At Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez, the Chef Looks Back to His Roots

Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez
Roof Level, The Westin Manila, San Miguel Avenue corner Lourdes Drive, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City
Instagram: www.instagram.com/cantabria.manila 
Open from 6 to 10 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday

(SPOT.ph) An autonomous region located north of Spain, Cantabria is a paradise in its own right—the air is cool, the scenery captivating and, thanks to its proximity to the Bay of Biscay, seafood is abundant. It also happens to be the place Chef Chele Gonzalez calls his hometown, where he spent much of his youth.

“We [Cantabrians] have [some] of the best food in the world. We also have mountains, green pastures—that's why we call it infinite land,” says Gonzalez. With that, the celebrated chef behind Gallery by Chele, Sea.food by Chele, and Samira marries the flavors of this cherished time with his present-day creativity at Cantabria by Chele Gonzalez, his newest restaurant at The Westin Manila.

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Cantabria by Chele at The Westin Manila

Finding Cantabria doesn’t entail any flights out of the country—but it does require you ride the elevator up to the roof level (above the 31st story) of The Westin Manila in Ortigas. Brick-red walls bring warmth to the space; contrasting patterns on the floors, seats, and pillowcases keep the eyes stimulated. And right behind the couches by one side of restaurant is a cartograph of Cantabria, the region itself.

This is in large part Gonzalez’ way of injecting into the establishment an unmistakeably personal touch. “When I started this partnership with Marriott and Westin, I didn't want to have the typical Spanish restaurant,” he says in an exchange with SPOT.ph. “I think Spanish gastronomy [and] Spanish food is much more diverse [than] what the majority of people understand as tapas and paella. So I wanted to have something that is related with something inside me—I have a story to tell. This is Cantabria, where I grew up, where I started to eat.”

Not Your Typical Spanish Fare

Featuring dishes that embody the chef's personal inspirations while honoring the way Spanish cuisine “continues to evolve,” the menu at Cantabria is a showcase of contemporary bites best described as distinctly Chele, alongside textbook Spanish dishes. “Cantabria presents a unique side of Spanish cuisine and raises the bar by showcasing a blend of tradition and trends through a flavorful journey,” says Gonzalez who has installed Ivan Saiz Sordo as Chef de Cuisine in the new restaurant.

Cantabria by Chele doesn’t shy away from looking to different cuisines for inspiration. The Chili Crab Croquetas con Mayonesa de Lima take crisp-creamy Spanish croquettes out for a Southeast Asian-esque spin, while the Solomillo Iberico “Sando” gives the Japanese sandwich a luxe touch with the use of Iberico pork and a final garnish of caviar.

You’ll also see traces of Gonzalez’ personhood in dishes like the Ravioli de Carna Guisada con Espuma de Parmesano, taking after the way his mom would prepare ravioli for him growing up. “Every Saturday for lunch, my mom used to cook always ravioli or canneloni [with] different flavors.” Within each raviolo here is a filling of braised beef and porcini, and on top parmesan espuma and basil oil right as it’s served.

Seafood, Seafood, and More Seafood

Cantabria makes it a point to highlight top-quality local and imported bounties of the sea, in surprising flavor combinations. The Tiradito de Pargo gives the snapper an uplift with an avocado-lime salsa that’s bright as can be, while the Ostra de la Casa pairs Irish Galagher oysters with green apple, chives, and a zippy sherry mignonette. And in the Tartaleta de Viera, chunks of Hokkaido scallops join forces with celeriac puree and white chocolate.

Arguably, Cantabria by Chele’s pièce de résistance is the Rodaballo a la Parrilla—wild turbot imported right from Cantabria, simply grilled and carved tableside. The meat of the European flatfish is relatively mellow in taste but moist and juicy as can be, with collagen-rich nooks and crannies you’ll want to scrape every last bit off of. 

And while paella might be the first no-brainer dish to order when at a Spanish restaurant, Cantabria by Chele implores you to consider a related dish Chele considers closer to home: Arroz Negro de Viera y Chipiron—a squid-ink rice dish comparable to a creamier paella or leaner risotto, topped with scallops, baby squid, and herb aioli that glisten against the jet-black backdrop.

A Superb Iberico Steak Dish, and Dessert

Should your inner carnivore protest, you can always turn to the Presa Iberico con Patatas y Mojos—a topnotch plate that stars rich yet clean-tasting Iberico presa, plus green and red mojo sauces you can mix and match as you please. Don’t forget dessert: try the distinctly Cantabrian Sobao Pasiego, comparable to a castella-fied cheesecake served with cheese ice cream and berries coulis, or go for the all-out decadent Toffee, Cacao, Avellana y Café with the flavors of hazelnut, caramel, and chocolate.

The past couple of years have been quite the ride for Gonzalez, what with the continual birthing of his restaurants and other ventures in and around Manila, and the recent celebration of Gallery by Chele’s 10th year. Still, in opening Cantabria, the chef shows he has no intentions of forgetting his roots—and to be able to witness that for ourselves, we’re nothing but honored.

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