(SPOT.ph) Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines, is a bucket-list destination known for its verdant landscape, white-sand beaches, delicacies, and the Ivatan group’s culture. If you want to make the most out of your trip, it’s always best to come prepared. We give you a rundown of pro-tips and the best places to see, especially if you’re there for only a couple of days.
Also read: 10 Exciting Things to Do in Batanes
What to expect when going around and following your Batanes itinerary:
There are two ATMs in Basco, but just to be sure, bring enough cash to cover your projected expenses and some extra for a contingency fund. Be ready for an interrupted supply of electricity and, therefore, also Internet connectivity. But then again, you didn’t come to Batanes to stay in your hotel room with the convenience of WiFi.
Since there are a lot of places to cover and considering you have a limited amount of time, hiring the services of an accredited tour guide and a cogon-roofed tricycle to take you around the island is the most ideal. It will also help the local livelihood. And hey, who better to tell you interesting stories about a place than the locals?
The island where Basco, the provincial capital is located, is called Batan. There is usually an itinerary for a North Batan and then a South Batan tour, broken up into half-days each. But guides are pretty flexible, so if you know what you want to see and in which places you want to linger, you can have a truly unique Batanes experience.
You have surely seen all those gorgeous photos of tourists riding bicycles around Batanes. Though the province is bicycle- and motorcycle-friendly, many roads are steep and it may be challenging to actually tour the entire Batan Island powered by your legs. That said, some places rent out bicycles and motorcycles–you are required to have a valid license to drive the latter.
Your flight will most likely come in early in the morning. Most accommodations serve you breakfast, then you get a few hours to rest or promenade before your tour begins after lunch. To save you time and effort, check with the staff at your hotel if they offer tours. That way, you get a package rate to cover transportation costs, lunch, fees for the protected area management board, entrance, and services of the guide and driver.
Here are things to do in Batanes for two days:
Day 1 in North Batan
Capitol Complex and Town Plaza
Don’t be surprised if people you meet on the street greet you or smile or wave. Ivatans are very sincere and friendly. Get a taste of daily life by walking around the town plaza, where you will find a statue of Jose Rizal. Around the Provincial Capitol, you will also find a rendering in baybayin of an excerpt of Andres Bonifacio’s “Pag-Ibig sa Tinubuang Lupa”; and a monument of Kenan Aman Dangat, an Ivatan chieftain from Sabtang Island who was killed after leading the resistance against abusive Spanish colonial authorities.
On weekends and some afternoons, you may catch a basketball or baseball game being played in the area. There are also some small stores, a food truck, and a public library, aside from government offices. You won’t miss the KM 0 marker for Batanes.
If you want to sit indoors for a while, head to the nearby Batanes State College Canteen which is stocked with local and international snacks and cool drinks. They also have free WiFi and a working generator.
The BSC Canteen is located along the National Road in Basco. It is open daily from 7 a.m. to 4 a.m.
Welcome Arch
Where else to begin your tour than this symbol of the Ivatans’ warm welcome, with an uninterrupted view of the sea as a backdrop? From here, you can spot the Port of Basco and the lighthouse on Naidi Hills.
Mt. Carmel Church
Several memorable photos and even a movie were shot in this chapel on Tukon Hill. Its construction was a collaborative effort of the locals: the rocks that were used for its construction were hauled from Valugan Beach, and the artwork at the altar was made by local artists. Artisans also carved the wooden doors and made the pews in the traditional way: without the use of nails, fitting the pieces of wood snuggly like jigsaw puzzle pieces.
PAGASA Weather Station
There is a misconception that all typhoons that come into the country pass through Batanes. However, the reason that Batanes is always mentioned during weather reports is that there is a weather station here that serves as a measure and early warning device of impending weather disturbances. From this vantage point, you can get a 360-degree view around the island and see the volcano Mount Iraya and further away, the northernmost inhabited island, Itbayat.
Fundacion Pacita Nature Lodge
Located dramatically overlooking the ocean, this was the studio of renowned Ivatan artist Pacita Abad. It is now an inn with a café, where every nook and cranny is a stunning testament to the late owner’s artistry and vision. The foundation continues to support Ivatan art and cultural preservation efforts.
You can make a reservation to dine at Cafe du Tukon, which serves local as well as international cuisine from locally-sourced ingredients in a kitschy, cozy setting. Otherwise, only guests staying at the lodge can gain access to the property.
Fundacion Pacita Nature Lodge is in Barangay Chanarian, Tukon in Basco. Cafe du Tukon is open daily from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Valugan Boulder Beach
Though it can be precarious to walk on the smooth boulders and to get too close to the crashing waves, the place that is locally known as Chanpan is always picture-perfect.
Basco Cathedral
The Santo Domingo Cathedral, named after the saint whose feast is celebrated in August, is also dedicated to Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. Though the original construction was of local materials with a thatched cogon grass roof, the stone structure was built in 1795. It has been well-maintained even after damage caused by typhoons and earthquakes.
There are an astounding amount of relics of Catholic saints enshrined in the cathedral. Outside, you can see the mission bell of Basco, a gift from King Charles III of Spain that Dominican missionaries brought there in 1783.
