CAVA
Address: Circa 1900 Compound, Sanjercasville Road, Lahug, Cebu City
Contact: 0945-554-1358
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/CAVA.restolounge/
Open daily from 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.
(SPOT.ph) The place may seem familiar—not just because it is where the old restaurant Circa 1900 used to be, but because this home has been here for 120 years. Whether you've been here before or not, it's the type of place bound to stir something in your own memory. Yes, up the steps of Casa Uno, the former residence of one Dr. Castillo, is CAVA, a new dining spot in an old compound.
The team behind CAVA is the same one that masterminded CUR8—down from the menu to the interiors—but the former is an entirely different concept. Western cuisine and jazz are the focal points at this site. Think of the house's doors as a portal to another time and place. They’re open for lunch, but the place truly comes into its own at night, when your gaze is drawn in by meticulously planned lighting and you're comforted by a calm ambiance and filling food. Plus, night is when the 12 Notes speakeasy comes to life.
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Cebu restaurant CAVA tucked into a 120-year-old house
The Corn & Scallop Chowder, Ham & Tobiko (P275) is a comforting classic. The unassuming bowl is unexpectedly filling, and despite its appearance—it looks like corn puree—it’s actually pretty smooth. The meaty bites of pork and scallop are a nice savory touch that cuts into the sweetness of the soup.
The Heritage Tomato Salad, Feta, Walnut & Basil (P375) is a salad for, well, salad haters. We understand the gripe, don’t worry. This is exactly the type of plate, though, that might have you rethinking your case against the salad. There are no leafy greens here, only artfully plated three kinds of whole and chopped tomatoes with balsamic glaze and basil oil. There’s a sweetness to the dish that keeps it fresh and interesting with every bite, though you may want to ask for a little less dressing if perfectly ripe tomatoes are juicy enough for you.
There’s something familiar yet tantalizing about the sauce of the Roasted Tomato & Chorizo Chilean Mussels, Basil & Roasted Garlic (P575). The meatiness of the chorizo gives it an undertone of body and complexity, while the basil and dill, roasted garlic cloves, and edible petals add their own flavors and a delightful a visual element. This is a satisfyingly heavy appetizer that we’d gladly have as a main.
Don’t be put off by the redness of the meat of the Classic Beef Burger (P625). This smokey patty is nicely crusted on the outside and easily crumbles when you dig in. The unsung star of this dish is the tomato fondue, which gives it a tangy counterpoint to the richness of the meat. The dip with pickles and capers reminds us of a more sophisticated Thousand Island Dressing and matches well with the crisp potato wedges.
Something new to the Cebuano dining scene is the Roasted Chermoula Chicken, Bacon Crumble & Watercress (P725). Chermoula, pronounced sher-moo-la, is a sauce that comes from North African cuisine. The chicken is cooked sous vide before being roasted, a method that keeps it incredibly juicy, if a little on the pink side. It’s then topped with herbs and spices reminiscent of curry, and on top of that, panko crumbs for a bit of crunch. The latter adds such a different dimension to the dish that you won’t even look for the chicken skin. The watercress sauce tasted mostly of tamarind, adding a zesty note to the dish.
We opted for the Mango Green Tea Pop (P150), which had notes of jasmine green tea. The floral quality of the tea brought out and complimented the floral notes of the mango, and the light fizz made the drink very refreshing over all.
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Spot the 12 Notes speakeasy
Hidden behind a painting is the speakeasy 12 Notes. The intimate space is about to develop a specialized cocktail menu, but in the meantime, they serve most of the classics as well as a broad selection of wines. (The restaurant has a wine room, after all.)
Do note that they have a separate food menu and cross-ordering isn’t always allowed. We sampled their Beef Salpicao (P395) which proved to be not-your-usual. They use sirloin, so there’s a ribbon of fat that runs through some cubes. The herbaceous fragrance of the dish made us think of lechon baka minus the copious amounts of salt.
On some nights, usually Thursdays and Fridays as of writing, a jazz band complete with a singer comes to make the space even livelier. They don’t play any earlier than 9 p.m. though—the bar opens at 6 p.m.—so you can plan which vibe you want to experience accordingly. Just call ahead to reserve a table.
this strange new world.