Talat Noi: The SPOT.ph Guide to Bangkok's Street Art Capital
It's also one of the capital's oldest neighborhoods.
(SPOT.ph) Thailand (formerly the kingdom of Siam) is steeped in so much history that despite the fast pace of change—especially in the capital, Bangkok, many pockets of historical value still remain. One of these is the old neighborhood of Talat Noi, which loosely translates to "small market."
Talat Noi, which is attached to the bigger Samphaeng Market, is located right next to Chinatown and terminates on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. Its rich history can be seen in the architecture, a heavy mix of Chinese and Portuguese, dating back to the late 1700s. The district, though facing the challenges of gentrification, shows a good, working example of how we can continue to honor the legacy of heritage structures while adapting some of them to contemporary living. The best way to truly appreciate it is on a walking tour or on two wheels.
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Check out these places to visit in Talat Noi, one of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods:
Wat Traimit Withayaram Worawihan
661 Charoen Krung Road
Open daily, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
This ornate Buddhist temple is home to a three-meter-high golden Buddha statue, said to be more than 700 years old.
Sieng Gong
Walk down Song Wat Road a bit, and you'll notice many ground-floor shops with used car parts piled high. Locals crowd in this stretch, which is well-known for having whatever you may need for whatever kind of motor vehicle you have. The colors and light and shadows, as well as the bustle of the industry within intricately designed houses, attract tourists too.
Heng Seng Prayer Cushion Maker
854 Soi Wanit 2
The nondescript store started by making mosquito nets then branched out to making handmade prayer cushions. When they started, this part of the district had other similar artisans. For almost a century, they have continued with this trade and are now actually the last remaining such shop here. Wimon Leangaroon and their family have branched out to making Thai sweet snacks. They offer workshops for anyone interested in learning how to make cushions or Thai treats.
Hong Sieng Kong
746 Soi Wanit 2
Open Tuesdays to Sundays, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
This heritage structure, with its high ceilings and riverside location, is a great place to spend a break from all the walking while looking out at the water. You'll be captivated by a dramatic sunset scene here. It also hosts a gallery with ever-changing collections.
Marine Department Pier Building
1278 Charoen Krung Road
Alighting here from a Chao Phraya boat is a very good idea, as when you look back at the river, you'll be struck by its beauty and grandeur. But the neo-classical riverfront pier and a huge tree that welcomes every visitor are also worth a few snaps.
Trok San Chao Rong Kueak
The dynamic and attention-grabbing street art, mostly murals, is concentrated on this street. Even before you spot them, the line of tourists (and even locals) waiting for their turn to have their photos taken will tip you off. Check out the cozy Mother Roaster Coffee Shop, a repurposed two-storey warehouse. You need to navigate around some "junk" on the ground floor, then walk up some solid wood stairs before you get to the actual cafe. Better yet, let your nose lead you by the scent of freshly ground coffee.
Chow Sue Kong Temple and Shrine
758 Phanu Rangsi Alley
Open daily, from 6 a.m. to 4 p.m.
A part of the daily life of immigrants from Hokkien, this holy place traces its roots to 1804. During weekends, you'll get a full sensory experience as the scent of joss sticks and the buzz of worshippers waft through the place.
So Heng Tai Mansion
282 Soi Wanit 2
Open Tuesdays to Sundays, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Just past the oft-photographed rusting old Fiat is the So Heng Tai Mansion. Arriving at its gate, you feel like you're entering a time-travel portal. That is, except for the more modern pool in the middle of this 18th-century courtyard. Otherwise, the ancestral home has remained faithful to the Teochew architecture. Stroll around, maybe even peeping into some of the 30 rooms, before ordering a snack. If you are inclined, you may take scuba diving lessons, too; that's what the pool is for.
The Holy Rosary/Kalawar Church
1318 Yotha Road
Open daily, from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. (except public holidays) and all day on Sundays
The massive Roman Catholic house of worship adheres to the Gothic style. The original church was built around 1786, when the Portuguese Catholics moved here from Ayutthaya, but was ravaged by fire. This present structure dates back to 1897 and is regularly maintained and supported by the local community. The Holy Masses are celebrated only in Thai and Chinese (Teochew).
The Dragon Roundabout and a Transformer
Located outside the Holy Rosary compound, this sculpture made from found objects, especially household implements and auto parts, reflects the district's unique character and artistic whimsy.
Not too far away, on Yaowarat Road, a replica of Bumblebee from the Transformers movie franchise is hard to miss. It's a relatively new attraction and was said to have been placed there to make drivers more aware of any oncoming traffic, aside from being a great way to lure tourists.
Siam Commercial Bank
1280 Yotha Road
One of the largest and certainly the oldest Thai bank, this structure dates back to 1906, and combines the Beaux-Arts and Neoclassical architectural styles. It has its pier and is even more majestic when appreciated with the breeze coming from the river. The grounds and some parts of the lobby are accessible to the public during bank operating hours.
River City
23 Soi Charoen Krung 24
Open daily, from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Even if you're taking a break from mall-hopping, you'll want to explore this riverside commercial center because, aside from the cafes and restaurants, you'll find rows of antique shops, galleries, and art shops and be able to witness different events.
Warehouse 30
48 Charoen Krung 30
Open daily, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
This complex of converted warehouses is home to artists, artisans, and entrepreneurs of every stripe. Window shopping past art galleries, boutiques, design shops, and thrift shops is a fun activity you could get lost in for hours. Then, there are cafes where you can relax after all that visual stimulation.
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Where to Eat in Talat Noi
This Talat Noi excursion could very well be a food tour aside from a photography one. There must be a good reason why crowds form at the Pet Tun Jao Thaa for the braised duck and Tue Kha Tang for stewed pork leg. Why not take your place at one of their tables to find out why?
Another option is to check out the Instagrammable cafes and tea houses in the neighborhood. It's easy just to say that places like the Photocafe & Photohostel and Citizen Tea Canteen are photo-magnets. But stay to breathe in the ambiance of these restored structures, and you'll enjoy that cup of coffee or glass of Thai tea even more. Just don't forget to take a couple of pictures before you head out the door.
How to Get to Talat Noi
By train/land: Make your way to the Hua Lamphong station.
By river: Take one of the boats serving the Chao Phraya and alight at the Si Phraya or Marine Division pier.
You can also participate in one of the bicycle or e-bike tours that usually take at least half a day around Talad Noi.
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