Brutal by Wadoughs Brings a Bold, Brutalist Twist to Comfort Cuisine

Brutal by Wadoughs
Address: 6 Sto. Tomas corner Nicanor Ramirez Street, Quezon City
Contact: 0998-575-5456
Instagram: www.instagram.com/brutalbywadoughs 
On soft opening; open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

(SPOT.ph) What’s in a name? At Brutal, it’s everything.

Deep within Quezon City, on a street teeming with the sights and sounds of everyday life, stands a raw concrete structure—unyielding and unapologetic in its presence. Brutal is the latest venture from the team behind Wadoughs, the Maginhawa-based dessert café known for its playful yet refined approach to minimalist cakes. Wado Tan Siman, founder and head chef, shares that Brutal by Wadoughs marks the cake studio’s first foray into savory cuisine, broadening its culinary scope beyond desserts.

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Brutal by Wadoughs in Quezon City

A Tension Between the Brutal and Beautiful

Upon stepping into the restaurant, one’s attention is immediately drawn to a graphic poster on the far-right wall. In bold white letters, it poses a question: Brutal or Beautiful? Brutalist architecture, which emerged in the mid-20th century, is defined by its use of exposed concrete and geometric forms—a bare, utilitarian style. These structures, often imposing in scale, prioritize functionality over ornamentation, conveying a sense of solidity and authenticity.

At Brutal, these iconic motifs come to life, taking shape in the finer details—unfinished concrete slabs, roughly textured surfaces, and a striking grayscale palette. When asked about his inspiration for the space, Siman (or Chef Wado to most) simply credits the building’s original form. From the outset, he felt drawn to its architecture and instinctively chose to preserve its defining features. “We were given a brutalist building,” he says. Reflecting on a conversation with his design team, he recalls saying, “Let’s build around it [...] to preserve the space.”

Despite the explicit application of brutalist elements, the restaurant softens its stark exterior by incorporating smooth, rounded accents into its interiors. Curved, cushioned chairs made of dark wood create a welcoming dining environment, while large floor-to-ceiling windows invite natural light, infusing the space with warmth and energy. To balance the austerity of the concrete, lush potted plants are thoughtfully placed throughout the room.

Brutal was initially just a working title for the project, but the name eventually stuck. Before embracing it in its entirety, Chef Wado hesitated, concerned it might carry a slightly negative connotation. “But then,” he shares, “I thought, when you translate it to food, it could be seen as passionate, unapologetic, straightforward.”

Siman's artistic flair is embedded in every corner of Brutal. In fact, the restaurant’s walls are adorned with photographs he took during his travels in London. A quick glance reveals a recurring subject: the Barbican Centre, an icon of brutalist architecture that he attributes to sparking his love for the movement. However, his appreciation for Brutalism reflects a deeper instinct for expression—one that extends beyond architecture and into the way he approaches food.

From Cakes to Cuisine: Chef Wado’s Culinary Shift

Before entering the industry, Chef Wado built a career in media and consultancy, refining his eye for design and storytelling. Now, that same creative sensibility naturally merges with his affinity for cuisine and flavor. Food, he says, has always been part of his family’s story: for 14 years, his parents have successfully run a Filipino restaurant, and growing up rooted in their entrepreneurial spirit, he naturally gravitated toward the food business.

The skyrocketing success of his cake studio, fueled by a few viral social media moments during the pandemic, pushed Chef Wado to explore even greater possibilities. What started as a small home kitchen operation soon grew into a thriving business, leading to the opening of Wadoughs’ first physical location in Maginhawa in 2017. “I wanted to start my own café,” he says. “That has always been the dream.” After years of steady growth, Chef Wado now moves into the next phase of his culinary career—ready to push the boundaries of his vision. “That’s how Brutal was born,” he says.

The chef's approach to the menu is simple: “I want to create comfort food that people can enjoy every day,” he says. “Nothing extraordinary—just straightforward, but good.” He honed his style and built confidence as a chef by hosting intimate dinners for family and friends. Seeing the dishes he once served at home now plated in a restaurant setting, he adds, has been an exciting experience for them.

