(SPOT.ph) Hearty, vibrant-tasting plates and a lush bohemian setting are just some of the things Mrs. Saldo’s has got going for it. And Manila’s food crowd has sure fallen in love with them, with followers driving all the way to their private-dining spot in Silang despite it being 50-plus kilometers away. Thankfully Mrs. Saldo’s occasionally holds pop-ups in the Metro: last year we saw them at Balmori Suites, Rockwell; more recently and until mid-January next year, they’re parked at the Oppein showroom in Karrivin Plaza in Makati, with old and new numbers for diners to try in a sleek and stylish setting.
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Mrs. Saldo's Oppein Showroom pop-up at Karrivin Plaza, Makati
From their lush abode in Silang, Cavite, Mrs. Saldo's has come our way and can be found at the Oppein Showroom in Karrivin Studios for lunch and dinner from Tuesdays to Sundays until January 11, 2025. Here, Rizzo gets to show a more sophisticated side to Mrs. Saldo’s as she serves old and new faves in a chic, modern space. Oppein, a.k.a. the world’s largest cabinet manufacturer, provided much of the interiors, and its dim lighting, sleek visuals, and use of marble surfaces are very much fitting with Oppein’s designer kitchen cabinets in the background. Still, Chef Rhea Rizzo shares she made it a point to add touches of decorative flowers and greenery as an ode to her Silang home.
It wasn’t too long ago that parts of their Silang outpost suffered damages in the wake of typhoon Trami. “A lot of the trees that we've had forever, especially the bigger ones, were uprooted… the smaller ones really took a beating,” Rizzo tells SPOT.ph. There was also a lot of water damage, she laments. “Unfortunately, at the very back, the retaining wall, we saw some cracks.” At the moment, these parts and others are being renovated, but they remains open for service in Silang, manned by some members of the team. Rizzo herself and the other team members are stationed in Manila for the duration of this pop-up.
Mrs. Saldo’s, as you’d know, is known for their vivid-tasting, ultimately comforting offerings that largely make use of Asian flavors and elements. And on the menu at the pop-up are some of the long-time faves you might be missing from the OG location: all-day brunch fare like the substantial Croque Madame (P650) using sourdough and the whimsical Peanut Butter & Jelly Toast (P650) complete with toffee caramel and raspberry coulis; Rizzo’s fan-fave, umami-rich Crab Dip (P795); and the always-soulful Thai Fish Curry (P1,895) accompanied by sticky rice. The Pink Lady cocktail (P550) with a tropical-tasting blend of Tarsier pink gin, pomegranate, Dionysius cherry, and lemon is as stellar sipped on at the start, middle, or end of any meal.
Especially worth checking out, however, are the newer additions to the Oppein showroom menu—many of which are inspired by Rizzo's recent travels. "Every time I go to a particular place, there's always something that... just blows you away," she tells us. "And you want to bring it back and do your own spin on it."
Especially vivid is the Tom Yum (P495) that’s as punchy in taste as it is velvety in consistency, with a prawn that’s charred while retaining a succulent bite. Though simple-sounding, the Fried Cabbage (P420) is a texture-triumphant treat of its namesake tossed with nam ma kham and fish floss for an optimum umami hit). Taking after her recent collaboration in Negros with chefs Angelo Comsti and Bettina Arguelles for Slow Food Negros is the Humba-Peanut Piaya (P350) that you can give a dunk into the accompanying Xi’an sauce before you take a bite. There are pastries gone savory, too; try the light-as-air Fried Rendang Donuts (P350) topped with yogurt mango yuzu kosho.
Once you’re ready to fill up, you can move to the mains, listed under the aptly labeled The Serious Stuff section of the menu. Should you be out on a date, go for the Apple-Soy Flank Steak (P1,395)—quite the schmexy plate inspired by a dish she had on a recent trip to Melbourne, featuring beef lent depth by teriyaki demiglace and set over anchovy puree. On the homier end of the spectrum that pays ode to the aforementioned Negros trip is the Kansi Short Ribs (P1,595), made especially homey by accompaniments of calamansi-atsuete rice and Thai chili relish that breathes vibrancy onto every forkful. And in the Barramundi. Beurre Noisette (P1,150), Rizzo—who recently flew to Paris—shows her skill in cooking continental fare with this adaptation of French sole meunière, this time using meaty barramundi bathing in rich, caper-dotted browned butter.
Mrs. Saldo's opened their original outpost in Barangay Malabag, Silang, Cavite in 2021. Behind the venture is Chef Rhea Rizzo, whose varied experiences working at notable restaurants (among them Gaggan) led to an eclectic yet cohesive menu.
Mrs. Saldo's Oppein pop-up is at L/3 Karrivin Studios, Karrivin Plaza, Pasong Tamo Extension, Makati City. For more information, check out Mrs. Saldo's Instagram page.