a mano
Unit LG22, G/F One Bonifacio High Street, Bonifacio Global City
Contact: 0917-712-9952
Facebook: www.facebook.com/amano.ph
Open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Monday to Thursday), 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (Friday to Sunday)
(SPOT.ph) Despite not being part of homegrown fare, pizza and pasta have been longtime favorites among locals and are a dime a dozen in the Metro. Amid the many fast-food chains and fine dining restaurants is a mano. Apart from being named one of the best pizzerias in the continent by online publication 50 Top Pizza, the restaurant dishes stellar eats that stay true to Italian tradition, without you having to fly a thousand miles to Italy.
Also read: These Off-Menu Dishes at a mano Are Your Cue to Go Back, Stat
Italian restaurant a mano has opened a new branch in BGC:
It stays true to its name, which translates to "handmade," as what you would get with its famed pizza and pasta dishes. “The concept is really showing fresh and faithful Italian food,” shared restaurateur Amado Fores, who also mentioned that the restaurant's lineup showcases traditional dishes from the different regions of Italy. In fact, you will even find a regional map on their menu. “We stuck to the classics and did a few things that were inspired by the things I’ve seen.”
As you'd know, a mano entered the Manila food scene with their Rockwell outpost in late 2019, but it was only able to welcome diners for about six months before the onset of the global health crisis. “If there’s one thing we did during the pandemic, [it's that] we expanded it in that regard—we added new dishes and I added a section here that sort of like an ‘Italian Living In…’” revealed Fores, who developed a passion for Italian food when he was just a kid. His travels from all over have influenced his palate, which led to this first restaurant venture.
Situated in arguably the most posh part of Bonifacio Global City, it looks perfectly at home amidst all the other mid- to high-end concepts and international brands. Stroll along the pocket garden and you’ll eventually find its façade framed by floor-to-ceiling glass windows that lets you take a peek at what’s inside. It has contemporary and stylish interiors that are highlighted by its textured walls, geometric floor patterns, crimson upholstered seats with solihiya accents, and wood slat ceiling.
At one far end, there’s a commissioned art piece that makes a good fodder for conversation. Its dining area can accommodate around 50 people, plus a few counter seats by the bar. The entire left end of the establishment acts as a showcase of sorts where the different specialties are on full display for the diners. Side by side are separate sections for pizza, pasta, the bar area, and the coffee corner. While you wait for your order, you can watch the staff prepare your food or drink and be entertained by the culinary show.
Before you dive in to its renowned pie creations, do whet your appetite first with some antipasti. The Affettati Misti (P890) offers a little bit of everything in one grazing board. It has hand-sliced salumi, green and black olives, ‘Nduja (a spicy salami spread), chunks of parmigiano-reggiano, and crostini. It's definitely good for sharing and even better with a glass of wine or two.
Relatively new on the menu is Carpaccio alla Cipriani (P870), a carefully crafted plate with a carpaccio of U.S. Angus Beef, a Cipriani sauce, button mushrooms, arugula, and extra-virgin olive oil. According to Fores, “The carpaccio is an ode to Cipriani, which is a restaurant in Venice that my mom took me to when I was younger.” The carpaccio dish is believed to have originated there and a mano’s version totally hits the spot. The thin slices of prime beef just about melt in your mouth—and as it does it fuses with the fresh and slightly bitter taste from the greens, the earthy taste of the mushrooms, and the creamy and flavorful sauce. Your taste buds are bound to rejoice with a starter as good as this.
If salad is more your thing, the Caprese (P490) would be a wise choice. Don’t be deceived by the simple combo of mozzarella di Bufala, tomatoes, and basil because it’s a different matter when you bring all the elements together in one bite. The EVOO here is served tableside, with the server pouring it from a vintage-style steel pitcher upon serving. The mozzarella slices come thick and the fresh cheese pairs well with pesto (P30 additional) for a burst of herby freshness. On the side you'll also find the Maldon salt, the famous brand of natural sea salt with an irregular yet distinctive pyramid shape. It provides a distinct, tactile experience and enhances the flavor of the dish with its clean and delicate flavor.
Something more substantial to munch on is the Cotechino Fritto (P610) or what Fores playfully refers to as Italian SPAM. In reality, this is comprised of the said Italian sausage, fried like a nugget. “I had a bigger one before in Italy with [a] sabayon, and ours we make with lemon mayonnaise,” the young gourmand reveals. The restaurant’s version is rather similar to the commercial nuggets in size and appearance, but its similarities stop there. Bite into the golden breading and you’ll come across its savory yet not too salty pork filling. Make sure to dip it in the lemon mayo for a bright and citrusy zing.
Leave space for that much-awaited taste of their pizza. The latest variant to date is Margherita Gialla (P890), a combination of yellow tomatoes, mozzarella di Bufala, basil, and EVOO. “[This] is the first one where we’re trying to do something that’s a little different. It’s classic Margherita but with yellow tomatoes,” said Fores. Aside from using mostly Italian ingredients for all its culinary creations, what makes it taste true to tradition is the fact that it’s cooked in their Valoriani oven, which is placed in full view of the dining area. This brick oven is made in Italy by the same-named family, which has over 100 years of experience in the industry. It cooks pizza in just two minutes—even better than fast food. “It’s approved by the Neapolitan Pizza Association to make true Neapolitan pizzas.”
