Hapag's Pop-Up in Rockwell Is a Warm Invite Into the Filipino Home

(SPOT.ph) Is there any more endearing a display of Filipino hospitality than an invitation to eat? We all know Filipinos love food, but eating is more than just a hunger-buster in this communal society. Food also has a social function as families and friends bond over, and express their love through, edible gifts and shared meals.

ayá pays ode to this very notion, being named for the Filipino word for “invite.” Brought our way by the folks of Hapag, the ongoing pop-up in Rockwell implores you to sit back and nosh and sip on modern Filipino plates and cocktails—all best downed in the company of those you love. It’s also a preview of what’s to come as the team prepares for their big move to the area later in the year.

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Check out the ayá pop-up by Hapag in Rockwell:

It’s been a busy past couple of months for Hapag’s chefs Thirdy Dolatre and Kevin Navoa. Like many other establishments, they closed their doors as the pandemic set in, instead focusing on their delivery spinoff, dubbed Hapag Family Meal. But things have been nonstop from the degustation spot’s reopening in October of 2021. The team found themselves going back to serving their many fans who’d travel all the way to their semi-hidden space in Quezon City (away from the more stereotypical fine-dining hotspots of BGC or Makati)—and doing collaborations with the likes of Café Aurora, Modan, and Chef Miko Aspiras.

Their Quezon City location’s long held a distinct charm for its small size and out-of-way location—though their food, which takes from Filipino tradition and goes contemporary in interpretation—spoke volumes nevertheless. This is sadly closing soon—that is, to make way for the debut of Hapag’s new chapter. 

That new chapter refers to their upcoming relocation, as the homegrown spot will be moving to Rockwell as a two-storey dining spot opening toward the end of the year. Guests will be able try their tasting menu on the ground floor—and/or head up for ala-carte dranks and nibbles on the second level. ayá, which is open only until August 15, is meant to serve as a preview of the latter.

The word ayá, as mentioned, means to invite. “That was the idea behind creating this space,” says Erin Aguelas, sommelier at Hapag. “[ayá] is really meant to be inviting [and] to be welcoming.” The at-once elegant yet homey Balmori Suites in Rockwell is wonderfully apt for this; you can come donning your favorite heels, alright, but you’re welcome to sink into the cozy sofas (should you decide to dine there) and feel right at home.

Enter just about any Filipino home and you'll likely be welcomed with light bites and the classic query, kumain ka na? Echoing the phenomenon, the Hapag staff welcomes you in and hands you the menu. You'll want to start with their panimula, or small plates akin to tapas showcasing the team’s strategic, but creative, approach to food—just some of which are the crisp, crackly Gamet Kropek (P375) similar to the nori-based sort popular in Korea, but with gamet (a traditional seaweed from Ilocos Norte and Cagayan); Kilawing Baka (P795), essentially beef tartare made more Hapag with fermented mustard aioli, itlong na maalat gel, an imbaliktad sauce, and root vegetable chips; and a smoky Sugpo at Buro (P795), or grilled tiger prawns gone feisty with smoked-buro butter and Kai Farms Mexican lime.

Fun fact: ayá was also the term Dolatre and Navoa would use back in their college days whenever they’d invite each other out to drink (“O, ayá ka na!”). Which is to say, yes, you must try their tipples, which are especially harmonious with their food. Go sour with the mouth-puckering Kamias Margarita (P400) with Mezcal, or make it a date with the gin-based, tropical-tasting Guyabano Bellini (P450). The Guava Spritz (P450) can’t be missed, being both fruity and floral—and spiked with aperol that hits like a thunderbolt toward the end (happily so, though). Staying sober? Their non-alcoholic but equally fun Tanglad Dayap Soda (P200) and/or Mango Ginger Kombucha (P250) have your back.

Exclusive to the pop-up are bigger plates of heavyweight mains—which subtly remix Filipino classics the way Hapag’s known to do, but still deliver familiarity and comfort. All are meant for sharing, and go quite bold on the flavors: from the Beef Short Rib Kare-Kare (P850) of smoked short ribs in a nutty-umami cashew kare kare sauce, to Binondo Steak Fried Rice (P750) with more of that smoked short rib and house-cured lap cheong, to the Katipunan Express (P650) or grilled pork belly in a spicy tocino glaze, to the Mushroom Dinakdakan that take advantage of the “meaty” texture of local ‘shrooms care of Mouldy Blooms. (They’re also quite generous on the rice.)

Filling as the mains are, don’t forget about their panapos, or dessert, which happily incorporate savory elements in fun ways. The Banana Bread Pudding (P550), for one, comes topped with cashew-miso ice cream and patis-caramel sauce for umami contrast; there’s also the invigorating Strawberry Taho (P450) that tops an Auro white chocolate and tofu mousse with mulled wine arnibal and pickled Baguio strawberries. And for a nutty, creamy ending, make it a date with the peanut-, cacao nib-, and salted berries-topped Choc Nut (P450) ice cream.

This is but a sneak peek of what Hapag’s got coming up their sleeves—but it’s safe to say the team’s still at it with their love for local, married with their creativity and willingness to experiment. Not to mention the way they treat guests, and each other, just like family. It doesn’t get any more Filipino than that.

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