At Brutal, the menu strikes a balance between novelty and familiarity. While Filipino favorites take center stage, the restaurant does not confine itself to a single cuisine. At its core, Brutal is an exploration of time-honored dishes from various culinary traditions. However, to distinguish their offerings from the usual suspects—such as adobo, inasal, and sinigang—Chef Wado and his team introduce playful interpretations. The Brutalist theme is subtly woven into the menu, with elements such as the reimagining of the color black (or gray) serving as a consistent visual and conceptual thread. Much like the seeming simplicity of a Brutalist structure, Brutal aims to transform something “plain” into something special.

What to Try at Brutal by Wadoughs

We see comfort and creativity come together at Brutal, what with their extensive menu with options for everyone. There’s the Cesar Salad (P390), for starters—and nope, that’s no typo. Consider it Brutal’s way of giving the classic Caesar a local twist, what with the use of smoky tinapa as a bit of an anchovy stand-in and crispy fried pan de sal in place of traditional croutons. 

Familiar as the flavors might be, Brutal finds clever ways to make comfort fare their own. From their All-Day Breakfast selection, there’s the Black Coconut Adobo (P360)—where Chef Wado and his team took a new approach to their adobo, choosing to char the coconut milk for a deeper, smokier flavor. The rich aroma of burnt coconut sauce fills the air as soon as the plate arrives on your table; in it are tender chunks of pork belly, a side of egg, and crisp, deep-fried potato wedges. Toasted coconut is then sprinkled on top for added texture and warmth.

Further serving as proof of his ability to reimagine everyday dishes is the Beef Kansi-nigang (P520). In this rendition, batwan—a small, sour fruit native to the Philippines—serves as the primary souring agent. Slow-cooked with beef shanks, it gives the broth a richer, gravy-like consistency.

Similarly, the Inasal Pork Ribs (P550) showcases his skill in adapting classic flavors. Here, the customary marination technique used for inasal chicken is applied to pork before it's cooked sous-vide for 12 hours, allowing the essence of lemongrass to fully infuse with the meat. “Most of our food is slow-cooked,” he says. “The comfort [in taste] comes from patience.” 

Chef Wado shares how his experiences with diverse cultures and cooking methods have shaped his culinary style: "Everything is heavily inspired by my travels." We see this in the Beef Rendang (P620) that highlights an Asian-inspired flavor profile and features slow-cooked beef brisket, braised until tender with roasted carrots and egg. In crafting this dish, Chef Wado recalls a memorable trip to Indonesia, where he encountered a more traditional approach to preparation and seasoning. They're not shy about taking liberties to personalize classics, as we see in the Blaksa (P320). For this distinctly Brutal-fied take on laksa, the team at Brutal prepares its own sambal using ginamos (a fermented fish sauce), then incorporates squid ink to enhance the dish’s depth and complexity—as well as to give it its namesake color.

For those seeking non-rice options, Brutal offers a selection of pasta dishes; the Salmon Cream Buro (P450) is an easy favorite, thanks to its delicate balance of creaminess and saltiness. For this dish, Chef Wado and his team ferment calamansi rind for over a month—imparting a punchy, citrusy flavor that offsets the richness of the parmesan.

The Brutalist theme carries over to the dessert and beverage menu, once again highlighting black-colored ingredients as a defining element. Standout items like the Black Sesame Cheesecake (P260/slice), Cerveza Negra Black Forest (P210/slice), Charcoal Carrot Cake (P320/slice), and Hojicha Blueberry Cheesecake (P300/slice) immediately catch the eye. Unsurprisingly, Brutal’s desserts are crafted by its sister bakery, Wadoughs—effortlessly bridging the two concepts. When it comes to dessert cocktails, the Cariño Brutal (P500) delivers a bold mix of absynthe, lemon, bitters, and blended whiskey. The Apple Pie Whiskey (P350), Tipsy Biscoff (P400), and S'mores Sour (P380) are equally great options, especially for those looking to end on a sweet note.

Brutal, Where Brutalism Meets Comfort

When asked about his vision for Brutal, Chef Wado responds without hesitation. “It’s a place where you can just sit down and chat,” he says. As a frequent diner himself, he enjoys spaces where people can linger—savoring a cup of coffee or a slice of cake in the company of good friends. “In essence,” he reflects, “I want Brutal to be the same.” With conviction, he adds, “Creating a place of comfort—this is what I hope to achieve.”

Photos by Majoy Siason

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