Their pizza has a fairly thin crust that’s on the chewy side, save for the edges that are crisp and firm. Your best bet is to eat with your hands and do that folding technique where you bring the triangle edges together and form a pizza sandwich of sorts. Quickly grab a slice once it’s served hot off the oven so you get to taste the freshly baked Italian favorite at peak levels of being delish.
Another must-try variant, if you’re a fan of the creamy stuff, is the Bianca (P750), which features a rich cheese combo of ricotta, mozzarella di Bufala, and parmigiano-reggiano crema. Drizzled with EVOO on top, this white pizza is every cheese lover’s dream. Eat it as is or give it a dose of some chili honey for another flavor dimension. We prefer the latter because it adds a hint of sweetness and heat to this cream-based creation. “And one day, maybe next year, I want to shave truffles on top of it, that’s something I hope I could do next year,” Fores reveals, as they have plans of pushing for even better pizzas in line with their recently granted international award.
You can’t have pizza without pasta, so choose from its wide selection of either handmade fresh pasta or artisanal dry pasta. Since the restaurant is named such and it prides itself with their pasta creations made by hand, you must treat yourself to its Tagliatelle al Nero con Frutti Di Mare (P690), which is made with squid ink tagliatelle, a medley of seafood, toasted breadcrumbs, and EVOO. Despite its black noodles, this dish is worth the risk even if you’re having it on your first date. You’ll know why once you get a forkful of that ebony pasta with bits of shrimp, scallop, and squid. But perhaps the most important ingredient here is the toasted breadcrumbs. You'll be surprised at the subtle crunch it contributes—quite unexpected for a pasta dish, but very welcome.
An exclusive offering at the BGC branch is Tortellini alla Francese (P980), a dish that can be likened to what an Italian living in France would have. “It’s not something traditionally found in Italy but it’s still rooted and faithful to Italian influences,” discloses Fores. Here, the tortellini is stuffed with the famous French delicacy foie gras and paired with an luxe champagne truffle cream sauce. It’s the kind of dish you should have when you feel like splurging or impressing someone—definitely date-night material. The filling is buttery and delicate while the sauce is rich, somewhat nutty, and aromatic. Does it get any more indulgent than foie gras with truffle?
Should you decide to have mains instead, the Parmigiana di Melanzane (P750) or eggplant parmigiana should be your first pick. The perfectly done layers of eggplant and mozzarella di Bufala, with its crispy breading and tomato sauce with basil and EVOO, will blow you away. Really, it could almost pass for lasagna—and it satisfies without relying on meat.
On the other hand, pescetarians would appreciate the Salmone alla Livornese (P820) or Livorno-style seared salmon. Livorno is a region by the seaside so it’s naturally known for its seafood specialties. This wholesome Tuscan dish, for instance, has a cut of salmon sitting atop of a bed of tomato sauce cooked in white wine, capers, and extra-virgin olive oil. It’s beautifully garnished with a crisp sheet of salmon skin—think chicharon but with fish—and the subtle crunch gives a good contrast to the flaky flesh.
Of course, dessert is always a must and the Bomboloni (P125/piece) is a great meal-ender. Take your pick from three flavor choices of Classic, Strawberry, or Caramel. Mind you, it’s not the light and fluffy kind of doughnut. It’s on the heavy and filling side, in fact. These Italian doughnuts are filled with generous amounts of cream and coated with sugar, but even so, it doesn’t taste overly sweet. The classic is what you would expect with its subtle sweet cream; the strawberry has that hint of tartness; and the caramel has a trace of toastiness. Each has its own taste and character, but expect all to deliver a burst of creaminess with every bite.
Another option is the Focaccia di Recco con Nutella (P550), which doesn’t require any translation for those with sweet tooth. This Nutella-filled thin crust Ligurian flatbread is just like what you’d imagine. Anything with the chocolate-hazelnut spread is a sure winner, and in this case, that thing is a pie-shaped focaccia dusted with powdered sugar. It’s almost like a cracker actually. This would be a sure hit for kids—and kids at heart.
End your meal with a cup of the Caffe Latte (P190) or any of their Italian brews prepared via what is considered as the Ferrari of coffee machines, Faema E61, which is also on display at the counter in front. When you combine this mean coffee machine with their Passalacqua Arabica beans, the result is a strong Italian brew that would make you want to stay and linger, especially with that boost of caffeine.
If you want dessert and coffee all-in-one, the Tiramisu Latte (P240) is the way to go. This cold beverage is served on a tall glass that lets you see through its layers of espresso, cream, and a thick dusting of cocoa powder on top. Swirl the straw around to give it a good mix, and then relish the sweet coffee drink that'll have you smacking your lips.
The good thing about a mano BGC—apart from its famed pizza—is that it’s a great spot for a quick lunch, mid-afternoon coffee break, or even a dinner date. There's a reason Italian remains a favorite cuisine among local food lovers, and a mano does it justice.
Photos by Kai Huang
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