Los Tacos Serves Next-Level Tacos (and Then Some) at BGC Outpost

Los Tacos
Upper Ground Level, One Uptown Residences, 36th St, Taguig
Instagram: www.instagram.com/lostacosmnl
Open from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m., Monday to Sunday

(SPOT.ph) They began as a delivery-only venture during the pandemic that grew to open an extended pop-up at Magallanes and hold limited-time collaborations and other stints. The Los Tacos journey has proven to be a long and winding one—perhaps on purpose. Its quiet, steady evolution reflects patience and dedication to the genre that shines through in what we now know to be the most vital element: the tortilla.

As Chef Keith Curitana explains it, it is to Mexican cuisine what rice is to Filipinos: “You can have the best [viand] ever, but if your rice isn’t prepared right, it kind of ruins everything… whereas perfect rice can fix a mediocre meal.”  But this slice of Mexico—now almost directly across Uptown Mall—isn’t one to rely on one solid cornerstone to carry their whole menu.

True to their Instagram bio, Los Tacos often bends (or breaks, or utterly ignores) the rules to great results. Even their drinks are a cut above expectations; newbies to the beloved taco trader can grab a zesty Oaxacan Cola (P470) or any of the agua frescas to see for themselves.

Also read: 
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WATCH: Why Los Tacos in Makati Has the Best Birria Tacos

Los Tacos: Where Tradition Meets Rebellion

Do What You Like

In recent years, some of us have understandably questioned the concept of ‘authenticity’ in food. It can be really easy, from that lens, to dismiss deviations or reinterpretations as messy or marketing ploys; we have similar attitudes about other art forms, so people who take on food with deep ties to its culture of origin were never going to escape the ‘trying to be fun/deep/unique’ allegations. But Curitana cites what we think could be the closest thing to pure fascination when asked, “Why Mexican?” Moreover, the food truly does most of the explaining, even over the sounds of the molinito—their masa (corn) machine, imported from Mexico—churning out what will soon become fresh tortillas.

Both his skill and enthusiasm are evident in the swordfish Ceviche (P550), which completely bypasses the potential problems of the denser fish and leaves you only with layers of sweetness and tang.

While explicitly deviating from the birria path—there are enough contenders in that particular ring—the new Los Tacos location wasn’t about to open this new chapter without a respectful homage to an item that brought the concept, in its infancy, much success. The Lamb Birria (P1,200) doesn’t mess around, but allows you to do so; the element of assembly allows the diner to better experience the ways the mint in the jicama escabeche (lightly pickled singkamas) and the jalapeño salsa individually play off the tender, slow-cooked lamb, and how each perfectly highlights the other.

Best Paired With…

Of course, they’ve retained the Shrimp Tostada (P300) and Tuna Tostada (P350) from the original location’s menu because there was no way they could leave the bestsellers behind. And there is virtually no taco they serve that doesn’t highlight the chef’s exact point about tortillas being more than a vessel for other ingredients.

Two other great examples are the deceptively simple Charred Cabbage Taco (P400), and the rich but vibrant Lengua Taco (P500). Do not ever underestimate the impact of a well-charred vegetable, especially when there are layers of something spicy and nutty lingering just under the surface; the lengua is yieldingly tender, heightened by a cilantro purée that we thought we might want on almost everything.

The punchy heat and smokiness of the Esquites (P300) take everything an elotes lover could possibly want and then dial it up mercilessly. If you’ve ever overlooked corn in any form and for any reason, this is the dish that will make you want to atone for your sins. Put simply, it’s a good-sized bowl of ‘yes, please’ and (we feel) a must-order for every visit.

But the drinks are just as important—Butz Tenchavez of Toka Wine and resident drinks dude at Los Tacos certainly won’t hesitate to say so. While some incredible wines can make an appearance if you so wish, it’s best to note that tequilas and mezcals reign supreme here. We like the Cointreau- and lime-laced Cadillac (P550) for sipping throughout the meal, or the sprightly, unapologetic Muñequita (P500) to go with the tacos specifically.

Nuevos Horizontes

There is a mental cue that needs to be shut down when dining at Los Tacos, especially this new version; the more familiar images we might have of Mexican food don’t quite match what you get. What both the old and new offerings do reflect is the richer story; one of complex yet completely common flavors, bursts of color and aroma, and making the best of what’s available in terms of both resources and tradition.

So it’s no wonder the Spicy Margarita (P450) can play such a prominent part in one’s meal when ordered; there’s something about it that’s refreshingly Michelada-esque without the weight of beer. All the heft really comes from the food, especially in dishes like the Pato con Mole (P1,400), an all-at-once smoky, herbaceous, and indulgent medley of duck breast; a dark, rich, yet spiky mole sauce; and cilantro rice fried in duck fat. If its description on the menu isn’t argument enough, then you may not be the audience for this—which is fine, but you’d be missing out. And we mean de verdad, a lo grande.

And you might sit there with your Toasted Rice Ice Cream (P350)—think horchata but in your dreams, with a little sweet funk from the dulce de leche—thinking, “Damn, I didn’t know Mexico was that girl.” But she is, indubitably; for all the stereotypes that plague the country in mainstream media, her richness cannot be dimmed or denied, as the healthily curious like Curitana can attest.

As the chef alludes to in his comparison of their corn tortillas and Filipinos’ relationship with rice, we’re not so different. That’s not only true in terms of recent-ish (the last 500 years, if that counts) history; the eyes of the culinary world dart back and forth between the Mexican and Philippine cuisines, perhaps finally acknowledging that there is more to what we eat than what is often clumsily represented. And even if it isn’t that deep, there’s one thing they can’t deny: We sure know how to eat.

Photos by Majoy Siason

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