (P3,900) with fresh orange carpaccio. 

However, you definitely won’t go wrong with the Duck Confit (P2,200), which is fantastically tender after 30 hours of being sous vide, and is fried for a crispy, crackly outer layer that tingles the same happiness receptors a crispy pata would. Le Coucou’s take skips the usual red wine sauce for a candied orange that takes it just a step closer to a classic duck à l'orange—a great pick for anyone who appreciates a bit of sweetness.

Be sure to save room for dessert, though. Their deep-fried Beignets with Salted Toffee (P350) are light and airy, with an addictingly buttery caramel sauce—but for some fruit in your life, the granny smith apples on their Tarte Tatin (P550) are served atop a buttery millefeuille tart.

Bistrot Le Coucou being French, your meal isn’t complete without a good glass of wine to bring out the best in your food, and you’ll find plenty to choose from in their well-stocked cellar. For a good all-rounder, the refreshing Chateau La Grave Expression Rose Bordeaux (P395/glass, P2,500/bottle) is versatile enough to go with most dishes on the menu!

With wine in your glass and good company 'round the table, it’s easy for the hours to pass at Bistrot Le Coucou without you even noticing—it has the kind of charm and ease that lets conversation flow. More importantly: when you’re after classic French bistro fare, you have a new go-to and save yourself a trip to Paris.