Steak & Frice
LG/F Central Square, 30th Street corner 5th Avenue, Bonifacio Global City
Contact: 0917-125-8188
Opening on December 28, by reservation
(SPOT.ph) We’re at an exclusive preview dinner of Amado Forés' upcoming spot Steak & Frice, opening December 28th. He whips out the menu to show us an easter egg of sorts on the last page: a list of steaks and steak-adjacents he “admires” from establishments around the world. Some are as classic as you can get, like the Steak au Poivre from Bistro Paul Bert in Paris and Beef Wellington at Gordon Ramsay Bar & Grill in London; some are more contemporary, like the Wagyu Beef Claypot Rice from Den in Tokyo. And locally, he praises Dry-Aged Porterhouse from Mamou in Manila.
Of course, it’s no surprise that Amado and his family love to eat. (How can you not, when said family includes Chef Margarita Forés of Cibo and Lusso, Malou Forés of Mamou, and Chef Raul Forés of Made Nice?) Having spent much of his life traveling and dining at the best spots everywhere, the restaurateur behind a mano and Ramen Ron would find himself drawn to classic steakhouses—the kind that have “surpassed every trend in the book.”
“All the places that really stuck to me most were like, classics… mostly steakhouse institutions,” Amado shares in an exchange with SPOT.ph. “[They] really inspired me to do our own take on [that kind of establishment].” And that take is one that pays ode to the suave allure of a classic New York steakhouse and simple elegance of Parisian bistros—but also keeps things laid-back. No stuffiness, no pretense; just great food in a great location.
Also read:
The Serious List: Your Comprehensive Guide to Steak and Where to Get It in Manila
10 Steaks in Metro Manila for Every Budget
Here’s your first look at what to expect at Steak & Frice in BGC:
As of writing, Steak & Frice has yet to reveal its final, final form as their interiors are still in progress. But things are looking promising, to say the least: dark tones sit side by side bright white walls, while straight lines and wooden elements give a relaxed feel to the space. Hanging lamps illuminate the bar at the center. Behind the design side of things is Hong Kong-based Sean Dix—no less than the brain behind the likes of Yardbird, Ronin, and New Punjab Club in Hong Kong. Which is to say you can expect even more visual hallmarks when they officially open.
Beyond looks, the foundation of any great steakhouse is, of course, the steaks. Starring as main character is the eponymous Steak & Frice: choose from the decidedly rich US Ribeye (P3,500/450 grams), the buttery S&F Wagyu Striploin (P3,900/350 grams), and the more mellow-tasting Chateaubriand (P3,700/250 grams). In traditional steakhouse fashion, you’ll be asked for your preferred doneness—our ribeye is served medium-rare, with a crusty exterior (thanks to their use of a high-pressure broiler, says Head Chef Harold Flores) that makes way for a juicy interior—as well as your sauce of choice (the selections include Peppercorn, Béarnaise, and Chimichurri).
As for the ‘Frice’ half of the name, that’s simply a play on, well, fries and rice—both of which you get on a plate. The fries + steak combo is textbook French stuff, forming the dish known as steak frites. But steak with rice is a more distinctly Filipino phenomenon—one that Amado’s family would know a thing or two about as they’d “secretly smuggle white rice” into places like Peter Luger. Steak & Frice gives you a side of steak rice—that is, Japanese rice imbued with the beef’s fat and juices, and seemingly, a good dash of soy sauce. You can go prim and proper and alternate between forkfuls of the beef, the rice, and the fries... or have them all together in one spoonful, with a generous pour of the sauce.
Elsewhere on the menu are other classics with subtle upgrades: Salted Honey Parker House Rolls (P220) with a glorious buttery crumb; Cheese Pimiento Puffs (P380), similar to gougères but closer to home thanks to the pimiento; a Bacon Steak Caesar Salad (P650) with a thick slab of the cured pork; and the Potato Soufflé (P350), essentially puffed-up potato chips kept company by a sour-cream onion dip. The Vanilla & Strawberry Millefeuille (P350) shouldn’t be missed for dessert, what with the dreamy way the crisp layers of pastry and thick, vanilla-scented cream come together.
“After opening [a mano and Ramen Ron], it's become sort of my habit to have restaurants that are kind of considered future classics—but [we] also [want to] make guests feel like they're at home,” says Amado, who still admits to being “shy” to this day (and insists on shining the spotlight on the team, not just him)—but now stands in front of everyone introducing his restaurant's dishes. The guy has no doubt come out of his shell since making his F&B debut in 2019 when he was largely an attention-averse new player. It's easy to see where the new ease springs from: his restaurants in such a short time have become embedded in the local dining life. Which only means they're on their way to becoming the restaurants he's admired: classics.
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