DEN by Nikkei Presents Vibrant New Ways to Nosh on Japanese-Peruvian Fare

DEN by Nikkei
Unit A3 & B4, Forbestown Road, Taguig
Facebook: www.facebook.com/nikkeiph
Open from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Sunday to Thursday), 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. (Friday to Saturday)

(SPOT.ph) There’s something to be said about ‘trends’ in food and dining; some ideas experience some major failure to launch, while some add-ons refuse to die out. It may be rich of us—or of restaurants and chefs—to really expect anything of diners other than to simply enjoy the food, but when it comes to certain fusions and genres, a little backstory is sometimes the key to appreciation. 

And anyway, yesterday’s trends often become today’s and tomorrow’s favorites. It’s well within living memory when sushi was a catch-all word for raw seafood, particularly that of the it-girls’-lunch variety; not too long ago, we were all a little bewildered at the number of Asian barbecue places popping up at every other street corner. These days, you’re likely to know at least a few sushi varieties or cuts of meat by name and feel, and your dining experience is all the better for it.

So it is with Nikkei, named after nikkei, referring to the very word for the food born from the Japanese diaspora into South America, particularly Peru. We've seen how the dining spot isn't just mishmashing the best ingredients from both worlds; what they offer is a ruminant, ever-evolving menu. It comes as no surprise given how the cuisine itself is still changing today, even after over a century and a half of diplomatic relations. But you’re not here for politics—you’re here for DEN by Nikkei, the restaurant group’s foray into beefier dishes and the Metro Manila nightlife.

Also read: 
Japanese-Peruvian Spot Nikkei's New Seafood Dishes Are Perfect Happy-Hour Pairings

DEN by Nikkei in Forbestown Road, Taguig

The Food

For a zingy starter, the Pulpo al Olivo (P450) is more than fitting. The refreshing medley of peppers in the chalaquita ties the tender slices—rather than whole tentacles—to a light olive sauce and the richness of avocado; it’s extra satiating with the fun crunch of the rice cracker. It’s one of those perfect examples of thoughtful fusion; octopus is a popular meat in East Asia and South America alike, with many similar executions between them, and the flavors stand out just enough to remind you that this dish wasn’t born on a singular shore.

Kare Raisu (P680) translates to curry rice in English, typically denoting a hearty plate of rice and Japanese curry with a generous pool of sauce—but DEN by Nikkei's take demonstrates a kind of richness that definitely suggests international collaboration although the combination of potato and squash with Wagyu cheek might initially give some pumpkin-spice vibes. Still, it makes sense that way; it’s a dense, comforting bowlful that’ll hit you in different places depending on the weather, but it’ll hit nonetheless. Allow your palate to slice through all that with a Sakura Negroni (P495)—the smokey and floral notes extend the life of your meal, and you’ll enjoy it way more if you’ve got the time to savor it all.

On a rainy day, we can’t recommend the seafood-centric Nikkei Yakiudon (P980) enough. Thanks to the rocoto uchucuta—typically made with mayonnaise, cream, garlic, lime and rocoto peppers, and used across a variety of dishes—the uni has something to lean on, so it doesn’t necessarily whack you in the face. There’s just enough of a balance between brine and umami to make it bright yet satisfying.

What We Recommend

If you’re looking for nigiri—and, let’s be real, who isn’t?—allow us to make the choice for you. The Carrtillero (P320) has the potential to be an instant favorite, again combining the natural, silky meatiness of salmon with a thin layer of heat from yet more uchucuta, mellowed back down by the sweetness of yellow peppers. The rice isn’t just necessary bulk here; it’s a vessel for the bite, allowing all those flavors to meld a little bit more as you chew. It’s worth taking the time to notice.

In fact, that’s sort of the unspoken theme of Den by Nikkei—where other restaurants are a quick stop for good food on the weekdays, this place invites you to slow down after clocking out. (Or, for the sneaky few, to start winding down so you can clock out a whole person.) The Spicy Tuna Tartare (P580) is not food for the fool in a hurry, as familiar as it sounds; there are little pockets of surprises here and there as you eat. Pickled cucumber and bits of orange make this feel modern but not far-fetched. Complete the experience with a classic Kyoto Mule (P490), and you’re basically recreating the best parts of summer year-round.

Scratch that, because we can’t actually let you leave without at least considering the Wagyu No Moriawase (P3880). And, we know, Wagyu again; is it losing its spark? Nikkei’s answer is, “Not if you do it right.” Not only do you get to get your hands dirty with the heated stone slab, you get the real essence of the now-ubiquitous marbled meat. A pinch of salt, some charred rosemary, and a dab of fresh butter—all in the lineup, so you don’t have to ask—and you’re set. Mostly to dream of it over the weekend, but set.

New Stories to Tell

However—yes, with a capital H—you’re going to want to keep your eye out for the upcoming burger. Den by Nikkei very graciously allowed us to try it prior to its official release, and we can tell you already: Whatever it costs, get it. The patty isn’t a monotonous mound of ground meat; it’s chunky and kind of shaggy and piecey, with more than enough fat to get both that full, salty Maillard and that juiciness we now require of an excellent burger. The black bun holds up well against all that, and not just aesthetically.

In a similar vein, DEN by Nikkei itself continues to hold up even as it changes to reflect the ongoing evolution of the cuisine to which it’s dedicated. You still get the visual cues of what you’ll probably understand as ‘zen’—charcoal hues, wood tones, and dots of Oriental styles—along with the bright and festive energy one might expect of South America. But this incarnation of Nikkei can take it from day to night with very little effort, becoming an obvious choice for the Taguig crowd, DJ included.

It makes no move to directly compete with its neighbors; they’re more than happy to overflow into one another on a good weekend. If anything, its bustling location of Forbestown Road might actually be ideal for such a cooperative rodeo, because after all, don’t all borders look a little arbitrary after a Raspberry Smash (P595) or… three?

But with all that, Den by Nikkei still manages to stand out without needing a sign spinner. It’s got a sort of gravitational pull that works when you’re in the right mood; when you’re looking for excitement, but not too much, and hoping to dip a toe in the waters of something different. The middle-ground quality of this place cannot be understated or dismissed—simply put, it’s fusion done well, from pan to patronage.

Photos by Majoy Siason

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