Vayang Rolling Hills
This is a combination of pasture and agricultural lands used by local families, but the views overlooking the waters are the most amazing. From there, you can view one old Ivatan idjang (fortress) and further, adjacent islands. There is no better word to describe it than “breathtaking.” This will, however, not be the only breathtaking panoramic view you will see in Batanes.
Basco Lighthouse
End the day enjoying the way the colors are reflected on the town below from the balcony. It is airy at this height above the Naidi Hills (“na” means past and “idi” means settlement), and you can also look out at the West Philippine Sea.
Pension Ivatan Restaurant
For dinner, you can have a huge sampling of Ivatan cuisine at Pension Ivatan’s restaurant, including grilled flying fish (that are caught during the summer months), grilled squid, lunyis (salted pork cooked in lard), fiddlehead fern salad (or pako, which grows profusely in the islands), vines (dried gabi stalks), and grilled beef, accompanied with a cup of turmeric-infused rice. They also serve a wide selection of Filipino food from different regions.
Pension Ivatan Hometel and Restaurant is along the National Road, Barangay Kayvalugan, Basco.
Day 2 in South Batan
Chawa Viewdeck
At Chawa Viedwck, you can catch the symphony of colors as the first rays of sunlight touch Batan Island as well as a sweeping view of the West Philippine Sea and the Basco Lighthouse in the distance.
There are benches painted by Ivatan artists with cultural points of interest where you can chill and listen to the waves. You can also descend the 100+ steps to dip your feet in the water.
Mahatao Boat Shelter
Prior to its construction in 2005, fishermen had to bring their boats further inland to keep them safe from being swept away or damaged during strong typhoons. Carved out of the cove, this is where many boats are now docked between trips out to the open seas.
Rakuh a Payaman
Dubbed “Marlboro Country” by foreign tourists when there were more horses grazing this pasture land, you will tire of taking photos and videos from many vantage points here: whether you have the cows, the layers of undulating hills, or the Pacific Ocean as a backdrop. You will be forgiven for saying “Wow!” over and over or even breaking into song at the sight of it all.
San Carlos Borromeo Church
A National Cultural Treasure identified by the National Museum and National Commission for Culture and the Arts, its Baroque-style architecture has been well-maintained since 1873.
In front of it, you’ll see a lamphouse that was used to direct seafarers to avoid crashing into the corals.
Alapad Pass and Alapad Hills
Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, to your left, you’ll find the former U.S. Long Range Naval Station now occupied by a modest collection from the National Museum. To your right is a dramatic craggy rock formation that was captured in celluloid in the Filipino film classic Hihintayin Kita sa Langit. In between, you will be mesmerized by the crashing waves framed by the deep green of the hills, where many goats and a few carabaos roam.
Though there are many of them dotting the highways, this is one of the unique vantage points from which you can take a cool picture beside a “Blow Ur Horn” concrete sign, with the Alapad Pass behind you.
The Batanes Area Museum is in Uyugan. It is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Honesty Coffee Shop
Initiated by Lola Elena Gabilo, this formerly unnamed and unattended small structure made hot coffee and some snacks available mostly for fishermen and farmers going to or coming home from a day’s work is now made up of two structures: by the roadside, where you can have hot brewed coffee and a selection of snacks, and behind it, a souvenir shop with shirts and various trinkets. The walls are adorned with art by Ivatan artists. The idea remains the same: take whatever you want, log your purchases in a notebook, and drop your payments into marked boxes.
The Honesty Coffee Shop is along the National Road, Ivana. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
House of Dakay
The most traditional house from the early colonial era made of lime and stone with a thatched cogon roof, was constructed in 1877. It is one of only a handful of houses that survived the devastating 8.3-magnitude earthquake on September 13, 1918. The main house as well as the kitchen behind it have retained its features, save for replacing the roofs every few decades, as needed. House maintenance is funded by donations.
Old Spanish Bridge
Pass by the old Spanish bridge made of stone that is still used by pedestrians today. The experience of watching it from a distance is like traveling back in time.
San Jose de Obrero Church
The original stone church, constructed in 1795, was much more expansive, as ruins outside and behind the altar will attest.
It is unique for having the bell tower, completed in 1817, separate from the main church. This is also where Katipuneros first landed in Batanes on September 18, 1898.
Maydangeb White Beach and Huhmurun Blue Lagoon
You can end your day with a sunset swim at this beautiful cove. The fine sand is great for sunbathing and the deep blue waters are calm enough for even children to frolic.
Tolledo Souvenirs
In case you’re still looking for some souvenirs for yourself or loved ones back home, head over to this modest shop with a wide selection–from garlands of local garlic to full-sized vakul (traditional woven headgear) and baskets. Fill your bags with some bukayo (sweetened coconut strips) and polvoron with camote.
Tolledo Souvenirs is along Barsana Street, San Antonio, Basco. It is open daily from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Casa Napoli
Whether you’ve had your fill of Ivatan food or you’re craving some pizza, you’ll come out of Casa Napoli pleasantly surprised and satiated. Their pizzas have that signature thin and puffy Neapolitan crust and very authentic Italian pasta dishes like carbonara and bolognese.
Casa Napoli is along La Fuente Street, Basco. It is open daily from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
How to get there:
Philippine Airlines flies daily from Manila to Basco. Trips between Clark and Basco are also run by PAL on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. North Airways—an Ivatan-owned company—has trips from Clark to Batanes on Tuesdays and Fridays.
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